KAA-4 Stove Pipe

Has anyone used single wall Duravent stove pipe on their KAA-4? The stove flue outlet measures 6" on the outside and about 5.5" inside diameter. The "normal" flue adapter is designed to go inside the pipe but is 5 15/16", not 5.5". So it looks like Keystoker designed this flue outlet to flow opposite of a wood stove where the keystoker needs a pipe to go over the flue outlet since there is no issue with creosote dripping on a coal stoker. So my question is, what duravent adapter can I use to come out of the stove and into an T for clean-out? Or am I stuck with coming out of the stove with an elbow with no clean-out?

Did you try turning the tee around?

Yes, but then it would not have a place for the ash to drop into. You would have a clean out at the end of a straight pipe. Might as well use a 90 unless I'm looking at it wrong.

80% of the gain is easy access to clean the area, not necessarily an ash settling area. Ash will buildup in the flue outlet regardless.

Got it, thanks Rob. I'm looking forward to installing my new KAA-4.

nepacoal wrote:Has anyone used single wall Duravent stove pipe on their KAA-4? The stove flue outlet measures 6" on the outside and about 5.5" inside diameter. The "normal" flue adapter is designed to go inside the pipe but is 5 15/16", not 5.5". So it looks like Keystoker designed this flue outlet to flow opposite of a wood stove where the keystoker needs a pipe to go over the flue outlet since there is no issue with creosote dripping on a coal stoker. So my question is, what duravent adapter can I use to come out of the stove and into an T for clean-out? Or am I stuck with coming out of the stove with an elbow with no clean-out?

=========================================================================================

Do not use anything but the black 24 gauge stove pipe.

I bought all 24 gauge black stove pipe and fittings for my installation and its the best way
to do it.

From the flue breech I have an elbow to which is connected a short straight section
of stove pipe which is connected to a TEE with an 18 gauge stove pipe plug used for
a cleanout.

From there a short straight piece goes vertical to a second TEE
which has the automatic barometric damper.

From the top of that TEE an elbow is connected to it then it is connected to
a short straight stove pipe piece that connects to an elbow which is then connected to a
6 to 7 inch stove pipe reducer which enters the upper clay thimble. The lower clay thimble
is sealed with an 8 inch steel plug and RTV silicone to seal the lower thimble

24 gauge elbow coming off flue breech to short straight piece which connected to the TEE with a clean out
using a 18 gauge galvanized stove plug from there I used a short section 24 gauge straight stove pipe to an

All the stove pipe joints are secured with self tapping screws.

Thanks lzaharis. What brand of 24 gauge did you use? I am pretty happy with the 24 gauge Durablack I am using on my hand fired boiler.

Two ways you can do the clean out "T". One is the "drop leg" , as you're trying to do. The other is the straight on through. I've done both. The straight on through is way better.

Thanks Oliver. I actually ran across your install thread yesterday while researching this. I have admired how clean your install was even before deciding to buy the KAA-4. It's a work of art...

The best black pipe I have used was Heatfab brand. I think it was 22 gauge, and seamless.

I normally use galvanized pipe on stoker boilers.

nepacoal wrote:Thanks lzaharis. What brand of 24 gauge did you use? I am pretty happy with the 24 gauge Durablack I am using on my hand fired boiler.

Sorry nepacoal but I do not remember the brand name.
I bought it all at the HEP store in Etna, New York and the
AGWAY store in Ithaca, New York

nepacoal wrote:Thanks Oliver. I actually ran across your install thread yesterday while researching this. I have admired how clean your install was even before deciding to buy the KAA-4. It's a work of art...

Thanks....... Yes, science & art. I tried to do everything write the first time. It paid off. The system performs flawlessly. Even more so that I cleaned the water wall baffles (Very important).

Thank you all for the comments and suggestions. I opted to go with Durablack since I am happy with the 7" Durablack I used on my SF-260. For now I plan to tie in the KAA-4 in parallel with my oil boiler just like my SF-260 was, but may change it all to primary/secondary depending on how well it does next year. The SF-260 heated fine in parallel but I do get waterfall noises occasionally and know that P/S would fix all the water noise or possibly just move the pumps to the supply side to pump away.

nepacoal wrote:Thank you all for the comments and suggestions. I opted to go with Durablack since I am happy with the 7" Durablack I used on my SF-260. For now I plan to tie in the KAA-4 in parallel with my oil boiler just like my SF-260 was, but may change it all to primary/secondary depending on how well it does next year. The SF-260 heated fine in parallel but I do get waterfall noises occasionally and know that P/S would fix all the water noise or possibly just move the pumps to the supply side to pump away.

========================================================================================

Please invest in the paper back books "Pumping Away" and "Classic Hydronics" by Dan Holohan before you start hacking and whacking away at your plumbing as Dan Holohan has a world of experience in the heating field with regard to hydronics and Steam heat. He explains everything so that a lay person or a plumber can understand it and he makes sure to provide the reader with real world examples and plumbing diagrams too.
This is where the pumping away method of hydronic heating shines as he shows the reader why the circulator should be on the top of the boiler pumping away to the heating load for everyone to understand.

If you plumb them in series there is less work and you can install a single steel expansion tank of 15 gallons capacity for both units(or larger) eliminating the air scoop and automatic air vents which leak-don't ask how I know this. The steel expansion tank will not fail like a bladder tank will either- The steel expansion tank with the airtrol valve in Dan Holohans Basement has been there for over fifty years and has no moving parts or a bladder to fail- my brother just installed his second bladder tank in my fathers boiler against my advice after the bladder failed again and kept popping off the relief valve in the basement boiler. I would still have my original open to air steel expansion tank and would not have let them rip it out 33 years ago if I had known better.

Piping them in series lets you place ONE just one circulator on the top of the furthest boiler to pump away and reduce any air bubbles to near zero as the steel expansion tank removes them with the airtrol valve and the steel expansion tank adds 10 gallons of water back to the system(in my case its a total of 54 gallons) and lets you keep your pressures at 12 pounds(like mine) in my KAA-4-1 dual fuel unit.

I bought those books several years ago when I first joined the coal forum... My existing SF-260 boiler is already hooked up in parallel so I'm staying with that at first. Then after next winter I'll reevaluate and make any needed changes