Found My Project

X2 Don. Will yours be corner mounted?
(TOTP)

Will do. I noticed that the fire ring has a gap between it and the barrel. It's 1/8" in some places and as much as 5/16" in others. I don't know if the barrel is out of whack or what, but if I can't get a better fit up then that on reassembly, can I fill that gap with something? Refractory cement.

It's just where the top of the fire ring meets the barrel. It seems to me there should be a closer tolerance there in order for the secondary air to come out those holes. The barrel does have a wrinkle in one side and I was going to work that out. You can see it in the pic just below where the feed door meets the top door on the hinge side.

No corner. It would be nice but none avalable.

Yes, you will need to seal the air ring to the barrel, so the air comes out of the holes as designed. I think others here used furnace cement to do this.

Be sure to post pics here in the thread, you would be amazed what these guys can pick up from your pics that you may miss. There is literally hundreds of years of combined knowledge here on this forum.

Is there any particular bolt and nut that needs to be used with these stoves? I was just going to use grade 8 socket head cap screws with washers and regular nuts, but from what I've been reading I might need stove bolts and square nuts. Those might hard to come by around here.

fig wrote:Is there any particular bolt and nut that needs to be used with these stoves? I was just going to use grade 8 socket head cap screws with washers and regular nuts, but from what I've been reading I might need stove bolts and square nuts. Those might hard to come by around here.

Actually, you can get those very close to your home. In you mailbox even: http://www.mcmaster.com/#

fig wrote:Is there any particular bolt and nut that needs to be used with these stoves? I was just going to use grade 8 socket head cap screws with washers and regular nuts, but from what I've been reading I might need stove bolts and square nuts. Those might hard to come by around here.

Grade 8 is way overkill. Grade 2 is plenty strong enough for stoves. And if you use regular nuts and washers, you'll be retightening those about once a month.

"Stove bolts" use the sharp cornered square nuts without washers for a reason. The corners of the nut grab the cast iron and help prevent the nut from loosening with the thermal expansion/contraction the stove goes through.

Paul

Sunny Boy wrote:"Stove bolts" use the sharp cornered square nuts without washers for a reason. The corners of the nut grab the cast iron and help prevent the nut from loosening with the thermal expansion/contraction the stove goes through.

I never realized that about square nuts until you explained it. A right and wrong way to assemble.

Many years ago an old mechanic explained to me a similar thing with snap rings. The punch and die that forms them leaves a slightly rounded side and a sharp side. Position the sharp side to better resist the pressure that is put on them.

Another thing to watch for is the lower area of your barrel. When cleaning mine with a rotary wire brush on my electric drill I found several areas that had pin holes thru the metal. I bought a new barrel.

The deal with the square nuts makes sense. I was going to use the grade 8 socket head cap screws because they are free....lol. I just wasn't sure how they would hold up to the heat cool cycle since they are already pretty hard. I wonder if they will become brittle or maybe the will normalize, I don't know. I'll have to check with our heat treat guy at work.

I will certainly check out the lower part of the barrel closely. If you noticed the lower part of the barrel on my stove is pretty rusty. I think this thing must have been in someone's basement that flooded.