How to Remove Auger Pipe From Coupling to Barrel or Bin

Need some advice. I have a hole in auger pipe going from coupling to barrel. I removed the 4 set screws in coupling but I can't get pipe out, also coupling won't move, I'm hitting the coupling with a hammer and block of wood. How much abuse does the cast iron coupling take ? Do I soak it up with wd40 of beat it off

I got it off. Next question should the two auger pipes butt together inside the coupling . Or does the auger pipes just go in coupling a little past set screws, which is the best way ? Thanks

I would look at the pictorial at the top of the EFM page that has to do with the worm and pipe assemblies.
Yours is probably just corroded from coal usage.
And yes you will probably have to beat on it to separate the tubes.
I used a 2.5" sch.40 12" section of pipe and drilled and tapped 3/8" holes and added 3/8 x 1.25" bolts as set screws.
No problems with anything yet.
Just an option if you do destroy anything getting it apart.
Oh yeh the tube for the auger can be substituted with 2" sch.40 pipe.
I used stainless steel for mine.
It is only a pipe the auger rides in, the critical thing is that the pot tube and the bin tube are square to each other and with a nice smooth edge to prevent grinding of any coal.
There are tons of threads on this subject.
Happy reading and keep at it the more you work on these things the more you understand them.
Best of luck
CS

Yes keep the pipes together any gap will fill with coal as the auger passes and will grind into fines and cause other problems.
Sounds like your problem is well on the way to being fixed.
CS

C.S. is right on the money with that one! You need to do everything you can to keep the two pipes butted together while you are tightening up the coupler. If there is a gap, it will grind coal and cause fines problems.

-Don

I see you got it off but I can tell you what I do with the Van Wert, should be same or similar for the EFM.

This is for when you have coal on it. Once you have loosened the set screws use a pipe wrench to "screw" the pipe into the bin. A little bit pressure and the turning motion will allow to go in. The auger may not move, same thing with that, put a pipe wrench on it and screw it in. Once you enough clearance you can remove them, they can be reassembled with coal in the hopper/bin the same way.

Thanks for the quick response .Yes I got it off beating it with block of wood and soaking it with WD -40 .The pipe going toward barrel developed a hole on its side .The boiler was installed new just 5 years ago. I had extra piece of pipe left over from the install . The guy that did the install, did not butt the pipes together. They were in a little past the set screws on both ends. I had to get a engine cylinder Hone from a NAPA auto store and hone the inside of the coupling until it would slide over the pipes. I then used anti seize inside the coupling and did what you said to do. :Butt the pipes together: I hope it last more then 5 years .Who sells stainless steel pipe in Carbon, or Schuylkill county PA. Does EFM sell Stainless ? P.S. The guy who did the install was a EFM Dealer. Thank you gentlemen for all your help.

You will be surprised at how quiet and smooth the auger is now that you have the pipes butted together properly.

My dad has been using PVC for a bin auger pipe for the last two years. I am not sure how long it will last, but so far so good.

cardinal wrote:Who sells stainless steel pipe in Carbon, or Schuylkill county PA. Does EFM sell Stainless ?

You shouldn't have to go to that extent, my Grandmother's with steel pipe was about 45 years old. The end was corroded a little but that's it. That's a Van Wert, very similar to the EFM.

Was the hole up near the coupler?

The hole is about 7inches below the coupler going to the coal barrel, it has two holes close together . Looking at picture the end of the pipe that was inside the coupler, is on the left side of the picture. right side of picture pipe was inside barrel that's ok. The left side is also worn away. When I got the coupler off and looked inside. The fines packed so hard they coated the inside of the coupler. That is why I had to get a engine cylinder Hone to clean out the coupler so it could slide onto pipes. Do you think the fines that packed in the coupler pushed the auger flights to the side, making the holes in the pipe ?

The improper joining of the pipes inside the coupler is what ruined your pipe. It basically causes a bottle neck and creates excessive grinding downstream in the pipe.

The ends of the pipes need to be cut square to fit properly, check the pot auger pipe. You may need to clean it up with a file, or even trim off some of the old pipe to get it cleaned up.

ok thanks