Axeman Anderson

I have a extra pigtail here so I may as well use it. The original setup he had the gauge just screwed into the fitting horizontal. That monster gauge I got from eBay,i thought it was a regular 2"-3" gauge, but the picture didn't show it too well. When the package got here I opened it up and saw that giant gauge, easier to read no doubt. Thanks for that tip.

Lookin' good. Very manly!

The reason that the doghouse is 30" long is just to get the auger to near the middle of the bin.

Three questions for the experts. The top of the auger has a 90 degree or elbow to dump the coal into the fire. Inside that elbow is a ring welded and tapped for 3 screws. is there some sort of epoxy or filler in the gaps where it's not welded? Mine had crud in there and now I see light through there. Question one is was that just crud or some sort of filler? Question 2, in between the welded ring and the screwed down ring there was a gasket of sort. It looks like just thick cardboard, it mostly fell out. It either does nothing or was worn and forms a seal around the auger to stop fines from getting jammed in there? (my guess) Question 3 and final question. What type of oil goes in the little wick oiler bronze ring and what position does the bronze ring and oiler get bolted to? 12 o clock? 9 o clock? And question 4, I did say there was a question 4 didn't i? There are little barrel springs, the only things left in the coffee can. Where do they go? On the auger cover or underneath it? And last, question 5, size 41 chain? I want to replace the auger chain, the old one has 41 stamped on it, I thought 40 was the standard sizing?

Here' s a pic to get you started. Tomorrow I'll check things out for you. I'll get the chain size and oil wt too. I think it's 50 wt.

went & looked tonight. The chain is #41. 40 would be the same spacing, but differnt width. #50 oil in the wick thingy. Make sure the wick touches the inner part when assembled. (about 1/2" sticking out of the thingy) When assembled the thingy is on the bottom.

The slot you see to the left of the oil thingy looks like a window they use to tighten some set screws. Without taking it apart I do not know what's inside.

Fan bearing box: SAE #50 oil. Oil level to midway in glass window. If you don't have the glass, about 3/4" in bottom for a guess. Maybe you have a port with an overflow level.

Tramsmission: Mobil 600 W Cylinder oil. Change oil after 2 weeks and every 6 to 8 months thereafter.

The bolts go from the inside of the tube, through the barrel head and then the spring and lastly a castled nut on the outside.

My screws came as you see in the picture. I believe the springs go inside...but probably doesn't matter. The manual just says "put the bolts through the holes".

Thanks for the picture, it seems the oil thing would be at about 7 oclock if you were looking from the back? That slot is downward at 6 o clock when the auger head is on the boiler. Sure that slot has a purpose also. The springs have to go in between the head and the boiler. I just went down to the basement and looked again. If the springs were on the outside or inside they would do nothing. There is a small gap or size difference between the head and the boiler. Those springs must let it have a bit of play for when the auger is turning. Do those screws look like 5/16?
Have the fan box and gear box done already, the 50 weight in the fan box does leak out over time, as I was told down at the factory. My old manual says 90w in the gear box. Mine was clean as a whistle while the fan box oil was dirty.

mozz wrote:Three questions for the experts. The top of the auger has a 90 degree or elbow to dump the coal into the fire. Inside that elbow is a ring welded and tapped for 3 screws. is there some sort of epoxy or filler in the gaps where it's not welded?

Use black RTV and seal around the ring

mozz wrote:Question 2, in between the welded ring and the screwed down ring there was a gasket of sort. It looks like just thick cardboard, it mostly fell out. It either does nothing or was worn and forms a seal around the auger to stop fines from getting jammed in there?

The cardboard gasket is replaceable and can be ordered from the fine folks at AA, and yes it keeps the fines in the tube and out of the transfer head bearing.

mozz wrote:Question 3 and final question. What type of oil goes in the little wick oiler bronze ring and what position does the bronze ring and oiler get bolted to? 12 o clock? 9 o clock?

I remove the oiler on the transfer head bearing and install a grease fitting in place of it (orient it on top for best results). Give the transfer head a quick shot of grease every couple of months (learned this trick from one of my customers).

mozz wrote:And question 4, I did say there was a question 4 didn't i? There are little barrel springs, the only things left in the coffee can. Where do they go? On the auger cover or underneath it? And last, question 5, size 41 chain? I want to replace the auger chain, the old one has 41 stamped on it, I thought 40 was the standard sizing?

I don't use the springs (most units I get have them missing by the time I find them )Chain is size 41 as Freddy stated, you can get it from Tractor Supply or local bearing house, I would also replace the small sprocket on the gear box, local bearing house has them or order form AA.

Good learning session! Thanks Matthus, Mozz too.

Yup, 5/16" bolts. Ohhh, Ahhhhh, the springs go in betweeeeen! I'll bet for vibration/ sound control. I haven't had mine assembled yet so I don't know just how things land. Cool tip on the grease fitting. I'll bet if greased each time you emptied ashes it would last for two forevers. LOL And the giant mound of grease would snag any fines in the air, as well as flies and spiders.

Thanks to all for the answers. I think I am just about ready to fire it up this weekend.

mozz wrote:i am just about ready to fire it up

All animals in their cages! All humans on alert! BaaRooooo! BaaRooooo! Ready the matches! Fire in the hole!

The bolts are inserted from inside the tranferhead,, leaving only the head of the bolt.. the springs and castelated nut go on the outside,, this provides some 'give for the rotating auger... I just used slightly longer bolts, and double-nutted them, leaving the bolts with some give.. but my auger rotates true and straignt,, it could be bolted solid if I wanted to.

When you fire the boiler up, plan on burning the fire for an hour or so,, so you may want to plan on opening all the windows and doors,, the AA and AHS firebox needs a good, full and deep intial fire at the start... prop up the ashing lever, and pull the belt off the gearbox,, hand feed the fire through the inspection port or the transfer head... LET IT BURN for a significant time period,, in my case over an hour, but my boiler is the AA260... with a 130, maybe only an hour..

AHS spells it out very well in their latest instructions,, they say to put a large a BTU load on the system as you can,, a cold house, cold water, and use domestic hot water,, keep the fire burning untill there is no doubt that the fire is all the way across the firebox and all the way to the grate, or the layer of old ashes.. make the fire at least 1/2 the depth of the firebox...

THEN once the fire is well established, put the belt on the auger, let it feed the fresh coal, and let the ashing handle free to operate.. you will NOT see any ashes in the ash pan for a day or two. This is normal,,

Greg L.

Matthaus wrote:

mozz wrote: I don't use the springs (most units I get have them missing by the time I find them )Chain is size 41 as Freddy stated, you can get it from Tractor Supply or local bearing house, I would also replace the small sprocket on the gear box, local bearing house has them or order form AA.

Hey Matt are you sure its a #41 chain?

(Inside Joke )

Flyer5 wrote: Hey Matt are you sure its a #41 chain?

nahhhhh I think it's 35 or maybe 40????????????

Yanche
Do the companies that make the helicoids make different sizes.
I would like to know the companies that make them.