ShawnTRD wrote:Hey guys,
The company is looking to do a nyserda paid for home energy audit. I guess this includes a blower door test and thermal imaging.
The blower door test will give you an idea of the size of your air leaks, but the thermal imaging (on a cold day while you have the heat way up) will tell the tale.
The notorious spots include the top floor walls near the ceiling where it joins to the attic.
In our old farmhouse, the ceiling layer was actually part of the vented attic space due to building methods.
We extended the side wall envelop up to the roof line on the outside walls using 2" foam insulation and spray foam to seal it right up against the new insulation baffles we put on the inside of the roof, between the rafters.
Then we brought the ceiling down into that envelope using 2" foam and new quality fiberglass insulation and sealed the corners.
MOISTURE is something you always want to think about, too. Especially when re-insulating and air sealing.
For us, we added a layer of OSB on the inside of the foam and 3/4" tongue and groove pine, installed horizontally to mimic the inside of a log cabin.
Those layers combined not only provide the required fire barrier for the foam, they help equalize and manage moisture levels as we only sealed the one side of the TnG. Wood breathes. The 2" foam provides the necessary thermal break to prevent in-wall condensation in our zone.
FYI, drywall is a normal firebreak for foam, but not what we were after on the walls, though we did use it on the ceiling over the new foam, osb, adding drywall instead of TnG. Didn't want to feel like a cave, LOL.
1600sq ft avg is 40x40, about 10 sheets of 4x8 foam per wall. 40 sheets at $35/sheet = $1400. Ceiling would be 50 sheets, another $1750. So about $3k, plus whatever you want on your walls (osb, Tng, drywall, etc) and you would have the "ideal" envelope.
If you want to get into the $8k range, you could "have it all" with insulation, new interior walls, etc.
The other option, depending on the outside walls (what is the exterior- brick, siding, wood?), is less labor intensive and preserves the inside wall sizes and finishes, is to add 2" foam (or even 1-1.5" but I'd go 2 in if you plan to stay in this house) to the OUTSIDE and then add new siding- at least on the top floor.
New siding and exterior paint and weather sealing adds curb appeal and value to most homes. Downside is scaffolding or lift rental and handling.
You will still have the ceiling in the top floor to deal with and connect to the outer envelope, but depending on how your attic joins the walls, it can be done on the attic side, or better IMHO, by simply doing new ceilings. Usually minimal wiring to deal with there (no thicker outlet boxes like in the walls
Are you single floor or two?
Hope this helps. Take advantage of the mistakes I've made and the things I learned along the way. Takes the shorter road with faster returns
Our interior needed redone and "straightened" anyways....old farm houses
Good luck and let us know what you decide