AlaskaCoal1 wrote:From the title you can see I will need heat in the shop ALL winter. Plans are to keep in running until spring (Mid May) then shut down for the summer.
Interior Alaska ( can reach -30 to -40 but average is probably 0)
45 x 50 x 14 Shop
300K Sequoyah outdoor wood/coal boiler with 1 1/4 Thermopex for the supply
60-80K wood/coal stove ( only used when I am in the shop)
3x 70K hydronic heaters w/ fans -- two horizontal and one cabinet style
R 40 in walls
R 60 in ceilings
R20 in back wall (connects to unheated space in the barn... this is actually a 50x88)
Heat loss shows 120K -150K needed depending on which calculator
Very Remote so little to no help from plumber/HVAC without considerable expense
Plans are to
1)Heat the shop this year for a place to retreat during the winter and actually be able to do things outside.
2)Put a well in the shop for running water both hot and cold
3) Plumb shop on one zone so when calls for heat all heaters work
4) use 1 1/4 throughout the barn to keep the head down and the btu availability up
5) Minimize pipes as much as possible
6) Also heat hot water as a well is in the future
7) minimize the height of rise to 6 feet to keep the water from boiler one it reaches the negative pressure area. ( expect water line to be 4 feet so a 10 foot rise is a difference of 6 feet approx -2.6 this should give me fluff for a 190 degree water temp boiling based on psi.
8) mount the bottom of the heaters at about the 8 foot mark
1) Best way to plumb this-- zone valves through manifold or just push water through the heaters and thermostat the fans-- electricity is expensive here so want to balance initial cost with operating cost for a warm shop
2) are the placement of heaters correct
Just need some help on this one. I can do the work but design of plumbing not my strong suit
Thanks -- attached a diagram to help visualize
The Evergreen models are open systems.
I was going to buy the Whispering Pines model but Rick stopped selling and building them before I could buy one.
The National Plumbing Code does not allow drilled wells in buildings. You could drill the well next to the building and have it in a well pit below grade to keep it within standards.
Please buy the paper back books "Classic Hydronics" and "Pumping Away" written by Dan Holohan from either Amazon or Dan's Books.
Dan writes his plumbing books so "everyone" whether your a plumber or a home owner can understand how a heating system of any type works. He also talks about the history of heating with forced air, circulated hot water, gravity hot water heating and steam for the layman and plumbers.
His web page http://www.heatinghelp.com
is also a fountain of information for the layman and the professional that does not require a paid membership to use and learn about plumbing for heating and cooling of all kinds for homeowners and building owners.
These paper backs will help you with your heating system and design it the best way possible.