Kodiak Stoker Stove 1

 
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Rick 386
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Location: Royersford, Pa
Stoker Coal Boiler: AA 260 heating both sides of twin farmhouse
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Hyfire II w/ coaltrol in garage
Coal Size/Type: Pea in AA 260, Rice in LL Hyfire II
Other Heating: Gas fired infared at work
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Post by Rick 386 » Fri. Oct. 14, 2016 5:59 pm

Jumpmanmj wrote:Thanks so much. Mine does not have a rheostat at all it was just plugged in direct. I am so confused on how much the unit I have will heat. I cannot find any info on that. The manual does not have specs. The stove does need a few things but thats about it. Now I just have to rig something up to hold the hopper on. I broke the one bolt that holds it on. Thanks again for the reply
You can just keep it as a direct plug in. I always kept mine running at full on. That way you get a more complete burn of the coal. Then all you do is adjust the cam lobe to determine the proper amount of coal to be fed.

IIRC the old Alaska stoves had a 40,000 BTU burner in them.

Rick D.


 
Jumpmanmj
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Location: Hazleton PA

Post by Jumpmanmj » Sun. Oct. 16, 2016 7:05 pm

Great! I will just leave it plugged in. Any idea what size gasket for the doors? I have a piece of metal cut in place of the glass. I am going to use a piece of flat gasket in between the metal and door. What kind of gasket is used for the grate? Also, would the regular door gasket work for the hopper? Thanks

 
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Doby
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Posts: 477
Joined: Tue. Dec. 02, 2014 9:57 pm
Location: Elysburg PA
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Kast console and Alaska Channing III
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: oil but not much

Post by Doby » Sun. Oct. 16, 2016 9:26 pm

Your going to be best served getting the gaskets from alaska, they use different door gaskets depending on the stove for instance I have a kast console and a channing. The kast witch looks similar to yours has a 90 degree lip that sticks out from the stove body where the door closes this takes a simple 1/2" rope gasket, the channing is flat where the door closes and the gasket is much bigger and flat. Plus there gaskets have stick'um witch if everything is clean makes changing easier.

The grate gaskets are another story, the gaskets fold over the grate housing and have a crease to help fold them onto the housing then you set the grate on top of them, there is also a strong back gasket that has a piece of metal and this fits where the grate butts up to the stove housing near where the coal feeds in. This is very important to avoid a hopper fire and fumes up thru the hopper again these have stick'um to help with placement.

hope the pics help but its hard to see what I am talking about

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Pic of the kast console stove

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Kast with lip were the door closes

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channing with flat surface where door closes

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grate gaskets, upper housing gasket, lower strong back

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Last edited by Doby on Sun. Oct. 16, 2016 9:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
Jumpmanmj
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Location: Hazleton PA

Post by Jumpmanmj » Sun. Oct. 16, 2016 9:36 pm

You really gave me a lot of information. I thought I would be able to go to lowes and pick up the rope gaskets. The grate is cracked and I was trying not to replace it cause it's still together. Alaska is very close to me but are they a fortune to buy gaskets and such? I'm trying to get this thing together in a hurry to see if it heats the area I intend it to. If not I am going to sell it and purchase a larger unit. How is your kast and channing? Oh yes, I do see by the pictures what you mean.
Last edited by Jumpmanmj on Sun. Oct. 16, 2016 9:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Doby
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Posts: 477
Joined: Tue. Dec. 02, 2014 9:57 pm
Location: Elysburg PA
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Kast console and Alaska Channing III
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: oil but not much

Post by Doby » Sun. Oct. 16, 2016 9:43 pm

where is the crack in the grate? up high near the hopper would be a problem, lower on the grate might not hurt, I ran a grate with a crack low for a couple years.

Gaskets from alaska ain't all that expensive just got them last year for door and grate, grate coste about $80.00 3 years ago when I purchased one, don't remember what the gaskets cost because it was small amount

 
Jumpmanmj
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Location: Hazleton PA

Post by Jumpmanmj » Sun. Oct. 16, 2016 9:49 pm

Here is a pic of the crack.

Attachments

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Doby
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Posts: 477
Joined: Tue. Dec. 02, 2014 9:57 pm
Location: Elysburg PA
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Kast console and Alaska Channing III
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: oil but not much

Post by Doby » Sun. Oct. 16, 2016 9:59 pm

I would not run that the upper crack above the holes in the grate are the problem and could feed air back into the hopper causing a hopper fire or blow fumes thru the hopper. If the crack were low in the area of the grate holes you could get away with it. If you try it the first sign would be the fire burning to high on the grate and smell when you lift the hopper lid and maybe condensation on the lid itself
Last edited by Doby on Sun. Oct. 16, 2016 10:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.


 
Jumpmanmj
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Location: Hazleton PA

Post by Jumpmanmj » Sun. Oct. 16, 2016 10:13 pm

I had a bad feeling about that grate. Which stove do you like the channing or kast
Last edited by Jumpmanmj on Sun. Oct. 16, 2016 10:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Doby
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Posts: 477
Joined: Tue. Dec. 02, 2014 9:57 pm
Location: Elysburg PA
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Kast console and Alaska Channing III
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: oil but not much

Post by Doby » Sun. Oct. 16, 2016 10:19 pm

I just edited my above post about what to expect if you run that grate.

I like the channing both are 85000 BTU's but the channing has a duct ring cut in the top and I connect 6" stove pipe and blow the heat to upstairs when its really cold, the kast is also in the basement and used when its not bitter out to heat both floors of a 2400sq ft ranch

 
Jumpmanmj
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Location: Hazleton PA

Post by Jumpmanmj » Sun. Oct. 16, 2016 10:25 pm

Thanks for all the help. Not sure what to do with the stove. My main concern is if I will heat 2 floors. I may sell it and buy something bigger

 
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Doby
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Posts: 477
Joined: Tue. Dec. 02, 2014 9:57 pm
Location: Elysburg PA
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Kast console and Alaska Channing III
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: oil but not much

Post by Doby » Sun. Oct. 16, 2016 10:32 pm

expain your house, how old, insulation, windows ect. what other heat?

I think your stove is the older version witch was about 40,000 BTU but I would have to ask around about that

 
Jumpmanmj
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Location: Hazleton PA

Post by Jumpmanmj » Sun. Oct. 16, 2016 10:42 pm

Explain my house well that's tricky. Double home being converted to single. I'm looking to heat the whole one half with this unit. This has all new insulation. Basically all new construction. I do not want the existing gas being used on this side. This half is about 1200 sf. Yes, it has two separate furnaces. Hope that helps

 
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Doby
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Posts: 477
Joined: Tue. Dec. 02, 2014 9:57 pm
Location: Elysburg PA
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Kast console and Alaska Channing III
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: oil but not much

Post by Doby » Sun. Oct. 16, 2016 10:51 pm

I am familiar with converting 1/2 doubles into singles from all my years in home remolding, a 1200sf 1/2 double with decent insulation would not be a problem for that stove although getting heat to the upstairs would take some effort/planning. Both halfs converted to one would be a stretch

 
Jumpmanmj
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Location: Hazleton PA

Post by Jumpmanmj » Sun. Oct. 16, 2016 10:56 pm

I own my own construction company. So a went a little above and beyond. The other half I'm not concerned, it has a brand new oil burner. I would like to get the heat upstairs. I'm just not familiar at all with these stoves. I do like the channing. Would I be better investing in something newer like that?

 
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Doby
Member
Posts: 477
Joined: Tue. Dec. 02, 2014 9:57 pm
Location: Elysburg PA
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Kast console and Alaska Channing III
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: oil but not much

Post by Doby » Sun. Oct. 16, 2016 11:07 pm

Thats hard to say you maybe fine with what you have but the concern is getting the hot air up, do a forum search for something like getting the heat upstairs or similar, I have been able to do it in my ranch but had to cut 12x16 registers at various locations and I can heat 2 floors 1200sqft each with stove in the finished basement. The reason for the 2nd stove was when its single digits out I don't have to push one stove as hard plus I got a deal on the channing


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