"Daisy" Stove, NY Stove Works, Peekskill, NY

 
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FanMan
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Daisy #10
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Post by FanMan » Fri. Nov. 04, 2016 9:14 pm

Hi, new here, though I've lurked for awhile. Coming across this post on a very similar stove prompted me to post about mine:

This is a "Daisy" coal stove, around the 1920s. It's what must have been a very inexpensive stove; the main body of the stove is sheet metal (a 10" stovepipe, essentially) lined with firebrick. It was made in Peekskill, NY, about 15 miles from my cabin where I found it stored under the front porch when I first moved in, rusting away... the previous owner had removed it because her kids weren't cleaning up when they used it in the winter. I took it apart, cleaned it up, repainted it, and used it for the next 12 years, first in that cabin, then I took it along to my new cabin when we moved after 5 years.

It did a decent job heating the uninsulated 430 ft² cabin, and a great job heating just the bedroom in the new cabin (the wood stove in the living room takes care of the rest).

Image

For the past year or so I've been thinking it's time to replace the body tube as it was getting thin, but I kept putting it off... until yesterday morning when I lit a quick wood fire to take the chill off. I was treated to a light show seeing the flames flickering thorough all the pinholes. Guess I can't put it off any longer, so I pulled it outside and started taking it apart. Worse than I thought, the metal around the stovepipe attachment was pretty rotten, too... fortunately all the cast iron parts are solid.

The plan is to make a new body tube out of 24 gauge stainless steel, clean and repaint all the parts, and hopefully have it back in the cabin in a couple of weeks. I'm sure it was originally black (though I used some green when I last painted it), but some parts, the finial on top at least, were originally nickel plated. The plating was in bad enough shape that I just painted everything. This time, I'm going to keep to the green and black, if I can find green stove paint again, but I'm going to try to figure out which parts were nickel, and paint those bright silver. I'm not looking to do a perfect original restoration; I want it to look nice but it's a working stove. From pictures I've seen of similar stoves, the finial was plated, the cast piece immediately below it should be black, then the next casting (the top of the body) would be plated, the tube painted, and I'm not sure about the base or the door.

Getting all the rusty bolts out was a pain, had to grind most of them out. Not that many parts.

Image

Some 22 gauge stainless sheet, rolled and held together with Clecos, which a friend TIG welded for me, now I can cut the holes for the door and the stovepipe. I won't be able to duplicate the rolled beads in the original tube.

Image

Tonight I sandblasted all the cast parts. This weekend I'll cut the holes in the tube and get everything repainted.


 
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Sunny Boy
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Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
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Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Fri. Nov. 04, 2016 9:23 pm

Welcome FM,

Nice room heater.

Thurmalux high temp paints are what many of the stove restoration shops use, and yes they have a green high temp.

http://stovepaint.com/

Barrel came out nice. Keep us updated on the project.

Paul

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Fri. Nov. 04, 2016 9:33 pm

Nice indeed my friend! :)

 
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warminmn
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Post by warminmn » Fri. Nov. 04, 2016 9:48 pm

That style of antique stoves are about the only old ones I'd want. Nice job bringing her back! Stainless uses a little different method for paint to stick to it good, so read online about that. Keep us updated with photos when its done :)

 
ddahlgren
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Post by ddahlgren » Sat. Nov. 05, 2016 12:21 am

Not to be a downer but stainless is one of the poorer conductors of heat.

 
grumpy
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Post by grumpy » Sat. Nov. 05, 2016 12:39 am

ddahlgren wrote:Not to be a downer but stainless is one of the poorer conductors of heat.
So what, your point again ??

 
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Post by ddahlgren » Sat. Nov. 05, 2016 1:52 am

grumpy wrote:
ddahlgren wrote:Not to be a downer but stainless is one of the poorer conductors of heat.
So what, your point again ??
Point is plain mild steel will produce more heat for the heated space for the same burn rate and cost much less as well. Stainless is commonly used as a heat shield rather than a heat radiator. That is my point. 16 or 18 ga. steel will no doubt last another 85 years and deliver more heat.


 
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FanMan
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Post by FanMan » Sat. Nov. 05, 2016 8:46 am

Well, we'll just have to see. Stainless is indeed a poorer conductor but with such a thin sheet I don't think it'll matter that much. It's always been more than enough heat for the small room it's in.

The black paint I have, at least, says suitable for stainless without primer. I'm inclined to stick with black and silver but my wife liked the green I used last time.

 
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warminmn
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Post by warminmn » Sat. Nov. 05, 2016 9:17 am

You'll want to rough up the stainless a little before painting it so it will stick better. Im sure theres a chemical you could use too if your into that kind of thing. Stainless is kind of like painting a mirror as the surface is so smooth. It will heat fine.

 
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Sunny Boy
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Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Nov. 05, 2016 12:40 pm

Some of the chemical etches (called "pickling" to old timers) don't work well on some forms of stainless. And then there's the possibility of not cleaning/neutralizing the surface 100% causing risk of chemical contamination and paint adhesion/blistering.

He's got the best tool for the job of prepping stainless steel mill surface - the sand blaster. Any residual tiny sand dust down in the textured surface is inert and won't interfere with the paint. Just give the surface a quick wash with solvent and blast away. Blow the surface clean and it's ready for paint.

That's why the better auto restoration shops still use abrasive blasting as their main metal prep.

Paul

 
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FanMan
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Post by FanMan » Mon. Nov. 07, 2016 6:56 pm

Got it back together this weekend. Couldn't find the green paint locally, but I think I like it better in black and silver anyway... I'm quite pleased with the way it turned out. I used Rutland stove paint, which is quite a lot blacker than the Rustoleum high temp paint I've used before. For the silver, I used Rustoleum "high temp ultra" which, oddly, is a lot brighter than Rustoleum "high temp" (without the "ultra") that I also had some of... I used the latter for the base coats.

Image

Sorry for the poor images, I guess the cell phone camera can't handle the contrast.

Image

The firebrick lining was good to reuse... some of the pieces were cracked and chipped, but nothing some furnace cement couldn't handle. Three rows of 4" high curved bricks, each row different. All the fasteners are new stainless steel. The isinglass windows were good to reuse; I replaced them the last time around.

The shaker grate knob isn't original... the original handle or lever or whatever was missing when I first got it years ago, so I used a cast iron knob from an industrial supplier, which works quite well. Interestingly, the word "Fairy" is cast on the inside of the legs, making me wonder if they're not original.

Hopefully I'll find the time to get up to the cabin this weekend to reinstall it. Tomorrow or the next day I'll burn it in the driveway to bake off the paint fumes so I don't stink up the cabin.

 
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SawDustJack
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Post by SawDustJack » Mon. Nov. 07, 2016 7:46 pm

Looks Great!

 
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warminmn
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Post by warminmn » Mon. Nov. 07, 2016 8:56 pm

It looks very nice!

 
coalfan
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Post by coalfan » Mon. Nov. 07, 2016 8:57 pm

nice job enjoy !!

 
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Sunny Boy
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Location: Central NY
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
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Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace

Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Nov. 07, 2016 11:57 pm

looking good ! ;)

Paul


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