EFM 700 Rebuild
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- New Member
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- Location: Tower City
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1966 EFM 700
Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum, I've been reading in here for about 6 months learning about my efm 700. I purchased a house in April of this year and the boiler came with the house for heat and DHW. Though a very nice piece of equipment that I love, it was subject to years if neglect by being placed directly under a leaking porch. This recently fried my timer and one of my switching relays. Upon replacing the timer I decided to move my furnace to the other side if my basement where it would be underneath my kitchen opposed to sitting outside. This would proctect it from my leaking porch and eliminate the 12 feet (yes 12 feet) of horizontaly run chimeny pipe. As I was disassembling the furnace I found the entire back of the base is rotted out as well as the section under the grates in the back. My question is, im highly experienced in me total fabrication and I would love to rebuild this animal. I have more than enough stainless steel of various thicknesses to choose from. Other than weight, is there any disadvantages of using stainless to build an entirely new base for it? I have no problem putting money into it as the DHW coil has no leaks and for the most part it is a very effective unit. I'm open to any suggestions, thank you all in advance.
- Scottscoaled
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- Location: Malta N.Y.
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520, 700, Van Wert 800 GJ 61,53
- Baseburners & Antiques: Magic Stewart 16, times 2!
- Coal Size/Type: Lots of buck
- Other Heating: Slant Fin electric boiler backup
You would be light years ahead if you were to fabricate a new 700 base out of stainless! I would advise including a removeable clean out in either side or rear of the flyash chamber to make an easier /more frequent cleaning possible. Good luck in the restore. No one has done one yet.
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1966 EFM 700
Thanks to the both of you for the speedy replies! Cost shouldn't be terrible as I have most if the stainless I'll need now. I'm about halfway into my project. Spent all day yesterday wiring my new controls as I waited for my concrete pad to dry up. As far as the base rebuild goes, my only concern is removing the boiler from the base. I don't have much head room to play with for removed. Any suggestions?
- Rob R.
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You don't need to lift the boiler much - about 1" should be enough to clear the edge of the base. If there isn't room over the boiler for a chain hoist or something similar, you might have to just use a big prybar to lift the boiler up off the base - put blocks between the boiler and base until you've lifted it a few inches, then get creative.
- Scottscoaled
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- Posts: 2812
- Joined: Tue. Jan. 08, 2008 9:51 pm
- Location: Malta N.Y.
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520, 700, Van Wert 800 GJ 61,53
- Baseburners & Antiques: Magic Stewart 16, times 2!
- Coal Size/Type: Lots of buck
- Other Heating: Slant Fin electric boiler backup
I take a couple pieces of 1/2" rigid conduit a bit wider than the width of the base. Pry up a corner of the boiler off the base. Get one of the conduits in there. Pry up the rest and get the other conduit piece in the middle or so and roll the bad boy off the front end. it helps with the move if you put a couple 2 x 10's as a ramp to roll it down off the base. Or you could put a couple old tires on the side and tip it over if you have the room. the base is trash anyway. the top won't get hurt.
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1966 EFM 700
Sounds like a good idea on both ends. I have a couple bottle jacks I thought about using. Maybe a 2x4 on top pressed up underneath the opening for the door. (The door is already removed). I don't think I'll have much room for a prybar on the right side. Its all but hugging the wall. I like the idea of the ramps too. I'll post pictures of the setup as is when I get home tonight.
- Scottscoaled
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- Posts: 2812
- Joined: Tue. Jan. 08, 2008 9:51 pm
- Location: Malta N.Y.
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520, 700, Van Wert 800 GJ 61,53
- Baseburners & Antiques: Magic Stewart 16, times 2!
- Coal Size/Type: Lots of buck
- Other Heating: Slant Fin electric boiler backup
Yes! Pictures are mandatory around here!
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1966 EFM 700
Well as promised here is some pictures of what I walked in too. I've already started disassembling it so the jacket and the door are off. Take notice to the mold development on the ceiling. This boiler has been here for some time and it "wore" its way into its home. Pipes and wires are cut and its ready to be disassembled. I'll post some more pictures of its new home tomorrow. I'd like to keep people updated since it sounds like this hasn't been done yet.
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AB, please use an abundance of caution in moving that boiler head, esp. if base is toast. Those things are plenty heavy.
Mike
Mike
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Will do. I started lifting it off the base today. I can tell she's no light duty machine. Looks like the first time its been apart in ages.
- StokerDon
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Nice project you got go'in there. We don't get to see many 700's. That is one heck of a nice machine. As others have said, be careful, that thing is heavy. I doubt if it's lass than 800 pounds, likely closer to 1,000 pounds.Ash Bucket wrote:Will do. I started lifting it off the base today. I can tell she's no light duty machine. Looks like the first time its been apart in ages.
Keep the pictures come'in!
-Don
- Vampiro
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Awesome boiler. Being you are experienced, making a base should be no problem for you. Follow the EFM people's advice here and you're golden as far as I'm concerned. Good luck with the beast.
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AB , I have the same issue , my boiler header is a few inches up into the floor joist. If you can roll the boiler into position then build a 4x4 temporary upright frame around the boiler next. anchor it to the joists too and figure out 4 rigging points to hang small chain hoists off that. Now cinch a 3'' ratchet binder around the boiler, just below the bottom inlets of your boiler. Take up one click at a time on each of the 4 hoists. The boiler MUST be picked dead level or you will flip it ! Now slide the new base under it and just lower it down. This sounds like a lot of work but its not. You can have it all done in an hour and with no strain on your body.Ash Bucket wrote: As far as the base rebuild goes, my only concern is removing the boiler from the base. I don't have much head room to play with for removed. Any suggestions?
Dave
- Scottscoaled
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- Posts: 2812
- Joined: Tue. Jan. 08, 2008 9:51 pm
- Location: Malta N.Y.
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520, 700, Van Wert 800 GJ 61,53
- Baseburners & Antiques: Magic Stewart 16, times 2!
- Coal Size/Type: Lots of buck
- Other Heating: Slant Fin electric boiler backup
After seeing your pictures, I would remove the from plate with the stoker attached. After all that is out I would just tip it over on to an old tire. Easy