Any Reason NOT to Install Boiler on Blocks?
- swyman
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As I am getting closer to installing my boiler in the basement I had the thought of setting my boiler base on some left over block from the basement walls. The one thing that stinks about my boiler is kneeling down to look at the fire or do any work in the firebox area. I like how the boiler works but you have to stand on your head to see the fire or do any work in that area. So I thought if I could throw some blocks under it and get it up 8" or so it might help me out as I get older. Any CONS to doing this or are there any alternatives? Don't get me wrong, it's not like I'm going to cuddle up with the wife on the floor trying to watch the fire, it's just a real PITA to do any maintenance or start the stokers.
- Rob R.
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Unless you find it really easy to fill the hopper and difficult to pull out the ash tub, I think raising the boiler more than a few inches might be counter productive.
I have put mine on 4" cement blocks - it allows air to circulate under the boiler, and makes it a little easier to bend over and pull the ash tub out.
I have put mine on 4" cement blocks - it allows air to circulate under the boiler, and makes it a little easier to bend over and pull the ash tub out.
- hotblast1357
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- Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace
Makes my life a lot easier. Just make sure it is safe and secure.
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- Richard S.
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No issues I'm aware of. I wanted to do this with Van Wert but I was going to make it about 2 courses high. There is no floor in a Van Wert, the floor is the concrete. I was going to place some rails where the concrete floor should be so you could slide the ash can in and out and add a large cleanout door for the blocks you could get a shovel in.
The reason for this was to increase the ash capacity, if you wanted to go away for a couple days in winter you could just leave it with no tub and let the ashes fall into the void created by the blocks. The only reason I didn't do it was the angle of the auger, without some major modifications there was no way to get it close to the floor.
The reason for this was to increase the ash capacity, if you wanted to go away for a couple days in winter you could just leave it with no tub and let the ashes fall into the void created by the blocks. The only reason I didn't do it was the angle of the auger, without some major modifications there was no way to get it close to the floor.
- Hambden Bob
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Yep,throw my vote in for loading height concerns. It's Your call. As Others better than myself have said: Make it Safe and Secure,fully supporting,and level. Happy hot-watering !
- CoalisCoolxWarm
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I'd suggest using two solid blocks on each corner instead of hollow ones. Or you could put a cap on each (new) block.
The hollow block are great- until they get an uneven load. Your boiler will be a heavy load and you'll likely be prying it around during installation and such.
Can it work? Obviously. Will solid block be "better"? IMHO, yes.
Hopper height is a concern- especially if you want to do a coal vac setup. Hint, hint
BTW, I use a rolling stool for lighting or working on the furnace.
Really helps with the back and knees
The hollow block are great- until they get an uneven load. Your boiler will be a heavy load and you'll likely be prying it around during installation and such.
Can it work? Obviously. Will solid block be "better"? IMHO, yes.
Hopper height is a concern- especially if you want to do a coal vac setup. Hint, hint
BTW, I use a rolling stool for lighting or working on the furnace.
Really helps with the back and knees
- coaledsweat
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I second the solid block thing and ditto on a wheeled chair. Plan on spending a lot of time in it grinning.
- CoalisCoolxWarm
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- Other Heating: Oil Boiler
Spinnin' n Grinnin' Nice!coaledsweat wrote:I second the solid block thing and ditto on a wheeled chair. Plan on spending a lot of time in it grinning.
Then comes...."I wonder what else I can mess with...er...I mean...TWEAK?" LOL
- Scottscoaled
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Yeah, I went with the 8" blocks. It raises the door to eye level when you're sitting comfortably in a chair.
- swyman
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- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Pea
I like the majority vote! If there's one flaw of this boiler it is stoker bed location in my opinion. I have attached a pic and shaded the area of the stoker bed in yellow so you can get a reference. Not the best pic but you can see the ash door on the bottom...the stoker beds are above the door and it is no fun to check fire or light. Talking about this with Leisure Line they told me they were going to make a provision in the future that will have a sight glass going through the pressure vessel so you can see the top of the stoker beds. Would definitely be a nice addition! I love the chair on wheels also! Will have one for sure!
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- thegreatone
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I have one of these. Well worth $20. You don't even have to print the coupon. I just had to show the image on my phone.CoalisCoolxWarm wrote:I'd suggest using two solid blocks on each corner instead of hollow ones. Or you could put a cap on each (new) block.
The hollow block are great- until they get an uneven load. Your boiler will be a heavy load and you'll likely be prying it around during installation and such.
Can it work? Obviously. Will solid block be "better"? IMHO, yes.
Hopper height is a concern- especially if you want to do a coal vac setup. Hint, hint
BTW, I use a rolling stool for lighting or working on the furnace.
Really helps with the back and knees
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- Vampiro
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A boiler setting is important. You should make a solid concrete pad for your boiler to do it once and do it right.
Make a form out of wood (make sure the wood is of desired height) and place it where you will be locating your boiler. Be sure to locate it so you have room for plumbing fixtures, and there is enough room to service the boiler, and disassemble anything if needed.
Tools & supplies: saw, level, rebar if you wish (anchor the pad to the existing floor), drill, tape measure, wood screws (to screw the form together), concrete mixing tub, shovel, trowel, and premixed concrete, which you should get 5000 ready mix portland so you don't need to use sand.
You will need to make sure the form doesn't move, so you can surround it with concrete blocks, or use concrete nails to hold it in place. Cut a piece of wood (make sure it's straight) larger than the form so you can pull the excess away. Or you can use a flat level to do it, so you know it's true. Once the form is in place and level, mix the concrete with cold water (not too much water, as you don't want it to be soupy). Fill the form with concrete. Chop the concrete with your shovel, add some more if needed. Take the wood or wood and level and remove the excess concrete. Smooth with the trowel, and then let it dry. You can cover it with wet burlap after it dries for a little while. It's easy to do and worthwhile.
Boilers expand and contract. It's better it do it on a solid foundation. Plus, many codes require a concrete base, and prohibit the use of blocks.
Make a form out of wood (make sure the wood is of desired height) and place it where you will be locating your boiler. Be sure to locate it so you have room for plumbing fixtures, and there is enough room to service the boiler, and disassemble anything if needed.
Tools & supplies: saw, level, rebar if you wish (anchor the pad to the existing floor), drill, tape measure, wood screws (to screw the form together), concrete mixing tub, shovel, trowel, and premixed concrete, which you should get 5000 ready mix portland so you don't need to use sand.
You will need to make sure the form doesn't move, so you can surround it with concrete blocks, or use concrete nails to hold it in place. Cut a piece of wood (make sure it's straight) larger than the form so you can pull the excess away. Or you can use a flat level to do it, so you know it's true. Once the form is in place and level, mix the concrete with cold water (not too much water, as you don't want it to be soupy). Fill the form with concrete. Chop the concrete with your shovel, add some more if needed. Take the wood or wood and level and remove the excess concrete. Smooth with the trowel, and then let it dry. You can cover it with wet burlap after it dries for a little while. It's easy to do and worthwhile.
Boilers expand and contract. It's better it do it on a solid foundation. Plus, many codes require a concrete base, and prohibit the use of blocks.
Boilers expand and contract. It's better it do it on a solid foundation. Plus, many codes require a concrete base, and prohibit the use of blocks.
Vampiro
Uhhh which codes are you referencing that prohibit the use of concrete blocks to make a base for a boiler?
Vampiro
Uhhh which codes are you referencing that prohibit the use of concrete blocks to make a base for a boiler?