Very Excited About Our Coal Stove - Thanks King Coal!

H....sneak a picture of the block and liner and post it on here.....ya can't leave us hanging on....the suspense is too much!

Okay. I get up first. I'll get one in the morning. He has a towel stuffed in there so I'm curious myself.

Okay, makes sense now. What you're looking at is the cinderblock chimney that houses a square clay pipe.

First let me say, the picture's crooked - sorry, but the 2x4 to the right will be gone in that area. He's going to frame out a "box" so the point of entry will be exposed. So the actual chimney reaches further to the right of the 2x4.

The clay pipe inside is not centered in the chimney but is over to the right, as you're looking. greeeeaaaat...

Any suggestions?

Remove the 2 by 4, make the hole in the cinder block a little longer so you can get the hole you need punched in the liner. The hole in the cinder block can be patched to reduce the size of it. Your smoke pipe for your stove needs to go into the liner itself, that's the critical hole.

Ditto on what SW Don says. Save the cinder block chip-outs & mix with mortar to fill the hole on the left. First, stuff that hole with wire mesh(screen wire or similar) to keep the filler from falling out the back. After it sets, it will be fine.
Cheers

That sounds simple and doable. He's a great carpenter and contractor.He's just a little out of his swim lane on this project. he tried to sub it out. No takers. Thanks for the suggestions.

After the hole is made larger in the block, I would do the 'old school' thing of marking my hole on the liner, then drilling small holes with a masonary bit the entire way around, being careful to stay inside the line, and keeping the holes very close to one another. Then I would use a small chisel to cut out the small area between the holes. After the piece was out, I would use my 4 inch angle grinder to clean it up.

Yep. He did use the masonry bits and drilled holes.

I didn't realize he had already widened the cinderblock hole. He used High Heat Furnace Cement to patch.
The clay pipe hole was a perfect fit. We cut the pipe the right length and he used the cement to seal it inside and out. Then he filled in the cinder block space. We left a space heater on under the pipe all night and it's still a bit tacky this morning - no big surprise there.

Once it completely cures he will be going back in to finish sealing on the inside of the clay pipe.

So far so good!!

Good mason work by the carpenter dude!!! Almost time to fire up the stove!

Looks good from here, SoooPa!!! Good work.
Cheers

Seems as tho it would have been far better to have cemented a round clay pipe into the chimney. That thin pipe will likely corrode thru in 3-5 yrs & then it will require ripping it out & start over.

Not necessarily, Dave. If the chimney has some type of a cap to keep rain out it might last longer than folks think. My chimney has the old style slate cap, sitting on a half brick at each corner and it's slightly wider and longer than the chimney is. The chimney goes back to the days of coal and had a coal fired hot water heater (still have it) and coal range hooked into it.

When I opened up the plaster patched hole in the kitchen wall, the sheet metal thimble was still there extending into the chimney. All I had to do was clear out the pieces of broken bricks they stuffed the thimble with to support the plaster and it was ready to be reused.

Now, 12 years later, that sheet metal thimble is still there and the hardware store grade sheet metal stove pipe I stuffed into it is still fine. Plus, the stove pipe I ran to the stove 12 years ago is still fine, too.

Attribute most of that longevity of cheap stove pipe to having that slate cap on the chimney. The old timers were smarter than many think.

Paul

windyhill4.2 wrote:Seems as tho it would have been far better to have cemented a round clay pipe into the chimney. That thin pipe will likely corrode thru in 3-5 yrs & then it will require ripping it out & start over.

...I think that's a fair and accurate possibility. On the up side, a piece of corroded black pipe will be easy to remove as I replaced a neglected piece last yr...it literally fell apart in my hands.

You stated the 2 X 4"s would be gone, you could keep them by installing a heat shield. I would use 3 screws on the 6 inch pipe about an inch or 2 away from the cinder block...located on the pipe at 10 o'clock, 2 o'clock, and 6 o'clock, then a piece of 8 inch pipe held up by the screw heads...adjust for snugness and add another set of screws near the outer edge of the 8 inch pipe. This would give you a 1 inch air space or in essence "insulated pipe" configuration.

I have a red-headed, strong willed carpenter guy. He gets an idea and he goes for it. Fortunately his customers (thus I) are always happy. So I want to church this morning and came back to this. He framed the box, added the cement board, plus he mixed up a little sacrete (or whatever you call it up here in yankee-land ) and finished the cinder block surface. Now we tile. He's getting his sub to do the tile work. BTW, the close up shows a mirror at the end of the hall to the right..(no..left. Military left) of the shot. The reflection is of our messy table (which is behind me as I took the picture) The cement board goes right to the corner as the wall turns down the hall.