Manometer Question
- joeq
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Does anyone know what type of liquid is used in the Dwyers mark 2 manometer?
Paulie was nice enuff to hook me up with the great looking manometer located in the photo to the right. I've put off mounting it in a wooden frame long enuff, and wanted to build it along with a couple thermometers measuring barrel temps and stack temps, much like smokey (Josh) did a while back. I think the display would look better. Trouble is I haven't found any round thermocouple type thermometers yet to utilize, so for now I was gunna hook up my original Dwyers while I figure it out.
Of course, the liquid in my Dwyers is just a little bit on the low side, to zero out. I'm the impatient type, and don't want to wait for a shipment of liquid, if there's a "home-made" brew I can add, just to bring it up a touch more. You can see by the photo how much is missing, and that's with the adjuster all the way. It just won't reach. The main ingredient says Petroleum hydrocarbon, and Hydrotreated light Naphenic Distillate, and a few other additives. All I need is a few drops more to reach the mechanical "zero". Wondering if something like alcohol will work? Thanks for any response.
Paulie was nice enuff to hook me up with the great looking manometer located in the photo to the right. I've put off mounting it in a wooden frame long enuff, and wanted to build it along with a couple thermometers measuring barrel temps and stack temps, much like smokey (Josh) did a while back. I think the display would look better. Trouble is I haven't found any round thermocouple type thermometers yet to utilize, so for now I was gunna hook up my original Dwyers while I figure it out.
Of course, the liquid in my Dwyers is just a little bit on the low side, to zero out. I'm the impatient type, and don't want to wait for a shipment of liquid, if there's a "home-made" brew I can add, just to bring it up a touch more. You can see by the photo how much is missing, and that's with the adjuster all the way. It just won't reach. The main ingredient says Petroleum hydrocarbon, and Hydrotreated light Naphenic Distillate, and a few other additives. All I need is a few drops more to reach the mechanical "zero". Wondering if something like alcohol will work? Thanks for any response.
- michaelanthony
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Hi joeq, the red fluid is around 20 bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/Dwyer-Gauge-Fluid-Bottle-0-826/dp/B00 ... 4CJCBH32CJ
...and a manometer is around 32 bucks and comes with the fluid maybe get the entire set up and have a back up
https://www.amazon.com/Dwyer-Gauge-Fluid-Bottle-0-826/dp/B00 ... 4CJCBH32CJ
...and a manometer is around 32 bucks and comes with the fluid maybe get the entire set up and have a back up
- Keepaeyeonit
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Joe, I thought I read that Marvel Mystery oil would work in the manometer but I may be wrong, I think the gravity was off slightly.( Dwyer oil .826 and marvel oil is .876)
I don't have round thermometers but I think it looks ok - joeq
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Thanks for the "Marvel" tip KY, and now that you posted your set-up, I remember it from the past. Very nice and clean looking panel, but the square digital readouts aren't the look I was after. But thanks again for posting.
- michaelanthony
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Hey joeq, after reading your entire post ...some tranny fluids are pretty close to .840 specific gravity. google it man!
- Keepaeyeonit
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I'm not sure what look your after but you may find a type K EGT gauge that fits the bill, I know most are round and come in a few different sizes and either LCD or Analog style.
- joeq
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I thought I already answered this post, but will again. The EGT gauge is an area to investigate KY, good suggestion. I'm looking for that "antique" look if possible, or something close.
As for conjuring up some homemade stuff, guess I'll just order the right stuff, and run on Paulies Magnehelic gauge, till I figure out a suitable addition.
(How you doin out there Paulie? did you finish your mancave?)
As for conjuring up some homemade stuff, guess I'll just order the right stuff, and run on Paulies Magnehelic gauge, till I figure out a suitable addition.
(How you doin out there Paulie? did you finish your mancave?)
- Sunny Boy
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Joe,
Better to be safe and stick with the correctly calibrated liquid and not wonder about the accuracy with a base heater that can easily run at low mano readings.
Bricks seem to be holding up well. Any visible cracks ?
Paul
Better to be safe and stick with the correctly calibrated liquid and not wonder about the accuracy with a base heater that can easily run at low mano readings.
Bricks seem to be holding up well. Any visible cracks ?
Paul
- joeq
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Hi Paul. Thanks for noticing. No cracks on the bricks...yet. But then again, they're not 100 years old like the originals.
I thought about mixing a 1/2 a tablespoon of tranny fluid into the Dwyers, but then thought if the stuff became "slimy", it might be a little difficult to clean out. So I guess I'll order some of the good stuff.
I thought about mixing a 1/2 a tablespoon of tranny fluid into the Dwyers, but then thought if the stuff became "slimy", it might be a little difficult to clean out. So I guess I'll order some of the good stuff.
- Sunny Boy
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Some types of red dye in liquids can stain the sight glass making it tough to read over time.joeq wrote:Hi Paul. Thanks for noticing. No cracks on the bricks...yet. But then again, they're not 100 years old like the originals.
I thought about mixing a 1/2 a tablespoon of tranny fluid into the Dwyers, but then thought if the stuff became "slimy", it might be a little difficult to clean out. So I guess I'll order some of the good stuff.
On MSDS sheet for the Dwyer red liquid I noticed that the red dye number used is different than what we use in the oil in the hydrostatic gas gauges. We're using glass tubes as originally done, but found it stained clear plastic tubing when tried. The red dye Dwyer uses may be safe for plastic, whereas the red dye in tranny fluid may not be ?
Paul
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If you had all summer and now impatient oh well and no one wants to hear that. On the other hand millions have burned coal without one. Order wait a few days and use known safe good settings. If it glows red in fire pot stove is hot the air is going the right way. No draft no fire. If CO alarm goes off it is not. No CO detector shame on you.
- joeq
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I hear what you're saying Dave. But you know, "too much info" is better than none at all. Just because we have collected data, doesn't mean the stove won't operate. But if you want to troubleshoot a problem, it's better to know what you've got. I know a racer who doesn't own a timing light. Always times his engines by ear. But if he "used" a timing light, he would know more about potential problems, and might even improve his performance.ddahlgren wrote:If you had all summer and now impatient oh well and no one wants to hear that. On the other hand millions have burned coal without one. Order wait a few days and use known safe good settings. If it glows red in fire pot stove is hot the air is going the right way. No draft no fire. If CO alarm goes off it is not. No CO detector shame on you.
- Keepaeyeonit
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I'm glad you said that Joe, so I'm not the only one that thinks like that I got a lot of chit about that stuff on my BaseHeater!!joeq wrote:I hear what you're saying Dave. But you know, "too much info" is better than none at all. Just because we have collected data, doesn't mean the stove won't operate. But if you want to troubleshoot a problem, it's better to know what you've got. I know a racer who doesn't own a timing light. Always times his engines by ear. But if he "used" a timing light, he would know more about potential problems, and might even improve his performance.ddahlgren wrote:If you had all summer and now impatient oh well and no one wants to hear that. On the other hand millions have burned coal without one. Order wait a few days and use known safe good settings. If it glows red in fire pot stove is hot the air is going the right way. No draft no fire. If CO alarm goes off it is not. No CO detector shame on you.