Wood Stove or Coal Stove Why Can't It Be Wood and Coal Stove

 
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Pancho
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Post by Pancho » Mon. Dec. 05, 2016 7:56 am

dlj wrote:
I've owned a Glenwood #6 for many decades. Burned wood for several of those decades. I wouldn't say a Glenwood #6 burns wood great. Does OK. Burns coal great! You can burn both wood and coal in it, but it's really excellent at burning coal...
That.
I burn wood in my G-dub #8 in the spring and fall with great success. I fire it up, load it before bed and the house is sufficiently warm after the fire goes out sometime in the middle of the night.

Aint no way in hell I would go through a Michigan winter burning wood in that stove.
Having as much wood as you do, I'd get a modern wood stove. They run far better than older style wood stoves burning wood. You can't burn both fuels well in one stove. There are too many complications between the fuels. The old stoves, like my Glenwood, burn coal very well, but none of them are anywhere near as efficient as a modern wood stove, plain and simple. Modern wood stoves are excellent at burning wood.
That again.
If you have all the wood and you still like the work, get a modern woodstove sans catalyst and burn wood.
If you want to do it the easiest and most efficient way while still getting your wood fix....cut and sell the firewood to pay for your coal.

I CANNOT begin to tell you how civilized coal is compared to wood heat. It is one of those things in life where, once you burn coal in a good burner....you'll be looking at yourself in the mirror wondering "what in THEEE hell was I thinkin'???".

 
corey
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Post by corey » Mon. Dec. 05, 2016 8:01 am

My EPA stove had the smoke reburn system. The difference with an EPA stove you can not shut the air down. I would highly recommend a pipe damper with a EPA stove. Here's an example of needing it. Living room 90 degrees stove 750 and pink fire blowing out all the holes in baffle. Air control closed fully it's a true story.

 
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Keepaeyeonit
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Post by Keepaeyeonit » Mon. Dec. 05, 2016 8:46 am

corey wrote:My EPA stove had the smoke reburn system. The difference with an EPA stove you can not shut the air down. I would highly recommend a pipe damper with a EPA stove. Here's an example of needing it. Living room 90 degrees stove 750 and pink fire blowing out all the holes in baffle. Air control closed fully it's a true story.
:shock: running like that how often were you reloading it?

 
corey
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Post by corey » Mon. Dec. 05, 2016 9:39 am

When it burns like that 4 hours. I'm not going into detail here but once the smoke lights off. It's out of your control unless you have a pipe damper to control the burn tubes.


 
coalfan
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Post by coalfan » Mon. Dec. 05, 2016 9:50 am

sounds like fire hazzard to me and a lot of work to keep it stoked and settled if possible , be dam carefull doesnt sound to safe to me and a lot of baby sitting , something doesnt sound rite with that whole deal again be carefull or you will be keeping yourself warm from a burnt up home !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 
corey
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Post by corey » Mon. Dec. 05, 2016 10:05 am

coalfan wrote:sounds like fire hazzard to me and a lot of work to keep it stoked and settled if possible , be dam carefull doesnt sound to safe to me and a lot of baby sitting , something doesnt sound rite with that whole deal again be carefull or you will be keeping yourself warm from a burnt up home !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That EPA stove is just sitting in a building don't care if it is used again. But yeah the EPA don't care how safe the stoves are they just care about emissions.

 
coalfan
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Post by coalfan » Mon. Dec. 05, 2016 10:19 am

true , to a point but if a person buying or even cutting it for themselves , thereis nothing wrong with getting every BTU out of that wood .BUT I don't agree that the EPA is involved , I will leave that alone and the BS crap that goes along with it .!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 
johnnyvirgil
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Post by johnnyvirgil » Mon. Dec. 05, 2016 1:24 pm

Richard S. wrote:
Logs wrote:Not sure what an EPA wood stove is ?
About two years ago or so they implemented new rules for wood stoves to lower the particulate matter(smoke) emissions. Coal stoves labeled as dual fuel cannot meet these regs while burning wood so they had to drop the dual fuel labeling.

In extreme cases in some states you cannot use an older wood stove and in others where they were Grandfathered in they have to be removed if you sell the house.
My Vermont Castings Vigilant is like that. It burns wood fine. In fact, I do that in the "shoulder seasons," until it's below 50 degrees around the clock. I believe it's still sold in Canada as duel fuel. However there is a metal plate on top of my ash pan door that says FOR ANTHRACITE COAL ONLY, because this stove has no cat converter or gas reburning tubes, and wood is deemed too dirty. There are also a couple of removable plates inside that cut additional air flow off. I guess all or some of those are modified or removed for burning soft coal.

The difference, of course, is that with coal I get an 18 hour burn time. With wood, it's like 4-6 hours.


 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Dec. 05, 2016 1:59 pm

Just reread the manual for my non-cat EPA approved wood stove, that I never hooked up because I got a coal stove at the same time.

Noticed something else that's a plus for coal stoves - less heat needing to go up the chimney.

The manual says to always run the wood stove so that a surface temp gauge, located 18 inches up the stove pipe, reads at least 350 F. :shock: That's a lot of heat having to go up the chimney just to cut down on creosote buildup.

The stack for my coal stove never gets that hot even when I've had the primary and mpd wide open for quite awhile to recover the fire right after refueling. To get it that hot the top plates would be starting to glow red. For normal running, it's around 140-150F when heating during the day. And dampered down for the night the stack temp is about 110-120F. That's a lot more heat (and money) staying in the house ! ;)

Paul

 
corey
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Post by corey » Mon. Dec. 05, 2016 2:14 pm

Sunny Boy wrote:Just reread the manual for my non-cat EPA approved wood stove, that I never hooked up because I got a coal stove at the same time.

Noticed something else that's a plus for coal stoves - less heat needing to go up the chimney.

The manual says to always run the wood stove so that a surface temp gauge, located 18 inches up the stove pipe, reads at least 350 F. :shock: That's a lot of heat having to go up the chimney just to cut down on creosote buildup.

The stack for my coal stove never gets that hot even when I've had the primary and mpd wide open for quite awhile to recover the fire right after refueling. To get it that hot the top plates would be starting to glow red. For normal running, it's around 140-150F when heating during the day. And dampered down for the night the stack temp is about 110-120F. That's a lot more heat (and money) staying in the house ! ;)

Paul
Correct. A EPA stove sends a huge amount of heat out of the house. It was common that my probe hit 1000 on a reload.

 
Olllotj
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Post by Olllotj » Mon. Dec. 05, 2016 2:59 pm


 
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SWPaDon
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Post by SWPaDon » Mon. Dec. 05, 2016 3:23 pm


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