Setup Help Required
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- Location: Clearfield County, PA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM520
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Ok gents, working on a Keystoker K6
Have everything installed and fired, but I must have something wrong, as the timer doesn't cycle the stoker . Controls-- new Taco 6 zone control module, used but looks good Honeywell L8124a Aquastat, and a new Tork EJWT Timer.
Everything appears to be wired how I understand, but that might be the problem.
I have 120v to the timer, but only a ground wire and the hot black from it to the L8124.
the black is from NO on the Timer, to the ZR on the L8124 -- I do not have the white connected on this cable.
Boiler is running on the aquastat, and shut off near the high limit 180 -- low limit set at 150 with a 15 differential.
Any ideas what I have wrong? Timer cycles, or you can see it light, but the stoker did not cyle even thoug it was below high limit. Thanks in advance
Have everything installed and fired, but I must have something wrong, as the timer doesn't cycle the stoker . Controls-- new Taco 6 zone control module, used but looks good Honeywell L8124a Aquastat, and a new Tork EJWT Timer.
Everything appears to be wired how I understand, but that might be the problem.
I have 120v to the timer, but only a ground wire and the hot black from it to the L8124.
the black is from NO on the Timer, to the ZR on the L8124 -- I do not have the white connected on this cable.
Boiler is running on the aquastat, and shut off near the high limit 180 -- low limit set at 150 with a 15 differential.
Any ideas what I have wrong? Timer cycles, or you can see it light, but the stoker did not cyle even thoug it was below high limit. Thanks in advance
- freetown fred
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
Be patient L--the elec. wiz's will be along!
leward wrote:Ok gents, working on a Keystoker K6
Have everything installed and fired, but I must have something wrong, as the timer doesn't cycle the stoker . Controls-- new Taco 6 zone control module, used but looks good Honeywell L8124a Aquastat, and a new Tork EJWT Timer.
Everything appears to be wired how I understand, but that might be the problem.
I have 120v to the timer, but only a ground wire and the hot black from it to the L8124.
the black is from NO on the Timer, to the ZR on the L8124 -- I do not have the white connected on this cable.
Boiler is running on the aquastat, and shut off near the high limit 180 -- low limit set at 150 with a 15 differential.
Any ideas what I have wrong? Timer cycles, or you can see it light, but the stoker did not cyle even thoug it was below high limit. Thanks in advance
- davidmcbeth3
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pics would help .. you can attach them .. me, no help ... those fancy gizmos with moving parts
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- Member
- Posts: 129
- Joined: Fri. Jul. 03, 2009 2:41 pm
- Location: Clearfield County, PA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM520
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Hitzer 50-93 at camp
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 354 double door woodburner
Pic's in the morning, this is at my son's place.
I did confirm the single wire from timer to ZR on 8124 though, and pretty sure that is correct?
I did confirm the single wire from timer to ZR on 8124 though, and pretty sure that is correct?
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- Location: Ithaca, New York
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4-1 dual fuel boiler
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: former switzer CWW100-sold
- Coal Size/Type: rice
- Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused
I have the Dual fuel KAA-4-1 with a "NEW" L8124L1011 horizontal triple aquastat and a separate B+G BullDog RB-12-E Low Water Cut Off.
I have my L8124L1011 set with 150 high, 120 low with a 15 degree differential. My L6006A is set at 180 degrees to dump the heat from the boiler if needed. I have lots of heat and my house is warmer than its been in years and much more comfortable as the poorly insulated home is warm.
I do not have any wiring lead going to the ZR function as I have a single loop which is also the dump zone.
I have 8 pins at zero time and 9 pins at 15 minutes.
My stoker has the AA model just like the one on the KAA-6 but does not have the red nut stroke adjuster for its pusher plate.
My stoker is set with 8 threads out on the pusher plate.
I have my L8124L1011 set with 150 high, 120 low with a 15 degree differential. My L6006A is set at 180 degrees to dump the heat from the boiler if needed. I have lots of heat and my house is warmer than its been in years and much more comfortable as the poorly insulated home is warm.
I do not have any wiring lead going to the ZR function as I have a single loop which is also the dump zone.
I have 8 pins at zero time and 9 pins at 15 minutes.
My stoker has the AA model just like the one on the KAA-6 but does not have the red nut stroke adjuster for its pusher plate.
My stoker is set with 8 threads out on the pusher plate.
Last edited by lzaharis on Tue. Dec. 06, 2016 7:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Rob R.
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That is normal operation since the aquastat is at the high limit setting. The timer and everything is probably fine, but as long as the boiler is up around the high limit setting it won't allow the stoker to run. It is the same situation when the thermostat calls for heat but the boiler is already at 180...it will allow the circulator to run, but not the stoker.
If you review the Keystoker manual, you will see that you have wired this a little differently than what they suggest. You have wired it the same way I have my EFM hooked up...which works fine, but it occasionally skips timer cycles. You should be able to run through the winter the way you have it, but if you find that you get outfires in the spring, I would switch the wiring to match Keystoker's diagram. Basically they have you run a wire from NO to B1 in the aquastat, so the timer can bypass the high limit. The catch is, you MUST have a dump zone setup to prevent the boiler from overheating.
If you review the Keystoker manual, you will see that you have wired this a little differently than what they suggest. You have wired it the same way I have my EFM hooked up...which works fine, but it occasionally skips timer cycles. You should be able to run through the winter the way you have it, but if you find that you get outfires in the spring, I would switch the wiring to match Keystoker's diagram. Basically they have you run a wire from NO to B1 in the aquastat, so the timer can bypass the high limit. The catch is, you MUST have a dump zone setup to prevent the boiler from overheating.
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- Member
- Posts: 129
- Joined: Fri. Jul. 03, 2009 2:41 pm
- Location: Clearfield County, PA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM520
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Hitzer 50-93 at camp
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 354 double door woodburner
Easy enough to switch ZR to B1. I do have a high temp aquastat,-- can I wire that to a zone on the taco panel? ( essentially having two thermostats on a connection)
- McGiever
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Long as that hi temp (aquastat) switch has both a NO and NC contacts. Some only have one, the NC for the hi temp limit.
You would want it to have both (NO & NC) to allow it to also dump.
You would want it to have both (NO & NC) to allow it to also dump.
leward wrote: I do have a high temp aquastat,-- can I wire that to a zone on the taco panel? ( essentially having two thermostats on a connection)
Last edited by McGiever on Tue. Dec. 06, 2016 10:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- SWPaDon
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McGiever wrote:Long as that hi temp switch has both a NO and NC contacts.
Some only have NC for the hi limit.
You would want it to have both to allow it to also dump.
leward wrote:I have 120v to the timer, but only a ground wire and the hot black from it to the L8124.
the black is from NO on the Timer, to the ZR on the L8124 -- I do not have the white connected on this cable.
- CoalisCoolxWarm
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Here's my KA6 wiring
Here's my zone controller
I think those have everything in it. If you need more, just ask!
Here's my zone controller
I think those have everything in it. If you need more, just ask!