KA4 Project (Pic Heavy)

I wish I had that much room to work with.

What made you decide not to pull water away from the top of the steam chest ("Pumping Away") of the boilers?? Is it because you have a circulator for each zone?

In my case I have always found the 10 dollar air vents did not last very long and became fouled and that is what made me choose the steel expansion tank with the B+G airtrol valve for my systems air purging for my new system.

I would still have the open to air expansion tank my original heating system came with if I knew better at the time before it was ripped out in 1982.

lzaharis wrote:
What made you decide not to pull water away from the top of the steam chest ("Pumping Away") of the boilers?? Is it because you have a circulator for each zone?
.

Mainly because I was not going to replumb both systems. Each zone has it own circulator and I followed the existing setup.

That's a work of art! Nice install!!!

Thanks.

This is how I am planning on installing the flue. (Except is will go to the wall) going to use HVAC strapping to support the horizontal run.

Dat's Purty!

Do you have any unions in your steel lines? In case you have to tighten some fittings down the line?

Might want to use a strap in the middle of your long water piping, too, quite a bit of weight there.

Nice thing about the zone controller, it can be configured to simply make a TT signal to the boiler- essentially acts like a thermostat.

That means if you do go without it to start, using just a Tstat, it will slip right in there later.

The power distribution to the zones is really convenient and neat wiring. One power line in, each zone goes out.

BTW, I strongly recommend all your wiring be done with armored cable. Not only is it attractive and neat, it passes all the code requirements.

Yes, get the cutting tool, it makes all the difference

Keep going, almost there!

If you change the oil smoke pipe...
To enter the main Smoke pipe...
At a 90* angle; ie no downward pitch...
It will keep the ash out of the oil smoke pipe...

CapeCoaler wrote:If you change the oil smoke pipe...
To enter the main Smoke pipe...
At a 90* angle; ie no downward pitch...
It will keep the ash out of the oil smoke pipe...

I wasn't planning on keeping the oil stack hooked up since I only have 1 flue

Qtown1835 wrote:I wasn't planning on keeping the oil stack hooked up since I only have 1 flue

Guess I don't have to ask about that now

All the codes I've ever read do not allow solid fuel appliances to share a flue.

If the chimney draft can support it...
Coal and oil can mix...
It was the wood stove chimney fires...
that gave the bad reputation...
Just set it up but cap the oil...
Then be ready to go...

Down to the final stretch getting things buttoned up. Working on getting everything wired up as time permits. Am I on the right track here? Using the old S400A stoker timer that came with the unit.
Thoughts?

Timer clock motor (1) needs constant L1, but after timer's N/O (4) can then have B1 to join in. No field wire on (3)

McGiever wrote:Timer clock motor (1) needs constant L1, but after timer's N/O (4) can then have B1 to join in.

OK. I was thinking that the timer would need to be tied into the high limit such that if boiler is to temp it will not close the timer relay. ?

Based on what you are saying it should look more like this. Edit. After looking at it. I think I need to remove the common from terminal 3 and it will work as you suggested.

A Honeywell L6006 (N/C) can be added in a port/well and do H/HL in series w/ motor lead hot, but after timer...both Closed will allow stoker motor. By adding L6006 you can set to higher setting...~205*F.

If timer broke w/ contacts Closed you would not have a run-away boiler w/ this Safety.

Has to be wired in Series and After Timer to be a back-up Safety.