Manometer
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I must be losing my mind or much more forgetful than I imagined.
I raised my Crane from 4 inches off the floor to 12 inches off the floor to make tending easier for a bad back and arthritis and has helped. Stack pipe is of course 8 inches shorter. Reinstalled MPD temp probe and manometer. I have the manometer below the MPD as I thought that is where it was and belonged but now wondering. I can not get less than 0.04 draft there unless I manually hold draft regulator wide open. Did I goof and it goes above MPD or is this another mystery? Manometer is level and filled with proper fluid and carefully zeroed...
I raised my Crane from 4 inches off the floor to 12 inches off the floor to make tending easier for a bad back and arthritis and has helped. Stack pipe is of course 8 inches shorter. Reinstalled MPD temp probe and manometer. I have the manometer below the MPD as I thought that is where it was and belonged but now wondering. I can not get less than 0.04 draft there unless I manually hold draft regulator wide open. Did I goof and it goes above MPD or is this another mystery? Manometer is level and filled with proper fluid and carefully zeroed...
- Sunny Boy
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Before the MPD will tell you more about what the stove is doing. After the MPD is more what the chimney is doing.
Did you re-hook the line up to the high - left hand connection, or the low - right hand connection ?
Reads better on the low side connection, like this picture.
Paul
Did you re-hook the line up to the high - left hand connection, or the low - right hand connection ?
Reads better on the low side connection, like this picture.
Paul
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- freetown fred
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DD, is the stove working well? I think I'll get me one of them thar mano's so I can be more confused then I already am!
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Mine came with a 'twin hose' both sides molded together. It is plumbed so it reads to the right on the long expanded scale. It is the same as it always was. I used to be able to close it down to 0.02 and sneak a little more heat out of it and never had the CO alarm go off or even register anything. The stove is running fine makes more heat than I need and might have jumped the gun a bit though does go down to 30's at night and been running 300 on stove top then and 200-250 on top during the day with primaries cracked less than 1/8 turn open. If I try under 175 I lose the fire though Windyhill says he can go lower easily but I am chalking that up to errors in 2 different cheap thermometers to be honest.Sunny Boy wrote:Before the MPD will tell you more about what the stove is doing. After the MPD is more what the chimney is doing.
Did you re-hook the line up to the high - left hand connection, or the low - right hand connection ?
Reads better on the low side connection, like this picture.
Paul
- Sunny Boy
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Not sure what else would give you such mano readings. Maybe someone more familiar with using a draft regulator will "pipe in" as to why ?ddahlgren wrote:Mine came with a 'twin hose' both sides molded together. It is plumbed so it reads to the right on the long expanded scale. It is the same as it always was. I used to be able to close it down to 0.02 and sneak a little more heat out of it and never had the CO alarm go off or even register anything. The stove is running fine makes more heat than I need and might have jumped the gun a bit though does go down to 30's at night and been running 300 on stove top then and 200-250 on top during the day with primaries cracked less than 1/8 turn open. If I try under 175 I lose the fire though Windyhill says he can go lower easily but I am chalking that up to errors in 2 different cheap thermometers to be honest.Sunny Boy wrote:Before the MPD will tell you more about what the stove is doing. After the MPD is more what the chimney is doing.
Did you re-hook the line up to the high - left hand connection, or the low - right hand connection ?
Reads better on the low side connection, like this picture.
Paul
Yeah, I could believe the cheap bi-metallic spring magnetic thermometers could vary that much - even when new. Plus, if they are not in exactly the same spot on both stoves,......
Paul
- Lightning
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When you lifted the stove, did you have to uninstall and then reinstall the MPD?
Last edited by Lightning on Wed. Dec. 07, 2016 4:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Yes but in the same relative position to everything above but stove is 8 inches closer.Lightning wrote:When you lifted the stove, did you have to uninstall ant then reinstall the MPD?
- Lightning
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So you had to make new holes in the pipe for it?ddahlgren wrote:Yes but in the same relative position to everything above but stove is 8 inches closer.
- michaelanthony
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I have a manometer installed in a Tee directly behind a baro flapper, 10 inches from the breach...I use it for reference and proof of draft. I rely on my pipe temp just before it enters the chimney for efficiency and my C.O. detector for a good nights sleep
let's see if your coal consumption changes
let's see if your coal consumption changes
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Yes a new section of pipe to replace 2 shorter ones with 1 long section that is overall 8 inches shorter.Lightning wrote:So you had to make new holes in the pipe for it?ddahlgren wrote:Yes but in the same relative position to everything above but stove is 8 inches closer.
- Lightning
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Okay, so my best guess is that the MPD doesn't quite fit as well as it used to and it's allowing more volume to get passed it in the closed position. This would explain why you see the mano reading drop when you open the combustion air flap while the MPD is closed.
It's possible that the MPD isn't mounted quite as square with the pipe as it used to be.
As for placement of the mano probe, it sounds like it's where it should be.
It's possible that the MPD isn't mounted quite as square with the pipe as it used to be.
As for placement of the mano probe, it sounds like it's where it should be.
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Not going to take it apart over this, just save it for next summer. As long as it burns well and heats the house it will be and if it burns 10 more bags than it should still less work than strip it down and start over. Thanks for all the ideas but the new number will be the new normal for this year LOL
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Good call on the MPD. It dos touch the edge of the pipe on one side and when jammed hard draft goes down to 0.025Lightning wrote:Okay, so my best guess is that the MPD doesn't quite fit as well as it used to and it's allowing more volume to get passed it in the closed position. This would explain why you see the mano reading drop when you open the combustion air flap while the MPD is closed.
It's possible that the MPD isn't mounted quite as square with the pipe as it used to be.
As for placement of the mano probe, it sounds like it's where it should be.
- freetown fred
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Hmmmm, interesting. DD, you don't have a very good draw on that chimney of yours?
- Lightning
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I think he stated it was drafting too much even with the MPD closed he had a -.04 reading, possibly due to the MPD not fitting quite as squarely with the pipe as it used to be..freetown fred wrote:Hmmmm, interesting. DD, you don't have a very good draw on that chimney of yours?
Then this.....
ddahlgren wrote:It dos touch the edge of the pipe on one side and when jammed hard draft goes down to 0.025