Harman SF250

Don great idea.

Thanks I'll do that tomorrow.

Rraves83 wrote:Also what is the piece of metal that is directly behind the load door the hangs down and covers viewing window? What is the purpose and what is the name for this?

Thanks again, and sorry for all the newb questions.

That would be a smoke flap/shield. It helps keep smoke from coming out the door when it's opened.

Rraves83 wrote:Don great idea.

Thanks I'll do that tomorrow.

Do you have a cap on your chimney? If not, consider putting one on. It can help with downdrafts.

Yes cap installed

Rraves83 wrote:Yes cap installed

And still a downdraft, hmmmmm. You may need to use a hairdryer or propane torch to heat the flue a little to get a draft started.

Is priming the flue with a heat gun or hair dryer common? I'm concerned that if my stack temp gets too low will I have a pufff back or reverse draft

Rraves83 wrote:Is priming the flue with a heat gun or hair dryer common? I'm concerned that if my stack temp gets too low will I have a pufff back or reverse draft

It's not really common, but some have that problem. Be sure to have several CO detectors, with at least one having a digital readout. And yes, you could experience a draft reversal with a low fire.

Rraves83, Did your chimney have a liner in it at all, or was it just concrete block?
Some on here have mentioned insulating between the stainless liner and the block with vermiculite. Maybe that would be an option? As I understand it, the vermiculite can keep your stainless liner warmer to reduce or eliminate downdrafts. Maybe someone here with more knowledge on the subject will chime in.

Hello:

I have a Harman sf256 it's the same set up as your stove but configured to be a fireplace insert. It took me a while to get it dialed in but we love the stove. I cut a metal rod to prop the smoke flap up and out of the way when I load the stove otherwise it's hard to shovel coal to the back of the firebox. I also made a long L shaped poker to clear the grates from below. Ash tends to load up on the perimeter of the grate system so clearing with the poker keeps the fire more even. Also put a large 8 inch drywall knife on a stick (duct taped it) to clean ash out from base that misses the pan. You will see it build up on the sides because the pan is to narrow. I've heard that some people extend their ash pans with side flaps to deal with this problem as well. I do occasionally need to preheat my flue but once draft is established it's been fine. Best of luck with getting up and running!

Rob

For the draft reversal, you might have to open a window or door in the basement near the stove when first firing it up too. If the house is pretty air tight, you can sometimes get reversal until the chimney warms up.

Randy

I rotated the photos for you.

Randy

Man! That stove looks like it will puke out heat! Going to need to open the window stats when that sucker gets cranking.

Yeah I tried the window trick, didn't seem to change anything?? I will check tonight when I get home to see if on the outside of the liner and between the block has any insulation or vermiculite.
You guys are great thanks for all the help thus far. Can't wait to keep the heat pump from running.
Does anyone have any experience with turning on forced hot air fans to the "on" position and not auto? Theoretically that would circulate heat from basement where my unit is and blow heat up and suck cold air down thru returns right??

If it's the type with the small white button sticking out of the box, ya pull out for one way, push in for the other. It usually says it right on the cover.

Sorry for the confusion. Yes I know how to set the fan to "on" vs the auto settings.
My question is: does anyone have any experience with how the heat moves around the house with their central air system/forced hot air running on fan only??

Thanks