Harman SF250

Hey guys new to this whole coal stove wood stove thing. But I have been doing my research for the last couple months. Thanks for all the insight and help so far.

Quick question. I am Purchasing a Harman sf250 this week.... anything I should be looking for or aware of before purchasing??
Asking price $1100.00

The one weld around the baffle has been re-welded and also the grates have some slight warpage. But they move and "shake" freely. Anything in particular I should be looking for that is a common problem with these tanks? Previous owner has been nothing but great, honest and very detailed thus far. Thanks so much in advance

Personally, I'd take a second look at this stove. It could be a wonderful find or not. The fact that the baffle weld and the grates are warped indicates that it has been over fired. Stick your head in the fire box and look up at the baffle. Does it show signs of warping or ripples?

The grates aren't a deal breaker but need a second look, too. They may swing freely when you shake them but do they line up and close completely? How wide is the gap when the grates are full open? These grates will be crunching clinkers and the odd bit of coal as you clear the ash. Any wide gaps between them will allow those bits of coal and clinkers to slide through with the potential of jamming the grates. Fortunately, new grates are inexpensive but their condition may reduce the overall cost of the stove.

Over firing a stove is not uncommon. We've all done it a time or two but the majority of us catch it before any permanent damage is done. For signs of overfiring use the search button in the upper right hand corner and see if this stove displays any of them. If not this, depending on actual stove age, this sounds like it would be a good buy. Good Luck, Lisa

Yes I am going to take a closer look today. Other than the grates and the baffle up top anything else I should look for?

Thanks again

Sounds a bit pricey with warped grates and such to me.

What would you suggest as a fair or good price?
The previous owner is just being completely up front. I don't believe the grates are warped all that bad. Overall the stove looks to be in incredible condition but again I'm a newbie and you fine folks are the pros here.

Thank you for you time

While the grates don't look too warped when cold, things may change quiclky when heated as they may warp more. It's a 50/50 gamble. If I were to bu the stove, I would have grates ordered the very same day and toss the old ones. Trust me, you don't want to shut down to replace grates when it's 10 below outside.

Look at the price of grates and judge accordingly.

SWPaDon wrote:While the grates don't look too warped when cold, things may change quiclky when heated as they may warp more..

Huh? How?

The SF250 grate shape has a slight warped look to it from new. Unless the grates will significantly warped my concerns would lie with the new weld. Why was it re-welded? Was it due to corrosion or did the baffle somehow come loose from the box? Is there any other unseen corrosion inside either the cover plate or viewed from the flue connection? Maybe reach in and tap to with a light ball peen hammer.

For those not familiar with the SF250, you cannot see the baffles from inside of the firebox.

I purchased the stove.
I talked him down to 950.00
Grates don't seem warped at all. Inside looks great but I'm no pro either. I tested all the inside of the firebox with my hammer. Everything seems solid.

Waiting on my manometer and my two magnetic thermometers to arrive. I also am placing co monitors through out house especially near my newborns and toddlers rooms upstairs. But I am also getting a digital one for the basement next to the stove. I'll send pics when I get everything starting to come together. Working on my granite hearth now!!!

Glad to hear you got the stove. Patiently awaiting pictures :pepsi:

Cap wrote:

SWPaDon wrote:While the grates don't look too warped when cold, things may change quiclky when heated as they may warp more..

Huh? How?
The SF250 grate shape has a slight warped look to it from new. Unless the grates will significantly warped my concerns would lie with the new weld. Why was it re-welded? Was it due to corrosion or did the baffle somehow come loose from the box? Is there any other unseen corrosion inside either the cover plate or viewed from the flue connection? Maybe reach in and tap to with a light ball peen hammer.

For those not familiar with the SF250, you cannot see the baffles from inside of the firebox.

That happened to me on the riteway 37 I had. I warped the grates a little. When it was cold, the grates would turn, but there was a very slight drag at one point. When hot, they locked up. I got another stove quickly as it was wintertime.

One thing to note of the SF series of boilers. You risk the chance of warping the grates from letting the ash pan gets too full and gets close to the bottom of the grates.

Dump the ash pan frequently, I have 2 of them so I can cycle one in and out.

I think you got a great deal on the boiler and hope it all works out for you.

I've finally passed the learning curve on my 360 and am so glad I invested in it years ago. Hit me up if you have any questions I'll try to help you.

J

Ok here are 2 quick pics.
Sorry for the bad quality of pictures and all the construction. In the process of finishing off the basement.
I'm still waiting for my manometer to arrive. However I did notice I have a downdraft when I place my hand in front of the thimble before I hooked up stove pipe.

Regardless all hooked up, started to get a test fire started and had all kinds of smoke in my basement. I think I need to prime my flue. Is this common.
I guess use a hair dryer?

Smoke came from stove damper knobs that were open. Also from ash door. I shut ash door and then it came from damper knobs???

I'm North of Harrisburg Pa
Chimney is exterior stone. Brand new double SS liner.
Chimney is also following the 10-2-3 rule or whatever it's called
Did bill test all good

I do have a clean out from inside. You can see it in the pic. I do notice some airflow there. How would I go about sealing it? I can use cement on the flange that hits the concrete but what about where the door contacts the surround? It's a very thin area?

I tried to give you guys as much info as possible.

Thanks-

Another pic. Sorry for the last duplicate

Silicone on your door, with saran wrap over that. Close the door and let it set up. It should seal the door very well.

Also what is the piece of metal that is directly behind the load door the hangs down and covers viewing window? What is the purpose and what is the name for this?

Thanks again, and sorry for all the newb questions.