Coal Gun S- 130 Install

 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Thu. Jan. 05, 2017 4:45 pm

You'll give up a lot of heat to the chimney of the unused boiler by running the water through both.


 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Thu. Jan. 05, 2017 5:33 pm

Wow, couple things,

OP said electric (resistance) boiler not electric water heater...scalding flesh is a non-issue.

And no electric (resistance) boiler ever had a flue. :)

 
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Thu. Jan. 05, 2017 6:18 pm

lzaharis wrote:You can plumb them in series, just be sure to have the anti-scald mixing valve installed on the hot water heater "out" line to mix the cold water with it at the desired temperature.

The only major issue would be when the hot water heater fails as you will not have a work around unless you install piping to bypass it BEFORE the mixing valve and before the first faucet to assure no one gets scalded.
As I said I am new to coal as well as posting. I did mean electric hot water boiler not domestic hot water but I see what you all said and its a great help I was thinking I would set it up so the electric boiler will only come on if the fire goes out in the COAL GUN but would have bypass valves incase I was to work on ether one so I could bypass it and use the other alone or in the fall or spring when I needed only a little heat for a short time

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Thu. Jan. 05, 2017 6:37 pm

When I had the oil boiler and I was heating with the resistance boiler I did notice that there was some measure of heat going up the chimney via the oil boiler flue. How much is unknown, but it does happen.

 
FirstcoalstokerRon
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Thu. Jan. 05, 2017 7:39 pm

lsayre wrote:When I had the oil boiler and I was heating with the resistance boiler I did notice that there was some measure of heat going up the chimney via the oil boiler flue. How much is unknown, but it does happen.
Thanks lsayre, I can live with a little heat loss as I would only use the resistance boiler "learned new word" when and if I had to go away or the coal boiler crashed. But thanks for all the help I do enjoy reading and learning from you all. After I install the stove pipe to the chimney ill do the hot water piping to the baseboard heaters. I am going to make two zones now and add 3 more later and then ill beg for help with the rest of the install. THANKS AGAIN

 
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 1:18 am

As I already had a baro, T, thimble, elbows and stove pipe, are were 6 inch, I went with 5" to 6" increaser at the breach to the thimble with 6 " stove pipe. I know need 3 screws at each joint should I also use high temperature silicone to seal the joints and is it ok to use 4 screws in each joint ? My baro is a FIELD CONTROLS TYPE RC installed at the thimble I was reading the instructions and read it was for wood and oil did I buy the wrong baro?

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 7:05 am

The baro is fine and 4 screws works. You're good there.


 
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Post by lzaharis » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 11:06 am

You have the correct barometric damper.

The manufacturer of the barometric damper-Field Controls discusses the proper settings in the installation instructions for coal stokers very thoroughly.

 
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Post by lsayre » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 11:13 am

I believe the Type M is actually the specified damper, but that said:

After struggling with problems since day one (sticking open) with my type M on my coal Gun, and after seeing the simplicity and superior function of the RC that is on my wood/coal stove (foil covered for wood), I'm planning to put an RC on the Coal Gun after this heating season is over. I already have the new RC on standby for this.

 
FirstcoalstokerRon
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 2:31 pm

lzaharis wrote:You have the correct barometric damper.

The manufacturer of the barometric damper-Field Controls discusses the proper settings in the installation instructions for coal stokers very thoroughly.
Thanks for all the help and I as I said the installation instructions I got don't say anything about coal just wood and oil and as I am very new and still working on the installation I need all the help I can get. BTW anyone know where I can get instructions for my COAL GUN S-130 as I am learning as I go I will feel better if I know its installed right THANKS again for all the help

 
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 2:42 pm

lsayre wrote:I believe the Type M is actually the specified damper, but that said:

After struggling with problems since day one (sticking open) with my type M on my coal Gun, and after seeing the simplicity and superior function of the RC that is on my wood/coal stove (foil covered for wood), I'm planning to put an RC on the Coal Gun after this heating season is over. I already have the new RC on standby for this.

THANKS I FEEL BETTER NOW Ill move onto setting up my hot water zones and piping maybe ill be done by next winter

 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 4:10 pm

The M is rated for coal because it swings both ways to absorb puffbacks. Not really a big deal, I ran an RC for over a decade.

Oh yeah, the M costs about twice as much too! :)

 
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Post by Rob R. » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 5:39 pm

RC dampers work good on the 4 EFM's I have hooked up.

 
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Post by lzaharis » Tue. Jan. 24, 2017 4:16 pm

My RC unit has worked very well . I have to wash the small amount of fly ash off of mine when the heating season is over in late may this year for the first time.

 
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Sat. Jan. 28, 2017 1:03 am

Rob R. wrote:Good idea keeping the electric boiler. You never know when you might need to leave for a few days, or be unable to tend to the coal boiler.
That 28x38 spa room sounds interesting. Are you going to heat it with fin-tube baseboard?

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I think it is and yes I will, As of now I have a 1&1/4 inch copper loop running around the basement it splits & the 1 1/4 runs left to a radiator in the basement and then to the 3 bedrooms and the bathroom then returns to the boiler. The right at the split is 1 inch copper that runs into a crawl space under the living room and small dinning room then returns to the boiler, all rooms have fin-tube baseboards. There is no heat in the kitchen as the house is very open. The back room is a spa room with no heat as of now. I closed it off when I went to an elect, boiler. It is 3/4 copper pipe with fin-tube baseboards all around outside walls. I want to make basement and bed rooms zone 1. The living room. dinning room. and bathroom are to be the 2nd zone and the 28 by 38 spa room the third zone. My questions are can I run a new 1 1/4 copper line along side the old one to the split then cut the 1 inch line and cap the left side, that would let the old loop heat zone 1, then tie the new 1 1/4 pipe into the 1 inch loop which will heat zone 2, ill add zone 3 later. I will add a pump to both 1 1/4 loops. Pipe coming out of boiler is I 1/4 and I want ball valves before and after each pump, must I us 1 I/4 valves, can I use 3/4 valves with reducers then into 1 1/4 pipe ? All advise will be appreciated and thanks again! If this all won't work please tell me


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