KA6 Left/Right Configuration

Hi folks,

What a great forum!! I've learned a lot from you folks and appreciate the sharing attitude the regulars have here.

I'm planning on installing a Keystoker KA6 and have a question about the orientation of the unit, whether I need a left or right hand configuration.

What is the configuration of this unit from the Keystoker website? Does the left/right option refer to the chimney or the hopper? The dealer, I spoke to wasn't real clear on this and it was difficult to visualize over the phone.

I'll be doing a remote install in my garage, against the back wall. The coal storage would be on the left. I'd prefer having the chimney on the right, away from the bin.

Does anyone have the furnace+hopper length handy. Keystoker lists the length as 40" but , based on the unit I looked at (just the boiler), I doubt that is the total with hopper.

Rick

Hi,

Welcome to the forum. This place is like gold.... black gold!

This has all the info you need.

I believe the left right refers to which side the ash pan door and access to the firebox is on. You'll need access to both of these. As to which is which guess that depends on what they consider the front, most likely the hopper is considered the front.

Hello 218Bee, welcome to the forum.. Looking at the cut-away of the boiler, I'm 99% sure Richard is right,, the Left/Right orientation referes to the ashpan door.. From the cut-away drawing, I can't see any way that the chimney flue can be moved from the rear of the unit.

PM forum member 'gaw' , he has a Ka6, and probably has an answer for you.

When doing the install, just remember that every day you will be fillng the hopper and pulling or replacing the ashpan. Make access real easy from the coal bin to the hopper, and make the ashpan door unobstructed.. the back of the boiler where the chimney exits needs access once or twice a year to remove and clean the flue pipe.. I'll suggest that you install a 'TEE' rather than an elbow, and cap the unused opening.. this way you can clean the fly ash accumulation out just by removing the cap, instead of the whole flue pipe assembly. Don't forget to install a barometric damper..

Hope this helps.. Post a few photos once you get started with the install.. a Progressive series of photos can be very helpful for those members who are contemplating doing the same install..

Greg L.

Thanks beatle and Richard...just wished I didn't have to wait so long

Thats gotta go down as one of the fastest resolutions to an internet question I've seen in years.

The left hand configuration is with the hopper on the left. Thats one reason I asked, Greg, my bin will be on the left hand side. I getting to old to move stuff further that I have to!

One of the reasons I chose the garage is the flexibility. Plenty of room for the unit and fuel. I am a little concerned about the proximity of the vehicles.

I have about 8' from the back of the bumper to the wall, which given a 30" clearance from the back wall leaves me 43" to the rear of the vehicle.

The budget is complete, now to get the approval of the CFO (SWMBO).

Rick

I'd check with your dealer or keystoker to make sure what I posted is correct. I'm just guessing here. If for example the hopper is considered the front the picture you posted would be a left hand, note the ash pan door on the bottom. My brother has a keystoker and his is the opposite...

The keystoker boilers are insulated, heat is not factor to proximity to anything other than the flue pipe which isn't much of concern even if it was very near wood... not that I'm recommending it but it doesn't get that hot. You'll be able to touch it with your hand most of the time unless its been stoking for while. Don't try this at home Kids!

Hello again Rick. The only concern I have with a coal burning device in the garage is the fly ash.. You want to seal your flue pipes, and make a cover, just a piece of steel or even a piece of plywood to set on the loose ash in the ashpan while you carry tha pan through the garage.. The ashes are mildly acidic, so when mixed with humidity wiil promote corrosion on bare steel.. I've notices this on tools I left in my boiler building..

Just a little extra care when moving the ashes and keeping the floor around the boiler vacuumed will keep the dust under control.

BTW: your forum name: Do you have a pistol or rilfle chambered in .218 Bee ?? Nice older cartridge..

Greg L

Look at the sheet beetle has posted it shows left and right hand and the orientation of the hopper and flue pipe. The cut away shown in the brocher is a left hand accordind to beetles sheet. If I understand your floor plan you would want a right hand so the hopper is toward the bin which will be on the left.

OK, from the Dimensions sheet, the 'front' of the boiler is the side with the ashpan door, so jpen1 has it right, if 218Bee wants the hopper on the left, with the ashpan door facing out,, then it needs to be a right hand model..

I wonder if they could just make the base with two ashpan doors like the Axeman Anderson boilers??

Greg L

They must consider where the ash pan door is the front then, my description would be wrong then.

LsFarm wrote:I wonder if they could just make the base with two ashpan doors like the Axeman Anderson boilers??

Don't see why not if you ordered it that way. The base unit is probably the same for both. The side with the ashpan may even be the same on both sides, I'm pretty sure on my brothers both the ash pan door and the access to the firebox is centered in which case it could go on either side most likely.

Hi 218bee

I just went through the same when ordering my K-6 last week. My dealer has a right sided unit there with oil back up( mines without ) and he said the right refers to the side the flue pipe exits. I also called Keystoker to confirm this and that is correct. I want mine right sided so I have good access to the hopper which will be on the left side and also so the pipe exits on the right which is rite in line with the flue thimble. Dave

Thanks Dave!! It's one of those things you need to nail down early.

Yes Greg, I have a Winchester Model 43 bolt action rifle in 218Bee. I fun little gun and accurate as all get out. They really made a nice rifle back then, good wood and basic but well finished metal.

Your correct jpen, from the drawing..right hand model = hopper and blower on left and my bin will be to the left of my stove, with the chimney on the right.

Looking at the drawing, it seems only the largest models have end panel ash pan doors.

Negotiations went well, coal kinda sells itself vs. fuel oil. Looks like my dealer will be getting a call early next week. I'll be sure to take some pics, there is a shortage of KA6 photos on the web

Rick

218Bee wrote:there is a shortage of KA6 photos on the web

There's a shortage of everything to do with anthracite except historical data and the information and pictures you'll find here.

LsFarm wrote:Hello again Rick. The only concern I have with a coal burning device in the garage is the fly ash.. You want to seal your flue pipes, and make a cover, just a piece of steel or even a piece of plywood to set on the loose ash in the ashpan while you carry tha pan through the garage.. The ashes are mildly acidic, so when mixed with humidity wiil promote corrosion on bare steel.. I've notices this on tools I left in my boiler building..

Just a little extra care when moving the ashes and keeping the floor around the boiler vacuumed will keep the dust under control.

BTW: your forum name: Do you have a pistol or rilfle chambered in .218 Bee ?? Nice older cartridge..

Greg L

I'll second that - my table saw is in the garage, and after cleaning/rehabbing my Keystoker out there, the top of my table saw turned into a rusty mess - BAD! I scrubbed it clean and waxed it with 3 coats of Johnson's furniture wax, but it's rusted again....

I'm going to have to lay on a coat of Cosmoline and just clean it off before I have to use it each time.

The way I see the sheet posted by "beatle78" the right and left hand would refer to the side the flu exits. So I am in agreement with the later posts on the subject, sounds like you all have it straitened out.

Overall dimensions for my KA-6 with hoper and covers on; facing the ash and fire doors, 62" wide; 24 3/4" deep; 53 3/4" high. My boiler was made in the 80's but they should be the same unless the hopper size got changed along the way. I do know that the older ones including mine had 9" stacks but that got changed to 8" along the way and that's neither here nor there.

They must be made right or left handed because your water goes all the way to the bottom on the back (opposite the ash door) and the side where the stack opening is. On the front the water comes down to just above the ash door and two small legs on either side of the ash door go down to the base also. The only area that is not against water is the portion below the stoker and the ash and fire doors. The entire unit is a water jacket, this is part of the reason why it is listed as holding around 50 gallons of water.

Keystoker recommends 30" of clearance on the side to allow for your stack pipe and if you need to replace the water coil gasket(s) if you don't need the domestic coil I wonder if they would make it without any openings for the coil(s) because if you shut down over the summer it is not a matter of if but when they will start to leak. Leaking coil gaskets are about certain if the boiler is cycled hot and cold over time. They also recommend 30" clearance minimum in front of the ash door to allow for tending to the ashes.

A caveat if installing inside the garage. You could run into problems with local codes and/or your insurance company. I would make sure before ordering that you can install the thing.