Removing D.S. Hopper...

KingCoal · Post by **KingCoal** » Mon. Jan. 16, 2017 7:46 am

let us know what happened with your .05 intake shim over night. if it held the shop at the target tep. check to see if you have slack on the chain.

if there is slack, turn the dial to the middle of the scale and adjust the chain to have the flap just resting on the shim.

if the .50 shim didn't hold the target temp. increase the shim, run for 8-10 hrs. ( closed building ) and recheck. if you have the target temp. and there is chain slack follow the same adjustment process.

i found that having the bi-metal adjusted in this manner produced quick and accurate responses to environment ( doors / windows open ) and weather changes.

steve

rberq · Post by **rberq** » Mon. Jan. 16, 2017 9:01 am

mntbugy wrote:Amos @ d s said over 650 temp voids warranty.

But 650 where? My stove is running at 325 right now, measured on the top between two circulator tubes. But on the back, near the top of the firebricks, it is 525. So if I ran the top at a reasonable 450 for a very cold day, the back would likely be "too hot". It's aggravating to have a HEATING STOVE manufacturer tell you not to let your stove get hot. Common sense, yes. But simply to say the maximum is 650, without saying where on the stove to measure, is useless.

KingCoal · Post by **KingCoal** » Mon. Jan. 16, 2017 9:26 am

if it's dull red ANYWHERE you've found the top end of reasonable out put.

mntbugy · Post by **mntbugy** » Mon. Jan. 16, 2017 10:51 am

rberq wrote:
mntbugy wrote:Amos @ d s said over 650 temp voids warranty.
But 650 where? My stove is running at 325 right now, measured on the top between two circulator tubes. But on the back, near the top of the firebricks, it is 525. So if I ran the top at a reasonable 450 for a very cold day, the back would likely be "too hot". It's aggravating to have a HEATING STOVE manufacturer tell you not to let your stove get hot. Common sense, yes. But simply to say the maximum is 650, without saying where on the stove to measure, is useless.

Did you poster earlyer -.06 draft. I got 2 hottest spots 1 @top dead center 1.5 inch toward operator position or front of baffle. other one center load door just down from glass window maybe top of firebrick. Other places cooler, sides and back only half as hot. I R says this. I R is GOD ,magnets looks good to me, which works fine
This on a no hopper stove.

mntbugy · Post by **mntbugy** » Mon. Jan. 16, 2017 10:53 am

KingCoal wrote:if it's dull red ANYWHERE you've found the top end of reasonable out put.

AMEN,Praise the Lord,Hall a lu Ya, Martin Luther king day

oliver power · Post by **oliver power** » Mon. Jan. 16, 2017 7:41 pm

KingCoal wrote:let us know what happened with your .05 intake shim over night. if it held the shop at the target tep. check to see if you have slack on the chain.

if there is slack, turn the dial to the middle of the scale and adjust the chain to have the flap just resting on the shim.

if the .50 shim didn't hold the target temp. increase the shim, run for 8-10 hrs. ( closed building ) and recheck. if you have the target temp. and there is chain slack follow the same adjustment process.

i found that having the bi-metal adjusted in this manner produced quick and accurate responses to environment ( doors / windows open ) and weather changes.

steve

Yes, it run very nice. Held target temp all night, and all day. Used less coal, and ashes were more powdery. Good settings you gave me king coal. My settings were very close. However, yours are better. NOW, Lets see what happens when the weather changes again. So far, I'm satisfied with performance. We'll see..........

Like I've said, performance swings all over the place. A little shift in weather, and she wouldn't be worth a darned. Been like that for 1-1/2 years. Hopper out has made a big improvement. No swings as of yet Just getting her dialed back in for "No Hopper".

oliver power · Post by **oliver power** » Mon. Jan. 16, 2017 8:44 pm

Just came in from shop.

Inside temp = 74*
Outside temp = 35*
stove temp = 375*
Stack Temp - 150*
Forgot to look at chain. As a rule, no slack in chain, and flapper almost closed.

EDIT: Measuring D.S. stove body for heat is tough. I'm measuring half way between hopper door, and back of stove. The heat is concentrated there, due to exhaust. I've had it spike towards 800*, or 900* in that area. So, where is the ideal place to measure the temperature of the D.S.? I'm going with the dull red glow as max. Years ago, our stoves had a dull red glow quite often. We've had times when we ran dull red glows for days on end.

rberq · Post by **rberq** » Mon. Jan. 16, 2017 8:51 pm

Refresh my memory, OP -- do you still have the secondary air holes blocked, or open, or some of them blocked?

And is stack temperature from a magnetic thermometer, or a probe?

oliver power · Post by **oliver power** » Mon. Jan. 16, 2017 8:56 pm

rberq wrote:Refresh my memory, OP -- do you still have the secondary air holes blocked, or open, or some of them blocked?

And is stack temperature from a magnetic thermometer, or a probe?

I blocked all but the three in the center. Stove is really running good. At least for now anyways. Magnetic.

rberq · Post by **rberq** » Mon. Jan. 16, 2017 9:03 pm

oliver power wrote:So, where is the ideal place to measure the temperature of the D.S.?

I measure at the left rear corner, just behind the rear-most convection tube. Or on top between any two convection tubes along the sides. Both locations generally agree, and near as I can tell they correspond with total heat the stove is delivering to the room. The bi-metal thermometer location varies more -- top temperature varies as much as 50 degrees with the same dial setting, depending on whether it's early or later in the 12-hour burn cycle -- so the dial setting is not accurate for determining stove output.

KingCoal · Post by **KingCoal** » Mon. Jan. 16, 2017 9:10 pm

oliver power wrote:Just came in from shop.

Inside temp = 74*
Outside temp = 35*
stove temp = 375*
Stack Temp - 150*
Forgot to look at chain. As a rule, no slack in chain, and flapper almost closed.

EDIT: Measuring D.S. stove body for heat is tough. I'm measuring half way between hopper door, and back of stove. The heat is concentrated there, due to exhaust. I've had it spike towards 800*, or 900* in that area. So, where is the ideal place to measure the temperature of the D.S.? I'm going with the dull red glow as max. Years ago, our stoves had a dull red glow quite often. We've had times when we ran dull red glows for days on end.

the location between the hopper door and the exhaust is the place I was told to use as well and, as you have found it's not unusual for that spot to be much higher than 650*.

further more, when that spot is 800 - 900 * you no doubt noticed that no place on the stove was glowing yet.

don't forget, as the temps. drop you will have to keep turning the dial up if you want to keep up. I wouldn't worry about it though, in my case it didn't matter how high I turned it up the stove would just put out more heat and the flap would rarely be more than 3/8" open at that center low apex of the spout.

so glad that you are enjoying the stove more,
steve

deepwoods · Post by **deepwoods** » Mon. Jan. 16, 2017 11:17 pm

mntbugy wrote:
deepwoods wrote:I have a DS Machine New Style Champion in my basement and it has the angled hopper. No extra heat tubes just a plain radiant convection stove. It runs beautifully with no need to fuss with it except to knife the sides of the grate/firebox out twice a week because it has ash buildup as all straight wall square fireboxes do. As far as heat goes I have read it is rated up to 93,000 BTU. Never had trouble getting the heat I ask it for. Once after shake & refilling the hopper I forgot to fully close the ashpan door. After about 20 minutes something smelled HOT in the house. First thing I checked was the DS.......OMG! It was about to go to the white hot phase. Now I always double check the ashpan door! Thank heaven she's built like a tank, I wonder if a lesser stove would have survived with no damage like the DS did.
Amos @ d s said over 650 temp voids warranty. After that as long as it is not glowing RED

Well it's about a 1980-somewhere stove which I bought three years ago at a good price. No telling how many owners it has had and how it was used. I can say that I ran it for the rest of last winter and after I shut it down in the spring I cleaned it and observed no damage to it from the "heat excursion". Grates are massive and still perfectly straight. No buckles or humps in sidewalls or top and no cracked welds. All fire brick liners are in good shape with no cracks. Cant say I am too worried about a warranty on a 30+ year old second or third hand stove. I can say she's one tough cookie

mntbugy · Post by **mntbugy** » Tue. Jan. 17, 2017 9:30 am

KingCoal wrote:
oliver power wrote:Just came in from shop.

Inside temp = 74*
Outside temp = 35*
stove temp = 375*
Stack Temp - 150*
Forgot to look at chain. As a rule, no slack in chain, and flapper almost closed.

EDIT: Measuring D.S. stove body for heat is tough. I'm measuring half way between hopper door, and back of stove. The heat is concentrated there, due to exhaust. I've had it spike towards 800*, or 900* in that area. So, where is the ideal place to measure the temperature of the D.S.? I'm going with the dull red glow as max. Years ago, our stoves had a dull red glow quite often. We've had times when we ran dull red glows for days on end.
the location between the hopper door and the exhaust is the place I was told to use as well and, as you have found it's not unusual for that spot to be much higher than 650*.

further more, when that spot is 800 - 900 * you no doubt noticed that no place on the stove was glowing yet.

don't forget, as the temps. drop you will have to keep turning the dial up if you want to keep up. I wouldn't worry about it though, in my case it didn't matter how high I turned it up the stove would just put out more heat and the flap would rarely be more than 3/8" open at that center low apex of the spout.

so glad that you are enjoying the stove more,
steve

My beech area temps 130 to 200 cooler than top dead center. Fresh fire and stale fire .Hottest cool spot, bottom breach bolt, Baffle got cut out for socket.
Antique 10+ year old stove Serial #0000002416

mntbugy · Post by **mntbugy** » Tue. Jan. 17, 2017 9:44 am

My guess 650 temp is liability reason ?? Got to pick a number somewhere. Skin temps to actual temp (master lightning)
Just opinion here 450x2=900 temps anealing temp, changing property of steel plate
875 x2=1750 temp, Heat treat, changing steel plate reciepe. Wood/coal cook stove with bowed top plate? Not trying to start a fight.
Oliver do not worry your hair will not grow back after pulling it out