KAA-2 KA2 Keystoker Feed Adjustment With Pics! Direct Vent

 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Posts: 2323
Joined: Wed. Jan. 19, 2011 11:41 am
Location: Western PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler

Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Sun. Jan. 22, 2017 10:17 pm

Tryingitout wrote:I pulled out the push bar and motor, no gasket material on either side. What size should I use? Does it just go in the middle space between the screw sets?
Rob got you on the other part, I'll grab this one ;)

As far as I can tell, the gasket material is the height of the push feed section and is just a bit shorter than the distance between the nylon screws.

It was originally stuck on with adhesive tape, I think, but I was able to remove the countersunk screw and work it through the mesh.

I am guessing it is the same size as the material you would use between the stoker section and the boiler's body where they seal.

 
lzaharis
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Location: Ithaca, New York
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4-1 dual fuel boiler
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: former switzer CWW100-sold
Coal Size/Type: rice
Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused

Post by lzaharis » Mon. Jan. 23, 2017 6:11 pm

It is the 1/4 inch gasket material with the peel off glue strip. should be available at most stove shops. you probably wont be able to buy less than a foot of it and it will be less costly from them anyway.

If you purchase the nylon screws locally be prepared to spend 35 cents or more each plus tax

 
Tryingitout
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Location: Western Michigan
Stoker Coal Boiler: KAA-2
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer model 30-95 EZ Flow Sadly Retired
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Propane furnace/elec. water heater

Post by Tryingitout » Wed. Jan. 25, 2017 1:22 pm

I was not able to find gasket material with adhesive tape, so I used contact adhesive, seems to have worked well. Bought nylon screws from Lowes 2@ .59, they did not have 3/4" so I bought 1", and use my wire cutters to clipped the screw, again worked well.


 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Posts: 2323
Joined: Wed. Jan. 19, 2011 11:41 am
Location: Western PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler

Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Mon. Dec. 03, 2018 10:20 am

Going to fire this KAA-2 KA2 up tomorrow for the first time.

It was sitting and waiting for various reasons, including a medical issue. I don't even recall this thread but found it on a search. It's starting to come back (some memories never imprinted but others come back in part or in full when I start touching on the reminders).

Sooo....anyone have initial settings for startup with rice coal?

 
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lsayre
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Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Anthracite Pea
Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75

Post by lsayre » Mon. Dec. 03, 2018 10:24 am

CoalisCoolxWarm wrote:
Mon. Dec. 03, 2018 10:20 am
Going to fire this KAA-2 KA2 up tomorrow for the first time.

It was sitting and waiting for various reasons, including a medical issue. I don't even recall this thread but found it on a search. It's starting to come back (some memories never imprinted but others come back in part or in full when I start touching on the reminders).

Sooo....anyone have initial settings for startup with rice coal?
Will it be replacing your KA-6?

 
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nepacoal
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4 / "Kelly" and an EFM 520 at my in-laws
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF-260 - retired
Coal Size/Type: Buck

Post by nepacoal » Mon. Dec. 03, 2018 10:29 am

I would think 6 turns out and the timer with 4 pins every 10 minutes would get you close. If you have one of the newer 1.75 RPM stoker motors you might need 8 or 9 turns out.


 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Posts: 2323
Joined: Wed. Jan. 19, 2011 11:41 am
Location: Western PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler

Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Mon. Dec. 03, 2018 10:31 am

lsayre wrote:
Mon. Dec. 03, 2018 10:24 am
Will it be replacing your KA-6?
No way!!!

This is at a buddy's place. He wasn't 'sure' he wanted to mess with it that season of the post, then I was out of commission for a while and he had other priorities.

Well, we are buddies and haven't gotten together for a while so I asked him what day I should come over for coffee and we'd fire up that boiler ;)

 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Posts: 2323
Joined: Wed. Jan. 19, 2011 11:41 am
Location: Western PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler

Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Mon. Dec. 03, 2018 10:33 am

nepacoal wrote:
Mon. Dec. 03, 2018 10:29 am
I would think 6 turns out and the timer with 4 pins every 10 minutes would get you close. If you have one of the newer 1.75 RPM stoker motors you might need 8 or 9 turns out.
That's excellent info, thanks!!!

We needed a place to start. I don't know if we had a manual. I just can't remember...yet!

 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Posts: 2323
Joined: Wed. Jan. 19, 2011 11:41 am
Location: Western PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler

Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Tue. Dec. 04, 2018 6:31 pm

Okay, some updates. And a bit of "How to dial in a stoker"

First, the tag on the stoker is "K-2" not KAA-2. Same animal?

Second, A MANOMETER is ESSENTIAL!!!

Third, A MANOMETER is ESSENTIAL!!!

Found that draft was a real problem. Upon inspection found a few things that needed fixed now and some for near future.

1. Outside termination vertical tee (you know with the little hat on the top and open on the bottom) is too close to the ground. IIRC it should always be above the snow levels. 12-24" or something? In any case, we will eventually add an elbow and extend it about 4-5ft vertically. Goal is a *little* natural draft in case of power outage to avoid CO or other problems.

2. Inside 4" pipe needs more rise on the horizontal run. In a condensing natural gas furnace the piping is sloped to the outside, but solid fuel/coal needs to have a bit of help for a little bit of natural draft.

3. When pulling the pipes to clean out everything, still no draft (with fan running). So opened the back side of the direct vent motor pipe/cleanout and cleaned it all out. Look at the little Tee handle to the right side in this pic. It has an allen wrench in its set screw.
directventsection.jpg
.JPG | 322.9KB | directventsection.jpg
Loosened that set screw and the tee wouldn't move. It is supposed to slide IN for less draft, OUT for more draft. Tapped it a few times, vacuumed from the clean out, used my hands to feel for any obstruction and such.

Now it moves freely and the fan can make .06 or so draft! :yes:

Anyone want to guess how we knew there wasn't ANY draft? Cough, cough, LOL.

So now we light the fire again and it starts to burn okay but with a lazy flame. Close down the combustion fan and reset the draft to .03 (for testing/safety margin). Burns much better.

But it runs the fire to the end. I cut back the feed 3 turns.

Then it is just a tiny strip. Turn it back up 2 turns. Fills 3/4 of the bed but with 'cold fire' (lots of black instead of molten looking) and not heating water well.

So I increase the combustion air and reset the draft using the Dwyer Mark II. Did this 2 or 3 time, a little at a time.

Then it is burning completely before it gets to the end. A little too much ash at the end. So I turn up the feed again. A little more combustion air, reset the draft to .015 (spec is .01-.02 over hot fire)

Looking like a better fire but now the water is 135 and zones calling for heat, so it can't catch up. Turn on OIL boiler, all valves open. It satisfied water temp but the K2 is still at about 135F.

Yeah, we'll have to add a pump as mentioned waa-aaay back. But at least we know that BOTH can be on at the same time and nothing EXPLODES! Haha.

Another problem is the aquastat on the oil boiler only goes down to 180F. We'll need to change that if we are going to leave them both on and set the oil boiler to a low temp to kick on (assume out fire). Will add a relay to break power to K-2 when oil boiler takes over. Make it automatic.

So now I am out of onsite time, having been there for 6 hrs.

I'll be calling and checking on him about every hour or two. Maybe head back out later if needed.

If we can get the full-on stoker fire work out as reliable and hot, I'll work on settings for the timer for low-demand times. And then he'll be set!

"What do you do about the dust?" - 'Let me tell you a story about a coal vac...' - To Be Continued!

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