Glenwood 116 to Help Out Little Tiget

The damper is terrific. Loaded full( son's window open) and with the damper just open enough not to whistle, the coal ran from 9:30 p.m. 'til about 6:30+. And it was about 55 degrees I think in the next room in the morning, which is fine. It was about 27 F last night.

I think I will start recording temperatures and "coal behaviour" for a while, even though I did a soft demo on the house last spring and some parts aren't insulated. I still occasionally have a live coal or two in the Tiger of a morning but I only start the Tiger if we are going -27 or something. I swear the Tiger burns best at night when that cold.

I saw the posts about pressure gradient not being very important. Would like to see a pattern. Well, a pattern I like and be able to reproduce it. But still, the house is warm with the Glenwood no matter what I do. Nice to sleep at night and I blacked the woodstove to make it feel better about me not missing it. We have snow here right now....

Started burning wood to cool off house but have to throw in coal to leave. Burns very well. Using ash and dead coal over grate as a wood grate. I love the Glenwood. And I smacked it with the scuttle by mistake trying to heave coal in , and it didn't't have a mark.
Will burn wood over weekend. The chimney is used to abuse from the woodstove

Sounds like you're just an old Pro jenny. By the way, I like your new avatar.

Keep an eye on the stove pipe temps. Don't try to get them too low just because it's warmer weather. That 116 can burn wood well at low enough temps that can build up creosote.

Remember,...

...... well seasoned wood only, ......

..... and wood fires need more secondary air than coal does to make sure your burning off as much of that creosote as possible.

Paul

Thank you Joeq. I have a grown up stove now.
Okay I will remember. I agree. Two and a half years is a good age for cut wood. It is absolutely miserable here with rainfall warnings but temps close to freezing. Went back to coal for that securely heated, cosy feeling.

Wren wrote:Started burning wood to cool off house but have to throw in coal to leave. Burns very well. Using ash and dead coal over grate as a wood grate. I love the Glenwood. And I smacked it with the scuttle by mistake trying to heave coal in , and it didn't't have a mark.
Will burn wood over weekend. The chimney is used to abuse from the woodstove

I haven't read the entire thread (yet) but if you are wanting a low controlled heat...coal, not wood. You should be able to chop the primary air and close the MPD to where the stove is barely warm...WAY cooler than you'll ever be able to get with a wood fire. On top of that, running a 'cool' wood fire is where problems arise with the big C.

Be careful.

I would like very much to control the heat. Definitely when I open the primary air and mpd the stove heats up. But normally it runs just primary open a crack and damper on a diagonal
If I shut the primary the coal dies.I can slow the burn at night by closing the manual damper almost horizontal...okay. And it is about 50 degrees in the morning. So it does work. If it's okay to do that in warmer weather I will. Not sure why it feels wrong. Thanks. I 'll try.

Hi Wren, did you buy a manometer yet. This tool is very helpful this time of year, more so for a first time coal burner.

You could give the primary air, then use the check damper located in the cast elbow in the rear of the stove to tame the draft. A manometer located after the check damper would tell you how your chimney is drafting.

Adjusting the mpd and secondary air inlet on the load door can also help you with warmer outside temperatures.

So there are 4 mechanical adjustments for you to try, (take notes), and the manometer would tell you which combination works best.

Should arrive soon. Been looking at how to install. Telescopic stove pipe caused me to install my damper lower than I wanted. Hope it will go okay with this other thing. I could see the affects of warmer weather when it went up to about 50 something a while ago. Had to open the damper and primary a little. Hmm. Or was that the day I came home and it was about eighty?
And I met someone from Manitoba who says her father has been running something like mine there for a few years. Imagine. She is only about not forty and has heard of coal heating. It's taking off here I think. I almost hope Trump annexes us.

Wren wrote:I would like very much to control the heat. Definitely when I open the primary air and mpd the stove heats up. But normally it runs just primary open a crack and damper on a diagonal
If I shut the primary the coal dies.I can slow the burn at night by closing the manual damper almost horizontal...okay. And it is about 50 degrees in the morning. So it does work. If it's okay to do that in warmer weather I will. Not sure why it feels wrong. Thanks. I 'll try.

Once the coal is lit, it will not die. The burn will slow (which is ONE of the benefits coal has over wood) but not go out.

As for the MPD, YOU need to play with it as your system will act differently than mine. Take notes but with the primary chopped to just a crack you should be able to nearly close your MPD. At this point your stove output is minimal.

I have a magnetic thermometer on both the barrel of the stove and on the stack above the MPD. I try to keep 'some' heat going up the chimney when it's warm....no sense in waking up dead to save a nickel on coal.

Yesterday it was over 70F here and I had the stove puttering at 250 on the barrel and 125 on the stack. I probably didn't need the 125 on the stack but I like to keep a decent delta T between the outside temp and the stack temp. THIS is where you need to play with your setup and see what works.

A mano installation doesn't have to be tricky, or fancy.

The gauge has to be installed on a wall so that it is level using the level bubble in the gauge. There are two small wall-mounting screws provided in the kit.

The fluid level has to be adjusted to zero using the adjusting dial on the gauge. Easy to follow instructions are in the kit.

The probe should be metal tubing (not in the kit) installed in the stove pipe between the stove and the MPD, in a straight section of pipe at least a pipe's width away from any bends in the pipe. A piece of small brake tubing about a foot long, with the flared ends cut off, and automotive rubber vacuum line tubing works well.

You only need to drill a hole in the pipe just big enough for the metal tube to slip into about 2-3 inches.

A short length of small diameter tubing in the kit gets slipped over the right hand of the two gauge ports on top of the gauge. Then the vacuum tubing is slipped over that short length of kit tubing. That should give a good snug connection for the larger vacuum tubing onto the small diameter of the port on the gauge.

When you get the gauge we can walk you through installing and using it more, if need be.

Paul

I'll get the parts ready. Thanks for telling me what I can use, but over the summer I think I will... put the Glenwood in a closet?!! while insurance visits to check on the rebuild(house)and as soon as they are gone go back to disrespecting their wishes. Twenty six today and lots to do before winter returns. I used to hate winter but that is changing with coal. It was terrific.

Maybe I need to make sure it is all burning before I walk away? Sometimes I just wait until I see flames coming between the coal a little and leave....

We had one day of spring like weather. Tiger enough but back to Glenwood. We will have zero all week. At the end of April. Oh well.

Windows open, Glenwood burning. Happy Easter and everything else to everyone

Wren wrote:Windows open, Glenwood burning. Happy Easter and everything else to everyone

Thank you. And same to you and yours, Wren.

Paul