Mantel Manometer
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The pilot drill if extended beyond the saw teeth of a cup type saw makes drilling from the opposite side easy to register center.
- Rob R.
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Yes, I agree that it will look much better when mounted in the clock bezel - I was simply commenting on the full time use of a draft gauge at all, not what it was mounted in. In any case, I much prefer the look of an analog gauge compared to the red-fluid manometer.waldo lemieux wrote:Precisely why he is putting it in a antique clock bezel.
- deepwoods
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I really like this idea! I have been casting about the net but cant seem to find that round face instrument you have. I am lucky that my son in law is a very good woodworker and has built a few replica mantel clocks using modern quartz movements. He has made several styles including the "ogee" shape you have in mind.
Can you list the maker of your manometer?
Thanks!
Can you list the maker of your manometer?
Thanks!
- joeq
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Not to be a "smart a$$" Rob, but I don't really need a speedometer in my car either, but I still glance at it. Same with the mano, my draft varies regularly, and because I'm still a "jeep" when it comes to this stuff, I like to see what's actually happening, and adjust accordingly.Rob R. wrote:Is it really necessary to have real-time draft readings for a hand-fed stove? I understand that it probably allows you to really dial it in, but it seems kind of out of place for an antique stove.
Thanks Wally. I do have a long 1/2" router bit that I had contemplated using, but figured I'ld invest in one of them adjustable circle cutter, because if I were to purchase just a 4 1/2" hole saw, it would cost as much as the adjustable cutter, and I'ld be restricted to that one size. I didn't find any 4 1/2" forstner bit, so that is out. . And because I'm use-ta working with red oak, I don't see the chestnut being any harder. I have done a few things with the chestnut, and it does seem workable, as long as the tooling is sharp. I'm hoping this new cutter being new, will do the job. we'll see. If all else fails, we'll go to plan B, the router.waldo lemieux wrote: I think its an awesome idea. Joeq , if I was you Id buy a long router bit and go at it like that, Ive never drilled chestnut but its probably harder n hell. WNY makes a great point about "drill your hole in the stock first and then do your layout from that."
- joeq
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DW, Paulie, (signature on this site) was kind enuff to supply me with this one, and the brand on the face is labeled "Magnehelic".deepwoods wrote:I really like this idea! I have been casting about the net but cant seem to find that round face instrument you have. I am lucky that my son in law is a very good woodworker and has built a few replica mantel clocks using modern quartz movements. He has made several styles including the "ogee" shape you have in mind.
Can you list the maker of your manometer?
Thanks!
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joeq, if you make a hole in some 1/4" material @ 4.5" for a template , then make a hole 4.25" in your stock youd be able to clean up the hole and leave a good finish the sides in case you want to inset the unit a little.
- joeq
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I understand the problems associated with boring 2 holes, and trying to meet in the middle Paul, but like franco mentioned, the pilot drill will be a good reference. The bore doesn't need to be "super" precise, because I can drum sand the middle to final size, and the gauge will fill in the hole, and cover any minor imperfections.Sunny Boy wrote:If you try to bore a hole too deep with a hole cutter it usually heats up enough to discolor the wood all around the edge of the hole. Boring from the backside, it's tougher than you think to get the holes to meet up unless your very careful about setup and camping/indexing the work on a drill press. Been there and finally invested in a set of Fostner bits.
If you are building up the thickness with laminations, then bore the holes first. Then align the laminations by the bore holes when you glue up. Then cut out the profile after.
And yes, chestnut is very hard. Much like working with white oak. The good news is that it doesn't have the white oak dog poop smell when you cut into it.
Paul
As for laminations, my original plan was to machine it out of a solid blank, (the wood is 6/4 stock) and the gauge is just at 1 1/2"s. But I don't think the scale will look right given its length, and the size of the base. I think it may appear too skinny and long. So I may make the body 3" deep, (Glue 2 boards together) and the base about 5" deep to give it better proportions. Time will tell, when I get to it. Waiting on the cutter. As suggested by you people, that will be my 1st step, to drill the hole, whilst I still have some meat on the bones.
Last edited by joeq on Mon. Feb. 20, 2017 11:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Rob R.
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Just like a true car guy can determine the speed based on the sound of the engine and road noise, you guys with the fancy antique stoves are supposed to be able to run them by ear and feel.joeq wrote:Not to be a "smart a$$" Rob, but I don't really need a speedometer in my car either, but I still glance at it. Same with the mano, my draft varies regularly, and because I'm still a "jeep" when it comes to this stuff, I like to see what's actually happening, and adjust accordingly.
Be sure to post a picture of your final mount for the magnehelic.
- joeq
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Not a bad idea Wally. Start small, and work it in. If I end up using my router, I'll probably do something like that. But when my circle cutter arrives, I'll make a couple test passes in some pine, just to get it adjusted "just so".waldo lemieux wrote:joeq, if you make a hole in some 1/4" material @ 4.5" for a template , then make a hole 4.25" in your stock youd be able to clean up the hole and leave a good finish the sides in case you want to inset the unit a little.
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http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pressure/DifferentialPressure/Gages/Series2000#orderingdeepwoods wrote:I really like this idea! I have been casting about the net but cant seem to find that round face instrument you have. I am lucky that my son in law is a very good woodworker and has built a few replica mantel clocks using modern quartz movements. He has made several styles including the "ogee" shape you have in mind.
Can you list the maker of your manometer?
Thanks!
- deepwoods
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Thank you. Quite a range of options on them but I guess I need inches of water column value on the scale. My Dwyer MkII reads from -.05 to 3.0. I see that the magnahelic scale does not display a minus reading. The model 2003 displays 0 to 3" which would basically duplicate my oil tube Dwyer. A zero reading would say it all as far as draft is concerned. This would be the best choice?coaledsweat wrote:http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pressure/DifferentialPressure/Gages/Series2000#orderingdeepwoods wrote:I really like this idea! I have been casting about the net but cant seem to find that round face instrument you have. I am lucky that my son in law is a very good woodworker and has built a few replica mantel clocks using modern quartz movements. He has made several styles including the "ogee" shape you have in mind.
Can you list the maker of your manometer?
Thanks!
- joeq
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I would think either that one DW, or the 2000.00 which reads .25, but smaller graduations. I think either one would be OK.
The one I now have reads .25, both sides of 0, with .01 graduations. I'm not a fan of the 120° sweep, but it all works.
P.S. The "catalog" number on mine says, "2300.0",but I don't see it listed. Maybe it's an older model?
The one I now have reads .25, both sides of 0, with .01 graduations. I'm not a fan of the 120° sweep, but it all works.
P.S. The "catalog" number on mine says, "2300.0",but I don't see it listed. Maybe it's an older model?
- Pauliewog
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I bought a dozen of those about 2 years ago, for a job and ended up only using five of them. I'll check to see if there is a different catalog number.joeq wrote:I would think either that one DW, or the 2000.00 which reads .25, but smaller graduations. I think either one would be OK.
The one I now have reads .25, both sides of 0, with .01 graduations. I'm not a fan of the 120° sweep, but it all works.
P.S. The "catalog" number on mine says, "2300.0",but I don't see it listed. Maybe it's an older model?
Actually Joe, I almost called you last week. I picked up a small Seth Thomas mantel clock on Ebay and thought about doing the same thing. The Magnehelic fits in perfect.
Problem is ....... My bride likes the clock. Looks like it's back to going inside the wall phone.
Paulie
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- Pauliewog
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I sure did Joe ..... Seth Thomas Minature No 2 Tambur.joeq wrote:Hi Paulie.. Are you saying you found one with a 4 1/2" hole?
Paulie