Mantel Manometer

Thanks Mr. Paulie. Next comes the "glue-up", Followed by the band saw.
(I hope your wrist is feeling better.)
(TOTP)

Logs wrote:Hey Joeq,
I know you already have your plan of making your own, and I agree the chestnut wood will be beautiful when you get it finished. But in case you change your mind or if others would want to do the same thing, these are quite reasonable in price. I've seen them sold different places. I believe I got mine from The Sportsman Guide. I've had mine a few years, it's a good place to hide a gun in plain site. It could be used for your application. The hole for the clock is exactly 41/2 inches. Just a thought.

Is that a S&W Model 19?

Tonite I only had enuff time to glue up the two 1/2s. Of course the manometer is about an 1/8" deeper than the top board, so I had to use my hand held router, and hog out some stock. Because it'll be sandwiched in between I just quickly free-handed it, so I could get the pieces glued together, and let 'em sit over night. And because it's the end of the month, I need to put some O/T in work, to keep up with the end-of-the-month workload. Which'll eat into my "free" time. But I hope to get an hour tomorrow to get on the band saw.

With a blind hole, how will the connection to the manometer be made?

franco b wrote:With a blind hole, how will the connection to the manometer be made?

The easiest way would be to drill a hole in the back.

Another option is to clamp it up in the drill press, and bore a 1/2" hole at an angle thru the bottom as close to the back as possible in line with the top port.

Since this port is recessed you can use a1/4" barb fitting attached to a piece of plastic tubing and it will easily fish thru the front completely assembled and out the bottom like a lamp cord.

From there he can couple it to the steel or copper tubing going to the flue.

Paulie

franco b wrote:With a blind hole, how will the connection to the manometer be made?

Nothing gets by you guys, does it? Very observant FB. My plan (unfortunately), was to do what Paulie 1st stated, and bore a hole out the rear. But now I'm rethinking his 2nd option. That way, the hose can run "inconspicuously" out the bottom.

I was thinking make it thick enough to contain both a clock and a manometer. Talk about messing with the better half. She'd lose her mind.

Now there's an idea Bill. Mount the clock on one side, and the mano on the other. Then I could turn it to display the clock, when she's around, and swap it back, when I'm tending the stove.

I sort of like the gun storage type as well. Mount the clock on the outside, build it so it opens similarly, but contains the manometer on the inside. That way the clock always faces forward and just lower the clock face down when you need to see the manometer. You'll get better laughs from my other suggestion though.

Chestnut, wow! That should look great when finished, however you decide to build it.

Hoytman wrote:I sort of like the gun storage type as well. Mount the clock on the outside, build it so it opens similarly, but contains the manometer on the inside.

In theory, this has some merit, and does make some sense. But the drawbacks, (from my standpoint) is,
1-I'ld have to alter my existing design which is a little simpler.
2- For me, it would be difficult to make the hinge line on the frt face "inconspicuous", where it would have to open.
3- Every time I needed to view the draft, I would have to reach up behind the stove to open it up.
All of these considerations could be rectified somewhat easily, but I think I'll stick with my original plan. I really don't need another clock in the room, and as long as the manometer has a little less of an industrial look, I don't think most people will realize it's not a clock, (unless they need to know what time it is). But your idea Bill, would be good for some-one who wants to start off, and make theirs an actual clock too.
The past couple days have been a wash for me, with O/T, and a late night social engagement, so hopefully I'll be able to get back at it tomorrow, or the next night.

Made some time to carve out the housing on the band saw, (which came out poorly), so I ended up belt sanding by hand. Then smoothed it out with some 100 grit, and rounded the edges with a 3/4" roundover bit. still needs some finish sanding, but one dilemma has me bummed out. One of my boards face that glued into the middle was badly discolored, and has left a nasty stripe that I need to figure out what to do with. Could do a darker stain, but not really what I want. I'm gunna try bleaching it out, and if that doesn't work....? Next I need to put a profile on the base, and was thinkin a double reverse ogee, but I don't have a big enuff bit. Trying to utilize a cove bit, and follow with a round over bit, but still trying to work out the details. A few years back, I had a nasty experience when I tried using some floor shellac on my oak floors, and they turned black W/I minutes. It took weeks to undo the damage, and I remember ending up using a house hold cleaner to lighten them back up. But I don't remember if it was bleach (?), vinegar(?), ammonia?. Now that I think of it, I think it was vinegar. I'll have to look it up in my Funk and Wagnalls.

Your design...nothing wrong with that at all. It looks great. I was just throwing some ideas out there for those reading into the future that may want to try your build along with some added twists. Yours has turned out beautifully.

Vinegar and steel wool will give it a dark greyish black appearance depending on how long you let it sit on the wood before wiping it off. Try it on a sample block. Soak the steel wool over night in the vinegar though before trying it. I don't much care for that look, but you may like it. That chestnut would look fabulous with almost any popular wood stains. I'm liking the softness of the appearance you produced and it would look awesome with hand rubbed oil finish, to a stain and some poly. I'm sure it will be a looker by the time you're done.

I also kinda like the natural appearance even with the stripe...gives it some character while still having a soft appearance with the rounded edges. Say, I just re-read your last post instead of skimming it. I know you had trouble with your floors, but the little trick of steel wool and vinegar...if you liked the results on a sample piece...could just blend that stripe right in. Still, a black or grey floor would be horrible, especially if you weren't expecting it. I would like to know for certain what caused your floor problem.

You're the 2nd guy in as many days that I've noticed had some chestnut lumber around. The other was on CList. Had some barn beams 7"x9"x9', about 13 of those with a few others of varying lengths. Wanted $6,000.00 for it. That's gonna be one pricey manometer when you're done.

EDIT:
Possibly it was the vinegar that did that to your floor. Did you also use the steel wool with it by chance?
Only reason I mentioned this is because I just so happened to come across some videos about it this evening while doing some research for my wood flooring I plan on refinishing in the next few weeks.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=staining+wood+floors+with+vinegar+and+steel+wool



There's a video too from the Bona company on youtube telling people not to use vinegar and water to clean their wood floors because over time it will swell the wood, can dislodge the finish, and/or darken/blacken lighter finishes. Learn something everyday if we try.

I think it looks great Joe ! Personally, looking at both views, I think it adds some character and probably would leave the stripe there.

A few years back, I bleached a dark stain out of an oak staircase with good results. Cant remember the brand wood bleach, but I picked it up at a local paint store. The kit contained two bottles that you had to mix together.

Paulie

I would have to agree with Hoytman and Paulie, I would leave the stripe it gives it character. That chestnut would look beautiful. With a hand rubbed finish. Min wax makes this stuff called antique oil , rub it on and buff it off the next day. You can make it darker by putting on more coats. I make canes and have used it on some of them. You did a nice job on it , looks good.

Dave

Logs wrote:
I make canes and have used it on some of them. You did a nice job on it , looks good.

Dave

I'm amazed at the talented members here. There was a thread a while back on unusual hobbies. I would like to see some pictures of your canes Dave.......... Was supposed to get two new knees last year and have been putting it off soooo......... I'm just about ready for one myself !

Paulie