Crawford 40 Waiting in the Wings

 
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Canaan coal man
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Post by Canaan coal man » Mon. Mar. 20, 2017 6:49 am

dlj wrote:
KingCoal wrote:other #6 users are going to be along shortly to affirm that that stove will do 24 hrs. with little trouble with proper load and tend practice.

look up Wsherricks threads on the #6. wealth of info second to none.

steve
They only do 24 hours if you aren't cranking out the heat... I typically get about 16 hours when it's quite cold out and I'm running hot... I do tend to run a lot hotter than William does...

dj
Good so im not the only one. Thats what im seeing healthy 14-16 hour tends running 400* plus, any longer and there is risk of a lost fire.


 
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dlj
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Post by dlj » Mon. Mar. 20, 2017 2:02 pm

Canaan coal man wrote:
dlj wrote: They only do 24 hours if you aren't cranking out the heat... I typically get about 16 hours when it's quite cold out and I'm running hot... I do tend to run a lot hotter than William does...

dj
Good so im not the only one. Thats what im seeing healthy 14-16 hour tends running 400* plus, any longer and there is risk of a lost fire.
Yea, a very easy twice a day tend, even running full out... I used to have to make an 18 hour window fairly consistently and could do it, but that takes practice and good fire management. Kept some charcoal handy for when I didn't quite make it :oops:

dj

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Mar. 20, 2017 2:41 pm

Canaan coal man wrote:
dlj wrote:
They only do 24 hours if you aren't cranking out the heat... I typically get about 16 hours when it's quite cold out and I'm running hot... I do tend to run a lot hotter than William does...

dj
Good so im not the only one. Thats what im seeing healthy 14-16 hour tends running 400* plus, any longer and there is risk of a lost fire.
Interestingly, that equates well with another size stove that is also a base heater in a sense.

Those numbers are about double what my range can do and the range firebox holds half the coal capacity of what my #6 can hold. I can run the range at lower temps (450-500F right over the firebox) and get about 12 hours, or push it hotter up into the 600F temps and get about 7-8 hours.

Paul

 
KingCoal
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Post by KingCoal » Tue. Mar. 21, 2017 2:57 pm

well we're back.

had a series of unfortunate events at the RV dealer in Golden CO. that cost me a critical 6 hrs of unintended delay starting back. so I got here at 12:30 this afternoon instead of 6 am.

10was outwhen I got here. grandson said it was out before he got home from work yesterday evening. from the looks of it, it burned down to where it wasn't keeping the flue warm enough to pull thru and ashed out.

no big deal had a fire going and the pot filled to the top of the bricks in 30 mins. currently cruising at 523,BB, 2 MPD's closed, sliver of air being maintained by the bi-metal. from 1:00 till now the house has raised 10 degrees IAT to 60.

no replacement for displacement.

steve

 
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Post by KingCoal » Wed. Apr. 12, 2017 8:33 pm

wsherrick wrote:You can make the loading doors completely air tight with adjustment or in any case with a gasket sealer.
After awhile you will see that they planned for some small bit of leakage.
Now you will find that if you do as I suggested then you will have a base line from which to learn the stove. These things have personalities of their own let me tell you and many ways of adjusting them to do what you want in almost any given condition. That's where the genius of the design will soon impress you if it hasn't already.
now that the fire is out here I am looking back over my journal and this thread and remembered this quote.

the first thing I did with this stove is make it as air tight as I could. looking back I wonder if that was best ? everything below the grates should be as sealed up as possible in my book but, I wonder if I should have left the load door alone. when received it was terrible and the best I could do was adjust it so that all four corners closed. the mid points between wouldn't even drag on a dollar bill. :o

so, i'm wondering if I might have done better letting that door leak some and using the check damper more aggressively in combination.

thoughts,
steve

 
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dlj
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Post by dlj » Fri. Apr. 14, 2017 7:46 am

KingCoal wrote:
wsherrick wrote:You can make the loading doors completely air tight with adjustment or in any case with a gasket sealer.
After awhile you will see that they planned for some small bit of leakage.
Now you will find that if you do as I suggested then you will have a base line from which to learn the stove. These things have personalities of their own let me tell you and many ways of adjusting them to do what you want in almost any given condition. That's where the genius of the design will soon impress you if it hasn't already.
now that the fire is out here I am looking back over my journal and this thread and remembered this quote.

the first thing I did with this stove is make it as air tight as I could. looking back I wonder if that was best ? everything below the grates should be as sealed up as possible in my book but, I wonder if I should have left the load door alone. when received it was terrible and the best I could do was adjust it so that all four corners closed. the mid points between wouldn't even drag on a dollar bill. :o

so, i'm wondering if I might have done better letting that door leak some and using the check damper more aggressively in combination.

thoughts,
steve
I like things as airtight as possible. I don't like using the check damper, I like the exhaust side as tight as possible also, never know when you might get a back draft. I like not having smoke come out the back of my stove. With the base heaters, I feel you can never have too much draft. I'm sure there is a limit there, but I've never reached it on any chimney set up I've ever had, and I've had some pretty high drafting chimneys. Sorry - don't have numbers, never measured draft on any of my chimneys.

Those are my thoughts...

dj

 
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Post by KingCoal » Fri. Apr. 14, 2017 9:07 am

thanks,

i have the same preferences all the way down the list with the exception that the C 40 has an ultra cool internal check damper that I don't mind using at all.


 
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Post by scalabro » Fri. Apr. 14, 2017 11:12 am

KingCoal wrote:thanks,

i have the same preferences all the way down the list with the exception that the C 40 has an ultra cool internal check damper that I don't mind using at all.
Haha yes! A direct path for unwanted primary air to directly connect to the stove pipe :D

 
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Post by joeq » Fri. Apr. 14, 2017 11:25 am

dlj wrote: I like things as airtight as possible. I don't like using the check damper, I like the exhaust side as tight as possible also, never know when you might get a back draft. I like not having smoke come out the back of my stove. With the base heaters, I feel you can never have too much draft. I'm sure there is a limit there, but I've never reached it on any chimney set up I've ever had, and I've had some pretty high drafting chimneys. Sorry - don't have numbers, never measured draft on any of my chimneys.
dj
If you're referring to manometer readings DJ, I have one on my 111, (manometer), and even if my check damper is wide open, it doesn't change the reading on my manometer. Some of our members mentioned that the reason is because of the location of the check damper relative to the sensing tube location for the manometer. I'm a little blurry on that explanation, but can kinda see it. But initially I would think that bleeding off any draft down below would lessen the pull, but it doesn't appear to be the case. To be honest, I still haven't seen a need for my check damper. It always is more problematic when I forget to close it, than the benefit of it being open. Supposibly it shines when the wind is blowing, but we don't get wind that drastic here that warrants it. Still wondering about the benefits of a barometric damper installation, but haven't got the room to fit it in. (MPD is located behind the sensing tube in the photo).
Image
As for the airtight stove, the klinker and primary damper are "relatively" tight on the G111, and would think the only time this would be an issue, is if when operating the stove at a low slow burn, with primaries adjusted to their closed settings, the stove continues to operate hotter than desired. With my stove, the issue is more of the pot ashing up and choking the air down, rather than an uncontrollably hotter fire. But then again, if my fire burned lower, maybe it wouldn't ash up as quickly? Seems like a double edged sword. guess I'm still experimenting with the perfect combination of MPD, and primary air settings, and coal size, relative to the OATS, and other variables.

 
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Post by dlj » Fri. Apr. 14, 2017 8:50 pm

Burning real low is an art. It all depends upon all the variables in play and each installation has to be worked with individually. My stove running down to about 200*F is pretty easy, but running down at say 150*F (using round numbers here) is a completely different ball game... I find I can do it for only certain lengths of time and then either I have to bring the fire up and make it "resettle" or let it go out. I think I can only get a week or two at that real low temp and not have to do something to perk things back up a bit...

As far as the pressure measurement, if you think about it, your chimney has a certain draft. It's based on diameter, height and outside temps (those are the main variables, not including design).

So that draft will be sucking all the air out of the stove, or sucking some air from the stove and some air from your check valve opening. It's easier to move the air through the unrestricted check valve, by the way. If it's sucking some air from the check valve opening, it's sucking less air from the stove side since the chimney only sucks a set amount of air... (man could I go off on a tangent here...) But your manometer is still measuring the same chimney...

dj

 
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Post by franco b » Sat. Apr. 15, 2017 9:17 am

joeq wrote:If you're referring to manometer readings DJ, I have one on my 111, (manometer), and even if my check damper is wide open, it doesn't change the reading on my manometer. Some of our members mentioned that the reason is because of the location of the check damper relative to the sensing tube location for the manometer. I'm a little blurry on that explanation, but can kinda see it.


A reading above the fire would change.

 
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Post by Lightning » Sat. Apr. 15, 2017 10:05 am

joeq wrote:and even if my check damper is wide open, it doesn't change the reading on my manometer. Some of our members mentioned that the reason is because of the location of the check damper relative to the sensing tube location for the manometer. I'm a little blurry on that explanation, but can kinda see it. But initially I would think that bleeding off any draft down below would lessen the pull, but it doesn't appear to be the case.
I have my own thoughts on that predicament. The way I see it, the chimney has a particular volume of gases that it can handle before any negative pressure can be satisfied. Once that volume is met, then the mano reading will fall. I see this effect when I open the load door vs adjusting secondary air. You would think the mano would fall by just opening the secondary air because it allows some of that volume to be compensated, but that's not what I see happen, the mano stays the same or increases slightly because of more heated air mass going up the chimney, an amount that doesn't exceed the volume the chimney can handle. But, when the load door is opened the chimney can't take enough volume thru the huge door opening to maintain the negative pressure (negative pressure is satisfied) so I see a drop on the mano.

Heres the kicker though. I'm using a baro which doesn't restrict volume flow thru the chimney. A MPD is total control of volume flow. By closing it, and opening air controls underneath it, you should see a change in pressure at least over the fire like Franco said. It's all a balancing act between volume of air flow, negative pressure and capacity of the chimney (which can be tweaked with the MPD). :ugeek:

 
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Post by KingCoal » Wed. Jun. 14, 2017 11:57 am

i have recently had reasons to be looking at several manufacturers old catalogs and operating sheets for stoves of similar types and yrs of production.

interestingly, most all of them, considered the load door mounted air adjusters ( that were NOT connected to distribution rings inside the stove ) to be over fire Check Dampers to be intentionally used to cut combustion chamber draft force by bypassing air straight to the flue that had not come thru the fire bed.

SO, i guess i wasn't properly using all available procedures to counter my draft and seemingly high coal use with this stove last winter. :? :oops:

if i live another 50 or so yrs. i might figer out what the originators took for granted :lol: :lol: :lol:

 
KingCoal
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Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
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Post by KingCoal » Wed. Jun. 14, 2017 12:28 pm

KingCoal wrote:i have recently had reasons to be looking at several manufacturers old catalogs and operating sheets for stoves of similar types and yrs of production.

interestingly, most all of them, considered the load door mounted air adjusters ( that were NOT connected to distribution rings inside the stove ) to be over fire Check Dampers to be intentionally used to cut combustion chamber draft force by bypassing air straight to the flue that had not come thru the fire bed.

SO, i guess i wasn't properly using all available procedures to counter my draft and seemingly high coal use with this stove last winter. :? :oops:

if i live another 50 or so yrs. i might figer out what the originators took for granted :lol: :lol: :lol:

it bares mentioning that William brought this very thing up in this thread some time ago and i didn't give it the attention it deserved at the time. live and learn

 
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Post by KingCoal » Fri. Oct. 27, 2017 9:01 pm

Bet you don't know where I am.

Somewhere there's a guy that's so magic with stoves he accepted my C 40 and is going to turn me on to this

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