freetown fred wrote:I've probably had 2 lil puffs with my HITZER 50-93. I just open MPD for tending. Close up all doors SLOWLY when done topping off. Close MPD 1/2 way. Don't have to do anything else. That's with BLASCHAK nut. Course, I'm just into heatin my house, not having to constantly screw around with the old girl. Mine is not that much different from the MKlll
Actually, it's the little things that do make them quite different Fred. Ya see, the Mark-III traps gas in the upper back part of the stove. If the gas is at full non-diluted strength, one little spark can create a BIG Ka BOOM. For this reason, the MARK series has no gasket at two sides of the glass. They call it an air wash, but it's really over fire air for diluting the gasses. Once gasses do ignite, the over fire air aids in burning the gasses.
The D.S. Circulator also pockets gas when the hopper is in. That's why sooo much over fire air in the D.S.. While experimenting / playing with the D.S., I closed up all my over fire air vents. I had a huge explosion. I never closed up all the over fire air vents after that. Now that I've pulled the hopper, it doesn't trap the gasses like before (another plus for pulling the hopper). Now the gasses travel around the baffle in full flow, and out. As long as all doors are closed, when gasses ignite, it's a soft, and gentle puff.
The HITZER doesn't trap gas like the MARK-III, or the D.S. Circulator. The gasses go around the hopper, in full flow, and out. Yes, it traps a little gas, but not like the MARK-III, or D.S. (With Hopper). That being said, any stove can have a KaBOOM if conditions are right. We all know that. However, the BIG Ka BOOMS are scary, and dangerous.
So, I'm curious to know if gbru316's MARK-III has the over fire air gap (missing gasket) at two sides of the glass. If not, maybe he should take some gasket out.
Lisa should be able to help here.