Rust Removal Inside of Stove

 
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traderfjp
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Post by traderfjp » Fri. May. 30, 2008 12:39 pm

Hi,

I have a 2 year old Channing. Little did I know at the end of the first season that the sides of the inside of my stove would start to flake off. I was told that is normal. I would like fix this problem-if possible. I was thinking washing down the inside with baking soda and a little watter and then buying a product that converts rust into a black paintable surface and then painting the inside with a 1200 temp paint. Would this work? has anyone tried this?

Thanks


 
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Devil505
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Post by Devil505 » Fri. May. 30, 2008 12:47 pm

Don't know if you're doing this but I always disconnect the stovepipe from the stove at the end of the heating season. My stove is in the basement family room so I also keep a dehumidifier going throughout the summer too. May not totally prevent rust in the long run, but it helps.

 
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billw
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Post by billw » Fri. May. 30, 2008 3:11 pm

The rust reformer (rustoleum's brand) may not work. It applies like paint and would probably blister with the heat even if it's top coated with high temp paint. I did my kid's brake drums with it last summer. Sand blasted them clean, coat of rust reformer and top coated with high temp enamel. It's already peeling off in less than a year. There's another product called POR (paint over rust) that is supposed to be real good but not sure what it's max temp is.

 
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Tamecrow
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Post by Tamecrow » Fri. May. 30, 2008 4:56 pm

I would wash it down like you said then after it dried out I would spray a rust prevenitive spray on all interior surfaces. This will prevent any rusting during the summer until you're ready to fire it up next season. I don't think you're going to find any paint in a spray can that will withstand the extreme conditions of the interior of your stove.

Terry

 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Fri. May. 30, 2008 9:04 pm

Tamecrow wrote:I don't think you're going to find any paint in a spray can that will withstand the extreme conditions of the interior of your stove.
You won't get any paint to last in there.

 
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Post by Scottscoaled » Sat. May. 31, 2008 8:31 am

Wasn't the stove painted with high temp paint to begin with? It's more of a chemical reaction causing the sides to flake? Go to the POR website for POR-20. Ihave used this with good results. It is a paint that stands up to saltwater environments and the like. The POR-15 discolors with heat. :) Scott

 
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Post by stokin-railroad » Sat. May. 31, 2008 1:52 pm

i have been told that a drop light hanging in the stove with optional timer attached will help significantly with rust issue! does anyone have any experiance with this method.they say a low watt lightbulb burning a few hours a day will help this. :idea:


 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Sat. May. 31, 2008 5:46 pm

stokin-railroad wrote:i have been told that a drop light hanging in the stove with optional timer attached will help significantly with rust issue! does anyone have any experience with this method.they say a low watt light bulb burning a few hours a day will help this. :idea:
Yes, but I would not shut it off. Close everything up and remove the smoke pipe. I have seen old refrigerators used to store welding rod quite often. A 100 watt keeps the inside very toasty and dry as a bone. I would think a small 25-30 watt bulb would be enough.

 
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Post by traderfjp » Sat. May. 31, 2008 10:32 pm

The inside of the stove was never painted. It comes from the factory raw. Why wouldn't 1200 temp paint hold up?

 
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Post by jpen1 » Sun. Jun. 01, 2008 12:38 pm

That is really weird I have never seen an Alaska that wasn't painted on the interior from the factory. Mine is also 2 yrs old and it was painted on the interior and the paint is starting to flake off. I have no rust what so ever on the interior. I wire brush, vacuum, wash with baking soda and then coat it with synthetic motor oil and crc 350. I leave the pipe disconnected and stuff both ends with newspaper as well as the flue exit. The pipe stinks to high heaven when you light it up in the fall, but a box fan in a window or two takes care of the smoke and smell

 
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Post by traderfjp » Sun. Jun. 01, 2008 5:13 pm

Last year I coated mine with POR-15 after I cleaned everything up. It was a pain to get all the flakes off. It would be great if the inside was ceramic coated or something a little more high tech then what is applied or not applied at the factory. I guess the acid nature of the ash will probably corrode even high temp paint. But you know I have to try. Here is a paint with some promise:
**Broken Link(s) Removed**

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sun. Jun. 01, 2008 7:39 pm

No paint will last in there no matter what temperature it is good for. It is the expansion and contraction of the metal that breaks the bond.

 
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Post by traderfjp » Sun. Jun. 01, 2008 8:25 pm

I have a friend who painted engine headers with 1200 temp paint and then baked the paint on with a 400 degree oven for about 2 hours. After 2 years the headers are still bright black with no signs of rust. How would this be different then the inside of my stove. I'm trying to figure this all out.

Thanks

 
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Post by Scottscoaled » Sun. Jun. 01, 2008 10:08 pm

I did the base and boiler for my EMF 520 this last january and today when cleaning, the paint lower in the base still was looking like it was just painted, but the stuff up higher was still intact and solid but was discolored. The shiny silver turned amber. I repainted with POR-20 which is good for high temp. This paint isn't cheap! :) Scott

 
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Post by traderfjp » Sun. Jun. 01, 2008 10:49 pm

Scott I have my eye on POR-20. POR-20 paint is very expensive - I know. Are you saying that the paint is intact with no flaking at all or rust? I don't care if the paint discolors I just want to protect the raw steel so it doesn't rust and flake off (what a mess). Did you paint the inside of your boiler when it was new? Did you prep it in any special way? I would love to see some pics if u get a chance.

Thanks


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