Can I go around Soffit with Class A?

I want to run my Class A up an exterior wall on the Gable end of my house. The Soffit is about 12inches or less I believe. What would be the way to run this? I'd hate to have to cut into the Soffit. Do they make exterior mounts to hold the chimmey out to clear the Soffit? How about keeping the chimmey close to the wal until just below the Soffit and using an offset pipe to clear the Soffit ?

I figure the chimmey will be the hardest part of the stove hookup. I've had a few stoves in my life but never had to use a outside Class A SS chimmey.

Class A mfg. Selkirk does not want you offsetting the chimney around the soffit. I can not speak for the other brands. The only thing that I can think of is to custom build some chimney brackets or cut away the soffit and flash around the chimney. I ran into this same thing last year and I ended up going straight up from my stove, through the attic and out through the roof. Building the brackets would not be very hard. You could use the mfg. brackets and build 12in extensions for them. I almost went that route but decided through the roof would look better on my house. I think in my case through the roof was faster as it only took me an afternoon to put up my chimney by myself on a 9/12 pitch roof.

I have seen it done, on a house a couple miles from me. The chimney goes up close to the wall, then is set out with a 30 degree fitting to clear the roof overhang, then straightened out to vertical again with a second fitting. I have never seen it close up, so I don't know what brackets are used. The bends are gentle enough that I'm sure they don't interfere with draft, and there are chimney cleaning rods that will easily flex enough to sweep it out.

I used to have an exterior Class A running up the wall, but my soffit extended only 6 inches, so I set the whole thing out far enough to clear the overhang with no bends. Chimney weight was borne entirely by the manufacturer's flat horizontal steel base bracket that the chimney sat on. There were two braces above the roof to keep it from blowing over.

The stove will be in the walk out cellar. With two floors above me it seems easier to go out the wall then up the exterior wall.

Do you have a chimney at all? If so, I'm thinking with the cost of the SS , it might make sense to think about using the existing chimney and power venting whatever's in the chimney now.

If you go with the metal chimney, I would try very hard to avoid putting the kick in it. It will cost more, look silly and make it difficult to inspect and clean.

The one near me does not look silly.

The instructions for SuperVent said never to offset an outside chimmey. I'm not sure what a power vent is yet. I have a oil fired System 5000.
I see Excel sells a extended bracket to take the pipe out from the wall enough to clear it. But the Excel prices seem to be twice as much as SuperVents. I wonder if I can use the Excel bracket on the SuperVent pipe.

I found a number of Internet references to Class A chimneys saying that two 30 degree bends were allowed. Here's a link to Selkirk pipe that offers both 15 and 30 degree elbows.
http://www.class-a-chimneys.com/index.p ... ducts.html

Here's another link for Supervent elbows.
http://www.ehow.com/how_2136137_superve ... mneys.html

Certainly you would not want a 90 degree offset, because how would you clean it? But since they make the elbows, they must intend them to be used.

Just put "class a chimney 30 degree elbow" into Google and see what you find.

Those offsets in the selkirk link are for in the house(attic) to go around framing members. Selkirk says not to use the offset on an exterior install. Not enough support at the top of the chimney.