Need A New Chainsaw

Re: Need A New Chainsaw

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Mon. May. 15, 2017 1:59 pm

freetown fred wrote:Nice CS--simplistic is good!! :)

And cheap is even better! :D
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea


Re: Need A New Chainsaw

PostBy: CoalHeat On: Mon. May. 15, 2017 2:55 pm

Good to hear it was a cheap fix.
CoalHeat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert

Re: Need A New Chainsaw

PostBy: KLook On: Tue. May. 16, 2017 5:58 pm

Great news! Sounds like another ethanol carb job...... ;)

Kevin
KLook
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Harman VF 3000
Coal Size/Type: rice, bagged, Blaschak
Other Heating: Gas boiler backup/main
Stove/Furnace Model: VF 3000

Re: Need A New Chainsaw

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Tue. May. 16, 2017 5:58 pm

OK, whacked the first tree. Saw ran real good but the chain has had it. Picked up a new one, have to bring a bunch to saw guy and have him sharpen them. Been reading about the muffler mod thing, any one do this? As I understand it, open the muffler outlets up to 2/3 the area of the exhaust port.

Yup, ethanol disease. I replaced the fuel line and weighted filter in the tank after rebuilding the carb. This Star Tron should alleviate anymore problems with the ethanol
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Re: Need A New Chainsaw

PostBy: Rob R. On: Tue. May. 16, 2017 6:41 pm

Hell yeah on the muffler mod. I did it to my Echo, and had to richen it up afterwards. The performance improvement was very noticeable. On mine I just had to remove the interior components from the muffler - I wear hearing protection anyway, so the noise increase was a non-issue for me.

I run an Oregon chisel chain on mine, it really rips.
Rob R.
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM DF520
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Rice
Other Heating: Dad's 1953 EFM Highboy

Re: Need A New Chainsaw

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Tue. May. 16, 2017 6:53 pm

Yes, understand the retune. Probably have to fatten it up. Have to wait for the ridiculous 7 spline adjusting tool to keep us idiots from messing with it. :lol:
Just tried the new chain, she eats like a busy beaver now. Bonus, saw never started this well, happy camper.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Re: Need A New Chainsaw

PostBy: CapeCoaler On: Thu. May. 18, 2017 10:34 pm

Most Avgas is 100ll...
still has lead...
Synthetic oils still have issues with lead sludging ...
So use a regular oil...
CapeCoaler
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: want AA130
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine BS#4, Harman MKII, Hitzer 503,...
Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Stove

Re: Need A New Chainsaw

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Sat. Jul. 29, 2017 1:02 pm

Just going to revisit this. Fired up the weed whacker and it wasn't happy. Needed half a choke just to stay running. I topped off the tank with some Startron induced fuel and in two minutes was running better than it ever did. I'm a fan on this stuff, does a hell of a job.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea


Re: Need A New Chainsaw

PostBy: Richard S. On: Sat. Jul. 29, 2017 1:48 pm

coaledsweat wrote:OK, whacked the first tree. Saw ran real good but the chain has had it. Picked up a new one, have to bring a bunch to saw guy and have him sharpen them.


Unless you have a lot of chains you should learn to sharpen them yourself. When it's sharp check the size of the wood chips it's making, while cutting once they start getting even a little smaller it's time to sharpen. Lightly sharpening it many times is a lot better than running it dull. Once it starts getting a little dull the cutting edge starts to round over on the top of the tooth and it will continue to round over. To sharpen it correctly you need to file the metal back to where the top of the tooth is flat. With frequent and light sharpening you'll extend the life of the chain and the bar.

You don't have to take it off the saw to sharpen and unless you have a sharpening machine it's best just to leave it on the saw. Put the bar in a vice and lock the chain. Make sure you have the correct size file. Use marker to mark the tooth you start with, same amount strokes per tooth. Try and maintain the same angle on each tooth. Unlock the chain and move it for the next set of teeth. I'd also suggest some leather gloves. ;)
Richard S.
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Van Wert VA1200
Coal Size/Type: Buckwheat/Anthracite

Re: Need A New Chainsaw

PostBy: top top On: Sat. Jul. 29, 2017 3:29 pm

Richard S. wrote:
coaledsweat wrote:OK, whacked the first tree. Saw ran real good but the chain has had it. Picked up a new one, have to bring a bunch to saw guy and have him sharpen them.

Unless you have a lot of chains you should learn to sharpen them yourself. ......................)


Sending the chains out is expensive, both money and time. A very easy way to learn how AND get good results while learning is with a bar mounted file guide. It locks the file at the correct angle so you simply can't mess up. It won't take long until you can recognize what a sharp tooth looks like. After filing remove the bar mounted guide and lay a flat file on top of the cutters. Then use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between the bottom of the file and the "depth gauge" on the chain. File them down as needed for the chain to cut nice chips without grabbing and jumping. All cutters should be the same length and cutting to the same depth.

Using these tools you can get a better cutting chain than by sending it out and spending $$$, not to mention the convenience. The biggest problem with the bar mounted guide is the round file wears in one spot, so you need to rotate it occasionally.

My suggestion is buy a bar mounted guide, a box of round files, a couple flat files and feeler gauges. By the time you wear out the files you will be sharpening like a pro.

I sharpen a LOT of chains, probably because I don't charge anything. :lol: To ease the strain on my eyes and avoid carpal tunnel I bought a cheap grinder from Harbor Freight. For $30 you can't beat it, but I suggest you learn to hand file first.


https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-557849-Pr ... B000B8JCRI

BTW, if anyone knows where a tool called a "Bar Shop" is laying around unused I would be interested in buying it. It is a combo tool for repairing chainsaw bars. Most saw shops don't repair them anymore, it is cheaper to buy a new one.


Wanted to add, be careful out there. Chainsaws are dangerous, especially if not used properly. Here a guy was nearly killed by someone messing around with a saw. You can actually hear him scream louder than the saw just before he hits the ground.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCM5zQJL-LA
top top
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Kodiac Hand Fired with hopper.

Re: Need A New Chainsaw

PostBy: CapeCoaler On: Sat. Jul. 29, 2017 11:10 pm

nice lookin' setup for bar repairs...
http://specialtymotorsmfg.com/probarshop.htm
They make other stuff too...
Nice setup for moving a boat in storage...
Wheelie nice for moving heavy stuff...
CapeCoaler
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: want AA130
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine BS#4, Harman MKII, Hitzer 503,...
Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Stove

Re: Need A New Chainsaw

PostBy: Richard S. On: Sun. Jul. 30, 2017 3:44 am

CapeCoaler wrote:nice lookin' setup for bar repairs...
http://specialtymotorsmfg.com/probarshop.htm
They make other stuff too...
Nice setup for moving a boat in storage...
Wheelie nice for moving heavy stuff...


That's something you'd buy if you owned a shop and even then probably not worth it.

I've never had one of my own saws do this but I guess if you run it dull it heats up and the groove in the bar bar will groove out, seen a lot of them when I worked in the saw shop. If you have standing belt sander with the right angle table that's all we ever used. You just have to be careful you do it evenly.
Richard S.
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Van Wert VA1200
Coal Size/Type: Buckwheat/Anthracite

Re: Need A New Chainsaw

PostBy: top top On: Sun. Jul. 30, 2017 7:13 am

Richard S. wrote:
CapeCoaler wrote:nice lookin' setup for bar repairs...
http://specialtymotorsmfg.com/probarshop.htm
They make other stuff too...
Nice setup for moving a boat in storage...
Wheelie nice for moving heavy stuff...


That's something you'd buy if you owned a shop and even then probably not worth it.

I've never had one of my own saws do this but I guess if you run it dull it heats up and the groove in the bar bar will groove out, seen a lot of them when I worked in the saw shop. If you have standing belt sander with the right angle table that's all we ever used. You just have to be careful you do it evenly.


Right, I was hoping to find one sitting in a back room that hadn't been used in a few decades. I have, or had, an old belt/disc sander with adjustable table. I used a quick square to square the table with the sander, then it was simple to grind the bar square again. The motor fried on the sander, plus the bar tool can re-cut the groove and set the gauge. For me it's just a hobby, so I'm not spending big bucks.
top top
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Kodiac Hand Fired with hopper.

Re: Need A New Chainsaw

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Sun. Jul. 30, 2017 7:30 am

I have had about 50 years of sharpening saw chains. I'm retired from that now. :lol: Costs me about $7 a chain and it is sharp. He loves doing it and I hate it, works like a charm. :clap:
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Re: Need A New Chainsaw

PostBy: freetown fred On: Sun. Jul. 30, 2017 8:06 am

BINGO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
freetown fred
 
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut