Black Chimney Pipe - Snap Type or Welded ?
- Uglysquirrel
- Member
- Posts: 1205
- Joined: Mon. Jan. 07, 2008 8:27 pm
Getting ready to purchase the 6" single wall pipe that goes from the Mark II to the chimney. What do most of you use ??...the conventional snap together type from a local hardware store or 24 ga seam welded Dura-Vent / 22 ga Heat Fab seam welded pipe ? Pro/cons of each ? Stainless due to cost is pretty much out right now. Thanks for your comments.
-
- Member
- Posts: 6515
- Joined: Sun. Feb. 10, 2008 3:48 pm
- Location: Cape Cod, MA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: want AA130
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine BS#4, Harman MKII, Hitzer 503,...
- Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Stove
DSP Metalbestos.
Needed the close clearance of double wall and dislike the snap together pipe for fear of it popping open for some reason.
Needed the close clearance of double wall and dislike the snap together pipe for fear of it popping open for some reason.
Been using it for over 26 years & never had any pop open on me. (should be screwed to the next piece/termination anyway, with 3 sheet metal screws)CapeCoaler wrote:dislike the snap together pipe for fear of it popping open for some reason.
- Steve.N
- Member
- Posts: 284
- Joined: Thu. Feb. 21, 2008 3:26 pm
- Location: Crown Point, NY East side of the state about 130 miles above Albany
I use and sell both, the welded is a lot better on wood because the seam won't leak cresote and water like the snap pipe will. I wouldn't be afraid to use either on coal. Screw the joints on either one for safety
- coaledsweat
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 13761
- Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
- Location: Guilford, Connecticut
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
- Coal Size/Type: Pea
Most of us use the snap together stovepipe, try to avoid galvanized if possible.
- Uglysquirrel
- Member
- Posts: 1205
- Joined: Mon. Jan. 07, 2008 8:27 pm
Snap it is ! In the past wood experience stainless screws have been put on either side of the snap plus around the remaining circumference for a total of 4-5 screw per joint. One other question I have: I'm first putting a "T" into the back of the Mark II for clean out. The *best* fit of the T into the ID of the Mark suggests the capped (Crimped T end) be down. Is there a issue with this configuration filling with ash? I say this because I've seen woodn'coals pictures that show the capped end with the same centerline as the stove exit's centerline. Any big deal here??, just do not want to do some thing wrong where you guys have more experience. Thanks for the continued comments.
It's been my experience (with 3 different coal stoves) that only the crimped end will fit into the stove anyway. Any way you do it will be fine & you will be dismantling the stove pipe each year anyway, to empty any fly ash & check it's integrity. Connecting your stove to your chimney is pretty straight forward........It really is not rocket science.