Some advice on piping

Some advice on piping

PostBy: ceccil On: Thu Jun 26, 2008 1:00 am

Ok, got the stove moved over by the chimney and will start on hooking Sat. or Sun. I have a couple questions now. When I was using direct vent I was using reg. galvanizes for exhaust. This would only last about 2 seasons before needing to be replaced due to corrosion. Tee on the end outside that came with the stove is SS and looks almost new. Due to the price of the stainless, would I be better off going with stainless to plumb into chimney? Also the galvanized I was using was not painted. Would the black pipe last longer being its painted vs. unpainted? Need to come up off the stove approx. 18" vert. and about 55" horiz. to get to the chimney due to a slope in the floor near the wall. Also should the baro be placed on the horiz. run being it's longer or maybe put a tee at the transition from vert. to horiz. and install baro there? I know i'll have more questions before i'm done, but this will get me started. OOps one more before I go. Connection on the stove is 6" and conection in wall is 8". I know I can conect into it, but will this cause problems?
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ceccil
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker, Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: 90K, Mark III

Re: Some advice on piping

PostBy: Steve.N On: Thu Jun 26, 2008 8:01 am

Galvanized is always a no-no for flue pipe use. when overheated the galvanizing will burn off and create a toxic gas. Use black pipe at least 24 gauge. Stainless would be nice but I don,t know if the cost would be worth it as regular pipe lasts two years or more. Reducing your 8 inch flue to 6 inch is no problem.
Steve.N
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Harman mkII
Stove/Furnace Model: Axeman Anderson 260 at store

Re: Some advice on piping

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Thu Jun 26, 2008 8:49 am

I would reduce the chimney's thimble, an increase in diameter there will slow the gas and increase ash deposits in the horizontal run. Don't forget a slight pitch up to the chimney. Ditto on the galvanized, it should not be used on solid fuel appliances.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea


Re: Some advice on piping

PostBy: ceccil On: Sun Jun 29, 2008 10:33 pm

Got her all set. New pipe installed with baro. Now have to hook up heat & return runs. After that going to get the water coil installed. Already have a tank that was given to me. Its going to be nice not to have to deal with that direct vent unit. It works well but not worth the hassel of tearing it apart and cleaning if there is a chimney available to use. Waiting to see if ebay bid for manometer comes through.
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ceccil
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker, Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: 90K, Mark III

Re: Some advice on piping

PostBy: CapeCoaler On: Sun Jun 29, 2008 11:08 pm

With the long horizontal run you might consider replacing the elbow with a tee for easy inspection and clean out.
CapeCoaler
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: want AA130
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine BS#4, Harman MKII, Hitzer 503,...
Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Stove

Re: Some advice on piping

PostBy: ceccil On: Sun Jun 29, 2008 11:34 pm

My chimney doesnt have a cleanout anywhere so I'll have to take the pipe down to clean it anyway and I can look into the baro to inspect. Would be nice to be able to do that though. Thanks.
ceccil
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker, Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: 90K, Mark III

Re: Some advice on piping

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Mon Jun 30, 2008 8:14 am

I can't tell from the picture for sure, but that long horizontal run does not appear to have a lot of pitch to it. I would run a swivel elbow at the top of the unit and again at the thimble and eliminate the vertical staight pipe. That looks like it will need frequent cleaning to me.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Re: Some advice on piping

PostBy: ceccil On: Mon Jun 30, 2008 8:23 am

It doesn't look it in the pics, but there is about 1-1/2" slope in it now. Is this enough or should there be more?
ceccil
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker, Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: 90K, Mark III

Re: Some advice on piping

PostBy: Steve.N On: Mon Jun 30, 2008 8:30 am

You will get some fallout but with the damper where it is it will be easy to look into the pipe with a mirror to inspect for blockage. The velocity through the 6" pipe should keep everything moving. It would be nice to have less horizontal run but it is nicer to have room around the furnace to service it.
Steve.N
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Harman mkII
Stove/Furnace Model: Axeman Anderson 260 at store

Re: Some advice on piping

PostBy: LsFarm On: Mon Jun 30, 2008 9:24 am

Hi Cecil, that is looking good.. I too recommend changing the elbow to a tee.. 90%+ of the fly ash will settle in the horizontal section of flue.. with the baro's location, you can inspect with a flashlight, but you would still need to dissassemble the piping to clean it.. If you install a tee where the elbow is, you can use a shop vac with an extension to clean the flue in about 10 minutes flat..

Greg L.
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

Re: Some advice on piping

PostBy: ceccil On: Mon Jun 30, 2008 3:52 pm

That's something I didn't think of, cleaning it out that way with the shop vac. Going to do that with the tee and cap. Sorry capecoaler I just now realized what you were talking about. Thanks.
ceccil
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker, Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: 90K, Mark III

Re: Some advice on piping

PostBy: ceccil On: Tue Jul 01, 2008 8:51 pm

Now I think were all set. Put a tee with end cap on for inspection and cleanout. Also dropped it a bit more on stove end. Manometer being shipped today. I don't know if this is any kind of real test, but I took the end cap off of the tee and my wife held a cigarette about an inch or two in front of it and all the smoke got sucked into the pipe without the stove plugged in. It looks like the top and front are all rusted in the pic, but their not. Must just be some kind of reflection from the camera flash. Thanks for the help everyone. Also there is an orange cord running into the ash door. That is a drop light with 100w bulb to keep it fom rusting up. I don't know if anyone has tried this, but I used my palm sander with a really fine paper on it to clean inside of stove after I moved it. Worked great! Just had to wear a mask and keep hose for shop vac in there to collect dust. Nice and clean now. Lot of original paint flaking in there.
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ceccil
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker, Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: 90K, Mark III

Re: Some advice on piping

PostBy: Steve.N On: Tue Jul 01, 2008 9:17 pm

I have a Tarm wood boiler and they recommend a bulb in the firebox during the off season to prevent rusting. I never did that and used to spray the firebox with oil but stopped doing that also. After twenty years I don't have any visible corosion. I would clean out the ash in the spring then check the boiler for corrosion a couple of times during the off season. If you need to have the bulb in there to keep things dry then so be it but if you have a dry basement save yourself the electric cost.
Steve.N
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Harman mkII
Stove/Furnace Model: Axeman Anderson 260 at store

Re: Some advice on piping

PostBy: ceccil On: Tue Jul 01, 2008 9:25 pm

I don't get any water down there, its just a damp basement. Old wood framed single pane widows with at least one pane out of each one. I cut up some 2' blue foam board to help insul. until I get new windows installed.
ceccil
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker, Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: 90K, Mark III

Re: Some advice on piping

PostBy: ken On: Tue Jul 01, 2008 9:40 pm

looks nice :D
ken
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker - Rice Coal
Stove/Furnace Model: 75K - Bay Window - Direct Vent