What Brand of Stoker Stove is Best

morrisfamily3098 wrote:Nothing better Than a HYFIRE II and a COAL-TROL themostat.

No way, it is way too big. The pocono is the right size. It fits perfectly up against my cold air return, which meant making the hood and tying it into the cold air return was extra easy.

MINE IS IN THE BASEMENT AND I AM BUILDING DUCT WORK TO HEAT THE FIRST FLOOR WITH FUTURE PLANS TO RUN DUCTS TO THE SECOND FLOOR. HEATING SYSTEM WAS ELECTRIC BASE BOARDS EVERYWHERE. BIG SAVINGS SO THE SIZE WILL BE USED I JUST BOUGHT IT THIS YEAR. SO FAR I HAVE JUST NEEDED TO RUN ONE SIDE 180,000 BTUS WITH BOTH WILL HEAT MY 2800SF GREAT PLUS KEEP THE BASEMENT TOASTY.

Please don't type in all caps.. It's considered yelling.. while I agree, your Hyfire II is almost worth 'yelling' about..

Thanks Greg L

I`m new to coal also, had my koker towards the end of last year & loved it, there is a dealer in Kingsville, Ohio. Not far from you, they carry Alaska & Keystoker for sure & I think one more brand. Gives you more to compair, I think any of the main brands mentioned will do the job. Good luck.

Sorry i have my caps lock on at work and just type without thinking about the yelling thing. AND YES MY HYFIRE II IS WORTH YELLING ABOUT!

LsFarm wrote:What brand/make is the stoker for $2800?? Make and model please..
If for example it is a Harman Magnum, like suggested above,, buy it yesterday.
If for example it is a Reading stoker,, that is about double it's retail price, and quality and value is suspect..
Greg L.

Hmm... So a Reading Stoker can be had for ~$1400? What about the quality is suspect?

I live in S/E Connecticut where the winters are cold and wet very wet.I bought a Leisure Line Pioneer.I couldn't decide on LL or Harman.What made up my mind was Harman says "absolutely no wet coal" LL said wet coal is OK.I knew i couldn't keep my coal completely dry in this area so it was LL for me. Good luck finding one.

Did You Know?
A large hard-working steam locomotive can use up to 6 tons of coal in about an hour. This means a fireman (the one who shovels the coal) might shovel 200 pounds of coal a minute. This is why railroads invented automatic stokers. Learn more about railroad jobs at Steamtown NHS in Scranton, PA.


200# / min. ?? wow I doubt many American workers would do that kind of work these days!!

200# / min. ?? wow I doubt many American workers would do that kind of work these days!!

A local landscape supply yard added coal to his line this year, and it's been nice stuff, so I've been hauling my own coal this year so far. It takes me 15+ minutes to clean out my 1000# trailer, and then I'm ready for a break! Those boys back then were probably in a heckuva lot better shape than me!

As for Harman's "no wet coal", mine's almost always damp to the touch, but never had trouble. Is it just that wet coal hangs up and won't feed so good, or is there more?

Dutchman wrote:As for Harman's "no wet coal", mine's almost always damp to the touch, but never had trouble. Is it just that wet coal hangs up and won't feed so good, or is there more?

You're not supposed to burn wet coal in a Magnum? I've done so for six years - everything from damp to soaked and never had a problem with it. I think that that's some CYA from Harman. Wonder if wet coal will promote corrosion in the hopper?

Hmm... So a Reading Stoker can be had for ~$1400? What about the quality is suspect?

Got my Reading Lehigh for 2600 This September. Greg and I had a conversation about the quality. This is my first coal stove, but I have been burning wood all my life and I thought this stove was very well made, clean welds, very well fitted parts. So I am curious what the quality issues may be. Is it the stoker system?

I can't figure out why Reading decided to use or continue to use the old design TriBurner stoker,, This type of stoker depends on chimney draft to keep the fire burning at idle settings.. and because of this there is often a lot of unburnt coal in the ashpan.. it's fact... The other stoker designs use a full time combustion fan, Keystoker retrofits a full time combustion fan in their boiler stokers when they have outfire problems..

I can't figure out why Reading decided to use cast iron to make one of their stove boxes.. they are prone to leaks and cracking.. Steel is by far a superior material to make the stove box or body out of.. Cast iron is slotted together in corners or where the sides meet the top and bottom.. all a source for air leaks.. a welded steel box is airtight at the seams.

Just my observations and opinions.. I don't see the same problems with other manufacturer's stoves..

After a few more years of reading about problems, issues, and from happy/unhappy customers, maybe I'll change my opinion..

Greg L

I can see where the issues Greg listed could be a factor. In my house I have a chimney that is probably close to thirty feet tall and internal, so draft is never a problem if the chimney is clean. I can see where the separate stoker motor would be an advantage, perhaps next year I will retrofit one. I must say though, I am very pleased with the stove thus far. We'll see when the temps drop well below zero.

Matthaus wrote:

e.alleg wrote:The best is EFM. I can't think of a better built unit on the market today for any price. I also think Chevy trucks are the best and Pepsi is the best cola, and Ski-Doo makes the best snowmobiles and Honda makes the best motorcycles. If it is made in Pennsylvania it is good, if it's made in China forget about it.

Axeman-Anderson, Dodge trucks, Coke, Arctic Cat, and BMW of course I do agree about being made in PA is good!

Every thing American Made, Chevy and Ford Trucks, Arctic Cat, Not much on Bikes but for a Quad I would have to say Honda.

Well I can;t say what is best but I can say everytime I talk to someone and say I have a Reading Stove they all tell me how wrong I am. The stove seems to work fine now after the stoker motor was fixed (Air was pushing out of the sotve not in). Stove gets to temp and gets hot. My onl;y complaint so far is that I burn to much coal but I think that has more to do with my movement of warm air as opposed to the stove itself being faulty.