Domestic hot water coil

How do the DHW coils compare to each model, do the vary in size? Do some stoves heat more water then others, gpm? How would one choose between the LL stoves if they where taking amount of heated water into their decision?

Are they all the same size? Is this something that can easily be added on at a later time? I saw a price for one around $230, would this be about the same for all of them?

Hi,
You can add a coil at any time. $230.00 is about right. GPM depends on how hard your burning the stove.
Jerry

Jerry,

How big is your coil and where does it get mounted? http://www.hilkoil.com/product.htm has one that is 21" long by 10" wide and from the looks of it should fit nicely from going into the side of the stove right near the very top of the inside roof. Is your coil bigger, better? What would you recommend that would produce the most amount of DHW?

You were looking at the one we use. We install about 6"-8" above the fire.
Jerry

Would a home insurer have any problems with a properly installed DHW coil ?

Jerry,

Do you have a picture of what your coil looks like? Also is your's strong enough to be inside the stove if it's not connected to a water source, would it melt like the other SS one if it's just has air in it?

Hi Coalisgood and Adamiscold,
You would need to contact your insurance guy. Adam, if you had a SS coil melt, you had one hell of a fire. Our coil can be in the stove without water.
Jerry
Go on my products page and pull up the link to coil.

Jerry,

I thought I read in a thread just recently that a coil from here http://www.hilkoil.com/product.htm which is a SS coil would melt if it didn't have water running through it. I believe the words used were " the coils are designed to have water running through them" without the water there to cool them down the coil would melt. Hence me asking my questions to you.

I've read and reread that PDF file but I'm thinking that I am missing something here. Figure one only seems to show two different type of coils (M coil and a U coil) being installed the same way, is the one not crossed out (U coil) yours?

You were looking at the one we use. We install about 6"-8" above the fire.

I am assuming that above the fire would be level horizontally with the inside roof of the stove? Figure 1 shows it vertically in the back or side of the stove.

I gather from the connections that the tubing is 3/4" round and how wide and long is it? According to the other web site (linked one) each different coil heats up a different recommend size hot water tank, what size do you recommend with the stove running full tilt?

Sorry for all the questions Jerry, I for one just have a hard time visualizing or buying something I just can't see. I'm one to purchase or do things with as much information that I can have before making the leap. You have a great dvd, very wonderfully done and if you had it linked to u tube or something available online I would have bought a stove from you a long time ago.

Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words. With the hopper in the rear, I take it the loop must come out the side. There is also welded reinforcements on the sides, so I would think that it must need to be tipped to not interfere with these.

I agree there is not really that much detailed information on the actual installation itself for the LL products.

I do think LL customers want to do it the way it was meant to be installed.

I would not worry about melting the SS loop in one of these stoves, its not a blast furnace.

Hi Adam,
The X through the coil shouldn't be there. The coil looks just like that. We buy the coils from Thermobilt and install. You can not have the coil flat. Have a little tilt when installing. Check out their web site, I'm sure there are pictures. I recommend using a tempering tank. Heat the water in the tempering tank and feed your hot water heater with it. You end up with 70/80 gal. of hot water.
Jerry

The coil won't melt without water in it . the melting point of 316L stainless is about 2800* F . However continous high heat willl cause the stainless to lose its anti-corrosion rpoperties to some extent and will utimitely shorten it life by having it in the stove for a long period of time with no water in the coil. If the manufacturer of the coil passivates it with a nitric acid solution followed by sodium hydroxide to neutralize the acid. With 316L stainless it will normalize the stainless and negate the bluing on the steal which causes the premature corrosion to some extent. However I doubt they go to that much trouble due to cost limitations.

Leisure Line wrote:Hi Adam,
The X through the coil shouldn't be there. The coil looks just like that. We buy the coils from Thermobilt and install. You can not have the coil flat. Have a little tilt when installing. Check out their web site, I'm sure there are pictures. I recommend using a tempering tank. Heat the water in the tempering tank and feed your hot water heater with it. You end up with 70/80 gal. of hot water.
Jerry

I couldn't find a web site for them, just others selling their coils. We have a 40 gal. oil tank now, do you think we need to get another 80gal tank or will another 40 gal be sufficient?

Try hilkoil.com. They have diagrams that are quite helpful.