AA-130 Install/Set up

 
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Yanche
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Alternate Heating Systems S-130
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Pea

Post by Yanche » Sat. Sep. 27, 2008 9:52 pm

Then, why is it that the AHS S130 Coalgun which comes with a standard insulated jacket has no such problems? In your own words, it's an "exact" copy! Sounds like two generations of marketing B.S. Don't think so, let's see your BTU calculations.

 
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Kevin2602
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Post by Kevin2602 » Sun. Sep. 28, 2008 12:05 am

Thanks all for the input.

Fred brought up another consideration, a dump zone. Given I am not going to use the jacket, do I need a dump zone? If so, what to dump it to. My plumber was talking about a dump zone out to the (unheated) garage. Was also thinking could dump it to a indirect hot water heater but really would be a waste of money given I have the DHW coil.

Any thoughts?

Kevin

 
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Freddy
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Post by Freddy » Sun. Sep. 28, 2008 5:37 am

Yanche wrote:why is it that the AHS S130 Coalgun which comes with a standard insulated jacket has no such problems?
Good point! Maybe that's why Pete Amderson spoke with a smile.


 
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Kevin2602
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Post by Kevin2602 » Wed. Oct. 22, 2008 6:39 am

Hi All,

Up and running! Photos forthcoming.

Need to make some adjustments. We used the second floor zone as the "dump zone;" was 78 degrees this am. Initially set boiler controls to 180 high; 150 low and 15 degree diff; I turned it down to 160/130 and 15 after getting up this morning - seems like each time the boiler fires, automatically sends to the dump zone. Further the Combustion tube is full of coal - which the manual says it should be but the boiler continues to cycle???

AA manual recommends initial settings of 190 hi; 165 lo and 10 degree diff. Seems too high and too short of a duty cycle. When all else fails follow the manual???

Understand it will take a while to "dial in." My plumber/installer has been great and has assured me he will follow-up to get the settings right but this is his first AA so any help with the initial settings would greatly appreciated. I have no fears of being cold this winter - maybe I can use the second floor as a sauna!

Regards,

Kevin

 
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LsFarm
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Post by LsFarm » Wed. Oct. 22, 2008 3:42 pm

Hi Kevin, the boiler will cycle frequently.. it doesn't get much heat from the idling fire into the water.. and it doesn't hold much water, something like 25 gallons or so.. So anytime heat is called for, it will cycle.. it doesn't store much heat..

If you want to reduce the cycling some, increase your differential to 20 or 25*

Greg L

 
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Freddy
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Post by Freddy » Wed. Oct. 22, 2008 4:58 pm

Does the dump zone have a pump and a flow check? Just this morning I spoke with Pete Anderson & he was saying the AA130 rarely, if ever, needs a dump zone. I put one in just for grins, but it has not hit high limit yet, nor do I expect it to. How is your dump zone wired? It almost sounds like it has no flow check and gravity is heating that zone.


 
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Kevin2602
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Post by Kevin2602 » Thu. Oct. 23, 2008 8:42 am

Thanks Greg and Fred.

Turns out the 2nd floor zone was inadvertently wired open which caused the whole issue - simple fix and all seems to be working now (I feel like a new nervous parent !!!). In fact, it is working very nice.

For Fred, the dump zone is a Honeywell control on the AA that opens up the 2nd floor zone (I could have picked any or all) in the even the water temp exceeds whatever variable temp we sent it to (currently 210 ish); idea is to prevent the pressure relief from putting water all over the basement floor. I agree, watching the AA cycle it is hard to imagine the boiler would ever exceed the 30 PSI to activate the pressure relief (has not yet exceeded 20 PSI). My installer was just trying to do the best job he could by adding the dump zone - it is his first AA but he has a lot of experience with wood boilers. No waste since we can use the same control for a more elegant solution of activating my propane boiler in the event the AA goes cold (not that I think that is likely either).

Particularly for Greg's benefit (from what you said from past posts of how you are doing your hot water), if you are interested, I will post the photos and description of how he did a loop back from the propane hot water heater and the AA hot water coil - really slick - I should never have to burn propane again. Installer put a thermostat control such that if the water in the hot water tank drops below a certain temp it pumps it back to the aa for a reheat. It was another pump and control (approx $400) but it will pay for itself. When the hot water tank goes (already 20+ years) I will replace it with a cheap electric (~$300) versus a $1000+ gas direct vent or superstor.

Only a few days into it and I am loving my AA!

Thanks for the prompt responses,

Kevin

 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Thu. Oct. 23, 2008 8:45 am

Freddy wrote:Just this morning I spoke with Pete Anderson
Are you sure about that?

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