Adding Water Heating Coils to Harman SF 250

I have been pondering the installation of 2+ sections of clean 18" high cast iron radiator in my SF 250 on the inside of the stove (taking care to not block smoke passages, etc.). and use it to supplementally heat boiler water (Burnham C-4 Oil -fired), running it on a circulator and aqua stat, etc. Anyone out there ever tried this adventure in hydronics, (SPECIFICALLY using cast iron radiators as "boiler sections") or am I just asking for trouble?????
(I have extensively considered the coal boiler route. Looking at most hand fired steel boilers, it does not seem that they are any more substantial that what I am considering... I am aware of the design and testing ASME cert's that go into designing a boiler, and I am not bent on being a fool, just musing, that's all.....) Any ideas/ feedback??

I'm not familiar with your stove, but first gut reaction says that you're taking up a lot of space and that will change how your stove burns and effect efficiency. Other than that, make sure you have relief valves, one near the stove, one on the tank & give 'er a go! I think you'd want a circulator pump too. I don't know how gravity would take to all those corners.

I had a friend that used small cast iron radiator sections as a domestic hot water coil in natural gas furnace. He had all the skills, equipment and time to make it work. Much too much work for me. He said it worked well.

Personally I think you are creating trouble for yourself. Have you folded up a cardboard box the size of the radiator sections you suggest and see if it will fit through the door??

Don't forget that coal creates fly ash.. so you need to be able to access the top of whatever you put in the stove to clean the flyash off of the top surface.. or it will get insulated by the ash.. notice that Harman puts an access door on the heat exchanger so you can cleanit out.. it does need cleaning a time or two a season.

If you do put in a water heater inside the firebox, be aware that the stove's hot air output will be lessened.. that is something to consider..

Hope this helps.. Greg L

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Thanx to all for your input. I did take measurements, and noted locations of various features inside the firebox, and 18" sections will fit and could be positioned without modifying the stove except for the inlet and outlet holes, and some manner of fastening the sections in place. Though my description was not highly detailed, I had accounted for cleaning off the fly ash, as well as considering the BTU's being drained from the stove by the presence of a water-filled radiator sections. I suppose that may possibly have an effect on the way the stove drafts, both due to the presence of the radiator sections, as well as the resultant heat-loss. Like I stated in my original post, not looking to bring trouble on myself, but seeing if one can build a better mouse trap, somtimes creates better mousetraps; sometimes you just have another mousetrap .....

Keep sending info, opinions, and pix if you have 'em. Thanx!!!