Instead of drilling through the stove I was wondering how well a water to air, or in this case air to water heat exchanger would work for a Pioneer LE top vent stove? Placed on top of the stove in a home made ducting system that is pulling air into other rooms through out the house while heating the fins/water as the air passes through it? http://ctwoodfurnace.com/parts_water_to_air.htm Anyone have any idea what the temperature is going to be from the air coming out of the top vent holes and any idea how hot the water would get coming from the heat exchanger? These seem to be rated by gpm at x amount of water temperature, how does one figure out gpm based on PSI or can they not?
**Broken Link(s) Removed** Would the heat temperature coming off the stove be able to use the same ratings but in a reverse fashion or at least with in the same ball park?
Water to Air Heat Exchanger
- coaledsweat
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No, air is a very poor conductor of heat.
- Adamiscold
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How would it be much different then having a coil inside the stove? The air temperature wouldn't be as hot but it still should be very close to it since it's only about a foot away from where a coil would go.
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Think of it this way.
What is the difference of your hand a foot off the stove verses leaving it inside the stove for but a moment?
Water in direct contact with the hot metal inside the stove has a high capacity to suck up Btu's.
The water has a greater ability to conduct and transfer the energy than air.
Water is denser and conducts better than air.
Air is more of an insulator when compared to water.
More coffee please!
Thermal density. Usually the more weight the better, iron verses ceramic.
Conductive. Copper pipe verses brick.
What is the difference of your hand a foot off the stove verses leaving it inside the stove for but a moment?
Water in direct contact with the hot metal inside the stove has a high capacity to suck up Btu's.
The water has a greater ability to conduct and transfer the energy than air.
Water is denser and conducts better than air.
Air is more of an insulator when compared to water.
More coffee please!
Thermal density. Usually the more weight the better, iron verses ceramic.
Conductive. Copper pipe verses brick.
- Adamiscold
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I hear you, just figured the air temperature coming off the stove was going to be at least 200 degrees and but installing a heat exchanger it would give you a good three or four times the area to be heated. So this wouldn't work even if it was laying on top of the stove? Couldn't you get some type of heat from it to heat water? Does something like this not work at all?
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- LsFarm
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There is one forum member who put an A/C condenser on top of his stove and piped water through it.. he posted photos and his learning experiences..
Since he had the A/C condenser, and didn't want to buy the HilKoil SS water loop, he was money ahead...
He had leaks, and a noticable reduction of heat from the stove,,
The temperature inside the stove, just over the fire is 1500*, the average flue pipo temp is around 500* measured at the stove exit.. so the temps inside are considerably hotter than the outside..
Heat moves across a temperature differential.. so MUCH more heat flows across a ~1000*-to-55* temperature differential than will flow across a ~200*-to-55* differential.. even with much more area.
Your idea will work, but I'd not spend money on it,, if you have a spare automotive radiator or A/C condenser, give it a try.. but if you are paying for parts and supplies.. go with the inside the stove coil.. it will work best.
Greg L
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Since he had the A/C condenser, and didn't want to buy the HilKoil SS water loop, he was money ahead...
He had leaks, and a noticable reduction of heat from the stove,,
The temperature inside the stove, just over the fire is 1500*, the average flue pipo temp is around 500* measured at the stove exit.. so the temps inside are considerably hotter than the outside..
Heat moves across a temperature differential.. so MUCH more heat flows across a ~1000*-to-55* temperature differential than will flow across a ~200*-to-55* differential.. even with much more area.
Your idea will work, but I'd not spend money on it,, if you have a spare automotive radiator or A/C condenser, give it a try.. but if you are paying for parts and supplies.. go with the inside the stove coil.. it will work best.
Greg L
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- Adamiscold
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Dang man everybody has to pee on my parade
OK, so am I safe to assume that if I go with one of these http://www.hilkoil.com/product.htm that since the inside width is only 14 inches that the coil would be best to go in close to the very top through the side of my Pioneer and that the larger one would fit without interfering with anything? I don't have it assembled yet so I'm thinking that is the only spot where nothing but air would be next to it.
OK, so am I safe to assume that if I go with one of these http://www.hilkoil.com/product.htm that since the inside width is only 14 inches that the coil would be best to go in close to the very top through the side of my Pioneer and that the larger one would fit without interfering with anything? I don't have it assembled yet so I'm thinking that is the only spot where nothing but air would be next to it.
- LsFarm
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Email, or post the question to Jerry on the LeisureLine forum.. He can advise where to mount the coil.. usually just above the coal fire and near the top of the stove where the heat is greatest..
Nothing wrong with innovation and invention.. that's how new advances come about.. but this one has been tried, and the SS coil inside is the best way.
Greg L
Nothing wrong with innovation and invention.. that's how new advances come about.. but this one has been tried, and the SS coil inside is the best way.
Greg L
- Adamiscold
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Cool, thanks Greg.