About to burn... baro for an AA?? Question!

Re: About to burn... baro for an AA?? Question!

PostBy: pret On: Thu Jul 31, 2008 6:48 am

Thanks Freddy... that makes sense. You have your AA yet? Counting down to the seconds for delivery? I'm telling ya - tis so sweet!
pret
 

Re: About to burn... baro for an AA?? Question!

PostBy: Freddy On: Thu Jul 31, 2008 11:37 am

My Axeman was shipped yesterday. I'd guess a week or so to get here. It needs to make a couple of stops along the way. It was much cheaper to switch trucks half way here. I think I just piddled my pants a little!
Freddy
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 130 (pea)
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Reading piece o' junk in the barn (rice)
Coal Size/Type: Pea size, Superior, deep mined

Re: About to burn... baro for an AA?? Question!

PostBy: Sting On: Thu Jul 31, 2008 12:26 pm

:mad: cheese and rice

and folks say I have dirty fingers

change that Aqua Stat pret, to a 20 degree diff rather than only 10

The applinace will run longer but less often and more efficiently than with only a 10 diff,
Sting
 
Other Heating: OBSO Lennox Pulse "Air Scorcher" burning NG


Re: About to burn... baro for an AA?? Question!

PostBy: LsFarm On: Thu Jul 31, 2008 12:43 pm

Hi pret, the problem is at least partially your timer.. a two minute burn is too much. remember the function of the timer is just to keep the fire alive.. with your boiler in a nice basement room in a new house, there is very little heat lost to radiant, like it would be in an old damp stone cellar... so your boiler doesn't loose any heat hour to hour if there is not any hot water used..

So every time the timer runs,, it bumps up the water temp, then bumps it again, and again... soon you will be at the max temp that the timer's high limit aquastat is set at and the timer won't run 'cause the water is too hot..

I'd find a timer that is settable to 30 seconds per hour, or at a minumum 1 minute per hour... my AA260 does bump up the water temp some from the timer's burns, but it's only a few degrees.. even when the outdoor boiler room is in direct 95* sun and heat... So I think you are getting too long a burn on the timer..

But if you just turn it off, then your fire will shrink to a central ball of fire, with some ashing problems .. I'd find a better timer.

It will take several days to generate ash in the ash pan.. you are just maintaining a fire right now.. BE HAPPY,, in the winter you will be emptying an ashpan every few days.. :D Right now I empty my ashpan every week, and it's not full... in the winter every day or two, depending on weather/temps.

It sounds like you are zeroing in on the settings... 160* high with 20* differential should work, and a one minute keep fire burn every hour or two.

Greg L.
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

Re: About to burn... baro for an AA?? Question!

PostBy: pret On: Thu Jul 31, 2008 6:21 pm

Now I'm having CO problems in the house... gone for a about 6 hours - the boiler didn't run since maybe 10pm last night - at 4pm today I come home to an alarm - the memory said the highest level hit was 95. The detector is in the basement - the dog was still kicking on the first floor :?

I'm going to see if the hardware store that I bought the timer from will give me credit to a better timer. That was such a pain to wire - should have got the best from the start :mad:

I'm also having problems with the aquastats. The boiler won't run unless the timer is powering it. Don't see the problem yet. The aquastat clicks with the temp dial is turned to the current water temp... but no power to the blower. I have a picture of the atastat on the first page... can someone decipher the wiring? I have nothing hooked up to the circulator on the second aquastat, but I do have the power coming to the second aquastat from the first via the circulator controls on the first aquastat. The idea here (Coal Berner of course) is to shut down the boiler if I encounter an outfire. The circulators are controled by a central relay board on the wall inside the boiler room.

Thanks for the cheese and crackers! Tasty - made the changes... but I'm still having the difficulty mentioned above.

Man... does this get easier? Pret.
pret
 

Re: About to burn... baro for an AA?? Question!

PostBy: beatle78 On: Fri Aug 01, 2008 3:24 pm

I'm glad you are almost there, and this thread has taught me a bunch.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but CO could only come from a few places.

1. Baro (most likely)
2. fire observation hole
3. ash pan door
beatle78
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker KA-4

Re: About to burn... baro for an AA?? Question!

PostBy: LsFarm On: Fri Aug 01, 2008 5:09 pm

If the timer is not running, the chimney will cool off, and you will have no draft... you really need to measure your draft [buy,beg, borrow a Manometer]. With the timer running every hour for 1 minute, you should have no CO issues.. with a hot summer day, and a tight house and boiler room, without an outside air source,, the chimney draft may have reversed itself...

Greg L..
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

Re: About to burn... baro for an AA?? Question!

PostBy: pret On: Fri Aug 01, 2008 8:22 pm

I have a manometer and an RC on the way... I haven't had CO issues since yesterday. Last night I moved the detector into the boiler room and increased the draft to maximum! The detector is about 25 feet from the boiler - no CO!

We discussed already that the timer I have is a bit inadequate being that the minimum time it runs per hour is 2 minutes. What I'm going to try tomorrow - after I get the fire going good... (had my first outfire today!... I'm not going to report how I got it going again because I'm sure it's totally wrong!) - is try the 15 minute cycle and have it burn 30 seconds every 15 minutes. What that will do (I hope) is to overshoot the high limit (currently 155... eventually working it down to 145) by maybe a couple degrees... which will last about an hour or so before the temp drops down below high set point... soon after which the boiler will run another 30 seconds every 15... until the boiler is up at max temp again. This will take some close observation... to determine the best setting given my timer situation and inconsistent hot water demand (family of 5 - three children under 6 yrs).

Beatle78... I think the majority of the CO came from the observation port... path of least resistance. I had the baro set for
minimum draft :mad: ... IDIOT! I won't do that again!

Oh... because the boiler room is in the basement next to the first floor garage, I drilled two holes into the garage to allow outside air into the boiler room. One hole is 1.5 inches and the other is a 2 inch. Both are in different areas of the boiler room - about 9' off the floor of the basement, but only 4" off the floor of the basement. I'm getting some air exchange - and I have three windows in the garage that are cracked about an inch each. This should help. I'm willing to drill more holes if need be - I know Yanche stated that outside air should have access to the boiler room from the ceiling and the floor - I don't know how I'd get the access near the basement floor short of some excavation that I'm not willing to do. I do know - after some simple calculations, about 4" would work for my situation.

Freddy... did you clean up that piddle? Don't bother... you'll do it again :D
pret
 

Re: About to burn... baro for an AA?? Question!

PostBy: Freddy On: Fri Aug 01, 2008 8:42 pm

Turned out it was just sweat. Now I need an extra large hanky for the saliva.


It'll take you a while to get it dialed in. At some point you'll go weeks without looking at it....as long as you have a hired hand to empty the ahses. :) Keep up the good work, you're getting there!
Freddy
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 130 (pea)
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Reading piece o' junk in the barn (rice)
Coal Size/Type: Pea size, Superior, deep mined

Re: About to burn... baro for an AA?? Question!

PostBy: biggreen1 On: Fri Aug 01, 2008 11:33 pm

I'm learning alot on this thread and many others. My AA-130 should be done in a couple weeks. Getting everything ready for it is a big, part time job (well worth it though). No more foreign oil for my house, hurah. Great site and fantastic people.
biggreen1
 

Re: About to burn... baro for an AA?? Question!

PostBy: CapeCoaler On: Fri Aug 01, 2008 11:44 pm

I would be careful about using "garage air" into the boiler room and the house. Gasoline vapor/CO issue/building code issue. Outside air means air from outside the building envelope. The hi/lo openings are for furnaces/water heaters that need combustion air which are in rooms/closets and the net open area is determined by Btu rating of the device.
I did sleep at a Holiday Inn!
CapeCoaler
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: want AA130
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine BS#4, Harman MKII, Hitzer 503,...
Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Stove

Re: About to burn... baro for an AA?? Question!

PostBy: pret On: Fri Aug 01, 2008 11:58 pm

Hey Cape... if I had a 4" hole to the 'true' outside... would it be okay to leave the holes into the garage or should they be plugged?
pret
 

Re: About to burn... baro for an AA?? Question!

PostBy: Freddy On: Sat Aug 02, 2008 4:14 am

Geepers, how tired was to miss reading the holes went to the garage? They should be plugged.
Freddy
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 130 (pea)
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Reading piece o' junk in the barn (rice)
Coal Size/Type: Pea size, Superior, deep mined

Re: About to burn... baro for an AA?? Question!

PostBy: LsFarm On: Sat Aug 02, 2008 10:13 am

If you are going to have holes into the garage,, they must pull air from the ceiling area of the garage.. not the floor.. The floor of a garage is likely to have gasoline fumes..

I think we had a thread or exchanged PMs about building a wall around your window that you use to access your coal hopper from the garage.. it needs a 12-16" wall around the window well to prevent the heavy gasoline fumes from sinking and going into the basement of the house..

I had a friend who had fueled his snowmobile in his garage after a morning ride, spilled some gasoline, didn't think anything of it.. went out to breakfast,, came back to his how burnt down... The gasoline fumes went under the door into the house, and basement,, to the pilot light on the hot water heater.. and kaboom !! no more house..

So plug the holes to the garage floor,, make a vent to the ceiling of the garage if you want to use garage air..

Greg L
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

Re: About to burn... baro for an AA?? Question!

PostBy: pret On: Sun Aug 03, 2008 1:05 am

I may run pvc pipe through the holes and up to the ceiling - that wouldn't be too difficult.\

Well... I now have a leak in one of my dry-wells. I tried to fix it to no avail. My failed attempt consisted of relieving the pressure off the boiler water... and then using a cyliner to work rtv furnace cement along the wall where it's leaking. It's a small leak - about a drip every 3 minutes. I had a fan blowing in the hole while I did something else... the furnace cement looked dry and seemed dry when touched it with a 16 penny nail. About 30 minutes later I allowed the pressure in the boiler - but the leak continued. How do I fix this?? I just got the good burn started today - removed clinkers (one about 4 inch in diameter!) and began a good hot fire with some 150 year old oak (barn timbers) at the end of the ash grate and turned on the fan. I had my doubts... but it really worked! Matthaus... great idea! I also have the aquastat working as it should - now just need to get the timer hooked up properly. Anyone help me with the leak?

Thanks... Pret
pret