A Few Questions

 
jrn8265
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Post by jrn8265 » Mon. Aug. 04, 2008 6:40 am

Keystoker Koker Questions.

1. How many pounds does the ash pan hold?

2. How many pounds of coal do you burn on average?

3. Is it ok to place the unit directly on a piece of 3/4" plywoood that sits directly on a painted concrete floor?

Appreciate your thoughts.

Thanks!


 
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Richard S.
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Post by Richard S. » Mon. Aug. 04, 2008 7:07 am

jrn8265 wrote:3. Is it ok to place the unit directly on a piece of 3/4" plywoood that sits directly on a painted concrete floor?
Do you mean you want to place the stoker over a piece of plywood? Even if allowed I wouldn't consider doing that. I don't know about that particular unit but the larger stokers like the EFM's or my Van Wert don't have a bottom. Hot ashes could ignite the wood. Even if it has a bottom you're still running a risk. Any combustible material should be kept away from any stove that burns solid fuel.

 
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Post by jrn8265 » Mon. Aug. 04, 2008 8:09 am

So what should I place the koker on instead of plywood? Do you have any suggestions? Thanks!

 
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Devil505
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Post by Devil505 » Mon. Aug. 04, 2008 8:16 am

jrn8265 wrote:So what should I place the koker on instead of plywood? Do you have any suggestions? Thanks!
Why not just leave it on the concrete floor?

 
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LsFarm
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Post by LsFarm » Mon. Aug. 04, 2008 8:19 am

At the very least, place it on several layers of concrete 'backing board' that is used as underlayment for ceramic tile.. A koker is a rather 'industrial' looking heater, usually they go in a basement.. if it is going on a combustable floor, I'd pour a concrete pad to place it on. Assuming the combustable floor is strong enough to support both the Koker and the concrete..

Greg L

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Post by jrn8265 » Mon. Aug. 04, 2008 8:21 am

Thanks, it is going in the basement but I have water proofing and paint over my cement floor...I know wierd, just bought the house..so I think I'll put the koker on the concrete backing board per Greg on top of that paint/proofing. Thanks!

 
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Post by LsFarm » Mon. Aug. 04, 2008 8:25 am

If the Koker has a full floor in it's design, I'd just raise it up on some 2" concrete patio stones.. cheap, and will keep the moisture from the concrete floor from rotting the bottom of the cabinet.

.Greg L.


 
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Post by jrn8265 » Mon. Aug. 04, 2008 8:33 am

good idea with the patio stones.....maybe I'll make a 8' by 5' area of those stones layed tightly together on the cement floor....that what you thinking?

 
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Post by samhill » Mon. Aug. 04, 2008 8:45 am

I have a keystone koker that just sits on a rectangular concrete pad on the four corners to allow air flow under it. With a solid bottom there is plenty of strength & easier to vac for clean-up.

 
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Post by jrn8265 » Mon. Aug. 04, 2008 8:47 am

Samhill, so you just have 4 cement blocks, one under each corner of the koker? Also, can you share with me which side you load the 250lb hopper from? If you are looking at the front of the koker is it best to load it on the right side or left side? I Can't get my hands on a manual or picture of the hopper and how it opens. Thank you!!

 
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Post by samhill » Mon. Aug. 04, 2008 10:25 am

I`m not sure what the 90 looks like, I have the 160 add on furnace on that the hopper is in the rear (the glass being the front) & on my set up it`s easy to load from the back of the hopper. The concrete pads I use are the 0ne inch high ones, you should take into consideration the height of the hopper to make it as easy as can be to load. Hope this helps, I don`t know how simular the stoves are.

 
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Post by Razzler » Mon. Aug. 04, 2008 4:11 pm

What about a nice 8'x5' tile pad? Can lay it right on the concrete. Cheap tile from the big box store.. :|

 
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Post by CoaLen » Mon. Aug. 04, 2008 6:06 pm

We just installed a Koker in our basement and used four red bricks, one in each corner, as the base. This allows air to circulate underneath. I think this air circulation is important during the summer months.
The ash bucket is made of galvanized sheetmetal, 17 1/2 " dia by 11 1/2" high and is labeled "1 bushel" in size.
-Len

 
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Post by jrn8265 » Tue. Aug. 05, 2008 6:41 am

My concern is how hot the bottom of the koker gets. I have painted concrete floors....with the koker bottom 1" off the floor supported by only 4 bricks in each corner the heat might work on the painted floor in a bad way.....might just put down a complete 7'x5' layer of 1" patio bricks for it to sit on not touching the floor at all. Why the need for circulation under the koker? Thanks

 
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Post by coalkirk » Tue. Aug. 05, 2008 7:45 am

Concrete is very pourous and large amounts of moisture vapor come up out of the ground. By having the boiler elevated, you minimize the affect on the metal. (rust)


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