markviii wrote:You did a wonderful job getting that boiler cleaned up, it looks new. Did you get that gasket cement out of your eye yet? Make sure you have at least three screws in each joint of the stove pipe, if you ever get a "bump" from coal gas in the boiler you will need them.
Off topic: I clicked on your website, that is a beautiful Grand National.
Thanks,it did clean up pretty good. My eye is fine now-no lingering effects although I have 1 more appointment with the eye doc in a few weeks.
The Grand National is my baby. I just don't get the use out of it any more like I used to before I restored it. Now I'm afraid to get it wet or dirty. I have to get over that.
Freddy wrote:The CO issue with coal is that it makes CO constantly and if the chimney get's a down draft it can push CO into the house even though there is no problem with anything. Also, coal makes fly ash that will settle on any horizontal surface. If not cleaned when needed things will get clogged and then the CO has no chimney to get into. I'm glad to hear you have plenty of detectors. Modern technology....gotta love it!
Doesn't anything that burns produce CO? Is the danger with coal more significant because there is little or no smoke associated with it so that a downdraft doesn't produce the smoke and smell of a wood fire?
One CO detector is in the cellar and another on the first floor in front of the cellar door,plus there is another on the first floor and 2 on the 2nd floor. That should be reasonably safe. Maybe I will go by a canary to augment the system.
LsFarm wrote:Your firebox and brick look good, you will be able to mound the coal in the center to get an over 10" deep bed of coal... But I'm currious, you mention a shaker handle, but I don't see any way that the grate can move, rock or slide?? Am I missing something?? Usually the grate has interlocking 'fingers' that mesh together to allow the grate to rock and shake the ash down through the gaps..
The shaker handle is on the right ,front and shakes the whole grate back and forth. There really is no scraping action. I found that it worked best with quick, sharp movements. I'm sure I may need to use the poker from underneath to help sift the ash through. I might actually make something that I can sort of "comb" through the grate from the bottom. Like a" poker comb".UUUUU---------------
I might be able to raise the firebrick another 3" if I cut the brick and and rest it on top of what is there now except I need to come up with a system to help hold it in place.
titleist1 wrote:The sloped firebrick chamber in your stove looks like what is in the US Stove models. Others on here have been able to get them to burn coal adequately with some tweaking, you may want to look through those threads to see what was necessary if you run into problems keeping the coal fire hot and giving you a long burn time. I remember some adding a blower on the ash pan door to improve combustion air to the bottom of the fire. I think there were some other tweaks, but I can't remember.
I have read many posts on the US Stove and Big Bertha but I'm going to read all that again. I think the brick in mine is just a little steeper (more vertical) maybe?? The air inlet is in the back and is probably about 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 with the flapper wide open. I suppose I could add a blower to that inlet if I just box all around the inlet so as not to interfere with the flapper door. We'll see how it goes on its own first.
WOW, that thing is a twin to my Steel King, even the color matches.
Can you still get grates for it? I might get lucky and they will fit.
You are going to want to plug those holes up and check the airbox in the back for holes too. No overfire air with anthracite.
Hydrafire is long gone I guess. I can't find a single reference to it on the internet. I'll have to scan the pamphlet that I have with the specs and sales jargon. Its pretty funny reading because it could have been written exactly the same way today and yet it was written 28-29 years ago. Some things just haven't changed the $$$ is just higher.
So, no. Can't get any parts for it other than the pumps and electrical stuff made by others. The only over fire air is te 2 small holes in the frontdoor. The pamphlet says" Secondary air ducts: Wood and bituminous coal burning produce highly volatile gases. Secondary air permits more complete combustion reducing both emisions and creosote." It also says that it is designed for anthracite and wood but can be adapted to bituminous and waste materials-but it doesn't state what is needed. I may just tap the holes and block them but I will probably experiment with and without to see what affect they have.Easy enough to do. I hope I can get this beast to work with coal. At least with the Blashack I should have a decent coal to experiment with.
Well, more for me to read. Thanks for the input guys. I do really appreciate it.