Hot Water Tempering Valve

 
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Machinist
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Post by Machinist » Sat. Aug. 09, 2008 10:57 pm

I just picked up a Honeywell thermostatic tempering valve from Home Depot for about $80.
It is the one that only goes up to 120 degrees. I forgot to check the temp range at the store. :oops:
I hope it's hot enough, I'm used to the hot water water from a oil fired summer/winter supply without a tempering valve.

 
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vtec350
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Post by vtec350 » Sat. Aug. 09, 2008 11:03 pm

Mine has a range from 120*-160*, I keep it around 140* and seems to be hot enough, not sure if 120* will be hot enough for them hot winter showers.

 
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Adamiscold
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Post by Adamiscold » Sun. Aug. 10, 2008 7:31 am

This is what we use
**Broken Link(s) Removed**. You have four different number settings to choose from to get the temperature to were you want it. Bottom line though the water coming out of the shower head can not get any hotter then what the boiler is producing. The hotter the water the more energy and money needed to make the water stay at that temperature setting.

 
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Post by e.alleg » Thu. Aug. 14, 2008 12:26 am

I installed a Watts $29.99 special and now it's a plumbing ornament. It didn't work very well, most of the time it allowed too much cold water in so the temp was never hot enough. They must err on the side of safety. Now I run the water full temp. The water doesn't instantly come out 160 degrees, it gradually gets hotter until common sense says turn up the cold! I like it because I can make Ramen noodles from the sink.

 
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StanT
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Post by StanT » Sat. Sep. 27, 2008 6:19 am

Could you do the same thing with ball valves?

Thanks, Stosh


 
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Post by Freddy » Sat. Sep. 27, 2008 10:58 am

StanT wrote:Could you do the same thing with ball valves?
Not really. As the water coming from the boiler changes from low limit to high limit. As the boiler tamp changes the mixing valve makes up for the difference.

 
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Post by rouxzy » Sat. Sep. 27, 2008 1:15 pm

I understand what the mixing valve does as far as mixing cold water with hot to get a desired safe temp. But what if the hot water from the coal stove not supply a constant water temp? Would you then be adding too much cold water to the hot if the hot temp had dropped coming from the stove?
Tom

 
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Post by LsFarm » Sat. Sep. 27, 2008 2:21 pm

It mixes the right amount of cold water, based on the output temp of the mixed water... too cold, less cold water, too hot, more cold water.. it's a constant adjustment.

Greg L

 
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Post by Scottscoaled » Sat. Sep. 27, 2008 9:32 pm

I like the idea that you can make a little hot water go a long way.Not that I'm short of hot water around here :) In the house next door there was not alot of space for an electric water heater. With a tempering valve sitting on top of a 120volt 30gallon water heater, 4 people can take showers one right after the other. I turned the temp on the heater up as far as it will go. Works geat! :) Scott

 
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Post by Freddy » Sun. Sep. 28, 2008 4:15 am

stokerscot wrote:I like the idea that you can make a little hot water go a long way
Yup, one customer with an indirect hot water heater bought a hot tub and then didn't have enought hot water to fill it. The simple fix was a mixing valve and turn the tank temp up to 170.
Last edited by Freddy on Sun. Sep. 28, 2008 9:18 am, edited 1 time in total.


 
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Highlander
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Post by Highlander » Sun. Sep. 28, 2008 8:37 am

I have the same valve, the Honeywell / Sparkomatic rated for 120 deg, (antiscald rated) and its fine for my family. You don't want water hotter than 120 coming out of the faucets especially with children or elderly people in the house.

 
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Post by Motorbike » Mon. Sep. 29, 2008 12:38 pm

I was told by my plumber that code only allows the mixing valves that go up to 120 degrees, for anti-scald.
They do make mixing valves that have the same range, but go all the way up to 180 degrees. Typically these are used in other heating applications (radiant). I elected to go with the valve with a higher adjusting limit, to make it easier to dial in the temperature that I want.
Also, there are junk mixing valves, and good mixing valves. So if it's cheap, it probably won't last long.

 
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Post by e.alleg » Wed. Oct. 01, 2008 11:16 pm

I should add that in my setup there is a minimum of 100' of pipe between the boiler and the closest faucet due to the previous owner liked running pipes all over the place. The water loses some temperature in between so if the tempering valve sets it to 120 at the boiler it will be cooler at the shower head, in real cold weather it will lose quite a bit in the crawl spaces. Insulation is in the works.

 
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Post by Freddy » Thu. Oct. 02, 2008 4:53 am

e.alleg wrote:it will lose quite a bit in the crawl spaces. Insulation is in the works.
Save your pennies and someday invest in a re-surc line. That is, a second hot water line and a broze pump. I put a switch under the sink so people can shut them off in the summer if they want.... but no one does. The second line tees in at the point furthest from the hot water tank and the pump makes hot water go in circles all the time. Insulate both pipes and you have instant how water at all your taps. It does use some hot water, but in the winter it's all just heat in the house.

My tank is 40ish feet from the sink and in the basement. I don't use a pump, it just gravities and works well. We draw less then one cup of water before we have water hot enough to use.

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