Manometer Question

Manometer Question

PostBy: traderfjp On: Thu Aug 07, 2008 1:29 am

I finally got around to installing my Dwyer Manometer II. The install went well and I also went back and sealed the pipes going out the side of the stove for the coil. My question is that I'm not sure how I would zero in the Manometer when the stove is running. Right now I poured my oil in and followed the directions and the liquid inside the meter is at 0. Once the stove is running how would I zero out the unit? I'm guessing I would simply remove the tube going into the stove and the re-adjust the meter? (not too simple since I glued the rubber pipe into my copper line) Is that correct? Also, if the device stays level is it necessary to re-calibrate the meter and if so how often?

Thanks
Attachments
meter.jpg
(474.02 KiB) Viewed 35 times
View: New PagePopup • Select:BBCode
[nepathumb]5208[/nepathumb]
pipes.jpg
(848.03 KiB) Viewed 18 times
View: New PagePopup • Select:BBCode
[nepathumb]5209[/nepathumb]
traderfjp
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Channing 3

Re: Manometer Question

PostBy: LsFarm On: Thu Aug 07, 2008 7:19 am

You are correct, just pull the pipe out of the flue, let the red fluid settle down, adjust the zero and reinstall the pipe in the flue.. You really dont' have to adjust it very often. having an exact draft is not necessary.. +/- .01" is close enough.. and that is about all the zero changes with temp and atmosperic pressure..

Greg L
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

Re: Manometer Question

PostBy: Freddy On: Thu Aug 07, 2008 7:59 am

If it's a pain to pull it out of the stove, can you just pull the pipe out of the device to zero it? Or does the tube have to be full lenght to zero it? That second floppy tube I think you can just remove.
Freddy
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 130 (pea)
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Reading piece o' junk in the barn (rice)
Coal Size/Type: Pea size, Superior, deep mined


Re: Manometer Question

PostBy: traderfjp On: Thu Aug 07, 2008 9:52 am

Freddy - I'm not sure. I don't have the gauge going into the Barometric damper since I have a DV and there is no room. When I was installing my coil I made two holes in the top of the stove for eye bolts to hold the coil or take the stress of the weight off the fittings/connections. I only ended up needing one hole. So I installed the draft guage using the hole in the top of the stove. I have a cast iron hood so the tubing can't be seen. Now that I'm looking at it. I guess I can simply pull the rubber tubes from the draft guage and re-calibrate as needed. We shoud have a FAQ on how to setup the Manometer. I found it was much easier to level the guage before it's installed and add the oil at that time.
traderfjp
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Channing 3

Re: Manometer Question

PostBy: gambler On: Thu Aug 07, 2008 10:28 am

I pop the hose off of the gauge to zero it. Maybe I over do things but I check zero on my gauge about every couple of days.
gambler
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Leisure Line
Stove/Furnace Model: Pioneer


cron