If you are considering ordering a new efm DF520...

It isn't necessary to order the entire stoker/boiler package !

1. Some people don't need a domestic water coil because they use an indirect water heater. If so, order a boiler without a coil and use a cover plate in case you ever change your mind. Savings: $$ Several Hundreds $$ If you will never need a coil, you can even order a boiler without a coil flange. You will not be able to ever mount a coil, but will never have to worry about a leak. Possible time delay for construction.

2. Some would like the coil but want a 7 GPM coil instead of the standard 5 GPM coil. If so, upgrade to a 7 gallon coil. Cost: Slight increase.

3. An outfire prevention control does not come with a new unit. You can use an L6006A or C, or even an L4006B aquastat to accomplish this. Cost: Slight increase. It's better to have one, rather than shovel several hundred pounds of coal out of the stoker base if your fire goes out and you aren't home.

4. Extra ash cans are always handy. Who immediately empties an ash can and puts it back into use? Not me. Cost: Minor.

5. The standard aluminum burner end pipe might last 20 years, but the optional stainless steel pipe might last a lifetime. Cost to upgrade: Moderately expensive.

6. Some localities require a low water cutoff. They are available.

7. Two types of (bin) pipe couplings are available. The standard pipe coupling is the solid coupling. An optional coupling is a split coupling. The split coupling makes life easier if you need to work on the worm. Cost: Very minor.

8. If an optional oil burner kit is desired and you already have a good chassis, you can re-use the old oil burner, with the new air tube and nozzle. Savings: A few hundred.

Any add-ons or swaps or removals should be discussed with your efm dealer before your order is placed.

If you are really cheap like me you can make your own coupler and bin side pipe from your local scrap yard. Cost is about the same as a 30 pack of beer.

Is that 30 pack consumed before or after the pipe cutting? Can I see your cuts?

I'm talking about the pipe that goes from the coupler into the bin. I used a Stihl chop saw, like a hot knife through butter. The coupler I made is thick wall pipe, I cut it about 10" long, drilled 4 holes in it and tapped the holes, files off all the burs, coated the inside with anti-sieze, slid both pipes until they hit and and used hex head bolts to secure both pipes to the coupler. It hasn't moved. I made the pipe that goes into the pot as well, it's stainless and I drilled a slot and vent holes in it. If I had a dealer near me that was friendly I would have just bought the parts but I don't and it was getting cold so I made due. I live in oil country so quality USA made heavy duty pipes are readily available. There are pipes buried in my yard from the 1880's that are still good. I knock off the rust and they hold up fences.

I'm with you. I would make my own pipes too.

e.alleg,

I recently bought a used EFM 520 that the prior owner could not locate the bin pipe, coupler or the bin worm. I know why they couldn't locate the worm. Whoever unhooked it tried to seperate the worm pieces and twisted the worm off because they didn't know it was left handed threaded.. I found the threaded end still in the burner worm. I'll need to get that out.

As I was researching the replacement parts I was quite shocked at the cost for the coupler and somewhat by the bin pipe. You say similiar materials are available at a scrap yard. What should I be looking or asking for to make my own? I guess what I'm asking is there a particular pipe that is common that would work as a bin feed pipe and also for a coupler. I have a drill press and taps and access to a cutoff saw.

That way I could get by just ordering the bin worm.

On a side note. Does anyone know what would be a close match for the EFM blue paint for the outside covers? I want to sand the old ones, prime them, and then try and paint them to match everything else if possible.
I'm sure there will be other questions later on as I rebuild this old EFM. I am guessing about 20 years old going by the prior owners timeline and the access door to the burn pot being square.

Thanks
Stan

I can give you the paint color. Bruning Silathane #52034 Blue is an exact match. In a high gloss acrylic enamel made by Majic "Diamond Hard", the forumula is 8-1505
I4 Kx2Y or KxZy (It's hard to read) I can check when I get a minute to breath. It's a modified form of Royal/Safety Blue.