Harman CW30: Fixable? Where Can I Get a Manual/Parts?

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Dance
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Post by Dance » Sat. Aug. 16, 2008 4:13 pm

Got a free Harman CW30 today.

Apparently the original owner fell asleep when he had it open, so he overheated it. He then took it out and left it outside for the last few years. The grates/shaker are stuck (won't turn with the side turned mechanism, I am not sure if it is rusted or if the overheating did something?), the doors don't want to open or close well (maybe rust or warped from overheating?), the windows were later busted out, and it is very rusty as he left it outside for the last couple of years.

I figured I would try to take it apart and get the grates/shaker to work if I can, then fix up the rest of it.

Where can I get a manual and parts from? It would really help to have a manual or at least a parts drawing of how it all fits together.

What kind of problems does overheating cause liek cracks, warping, etc?

Are overheated stoves usually fixable, or do they warp out of alignment and make themselves worthless?

Instead of putting in windows, would a flat sheet of steel be able to be used?

Thanks

 
Dance
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Post by Dance » Sat. Aug. 16, 2008 7:55 pm

Looks like the main problem is rust and caked on stuff in the inside. I got the grate/shaker working well.

 
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Adamiscold
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Post by Adamiscold » Sun. Aug. 17, 2008 7:15 am

Dance, free is always good if it's not going to cost you an arm and a leg to fix it. Sounds like the grates are warped and need to be replaced. I could only find this one other forum that had some spec sheets uploaded to it on a Harman “E” CW30. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/18322/ I don't know if yours is an "E" or even what "E" stands for but this site even has a pdf price file for replacement parts
**Broken Link(s) Removed**.

Good luck with it and don't forget the pictures, we love pictures :love:

 
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Adamiscold
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Post by Adamiscold » Sun. Aug. 17, 2008 7:40 am

After reading the thread on the specs of this stove the guy says that "There is no removable grate system, everything sits on the shakers." So if they are warped and not replaceable then it would seem either the stove is dead or it's going to take a lot of work to get some new ones installed.


 
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Razzler
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Post by Razzler » Sun. Aug. 17, 2008 10:28 am

Adamiscold wrote:After reading the thread on the specs of this stove the guy says that "There is no removable grate system, everything sits on the shakers." So if they are warped and not replaceable then it would seem either the stove is dead or it's going to take a lot of work to get some new ones installed.
I take it as theres no removable gates that would be used just for wood burning. You can burn wood or coal on the shaker grates. A buddy of mine has a Harman E and I know he bought new grates for it 2 years ago from a Harman dealer.

 
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LsFarm
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Post by LsFarm » Sun. Aug. 17, 2008 11:18 am

Anything and Everything is fixable... it just depends on the amount of time, effort and money you want to throw at it..

I'd first look at the grates closely, use a straight-edge of some sort, like a ruler or short board,, check to see if the grates are warped, that is sagging down in the middle.. this can keep them from rotating and meshing with each other correctly.

Then check to see if there is a baffle plate above the fire, sort of a shelf that makes the heat/fire come forward then back over the baffle to get to the exhaust exit.. If the baffle is cracked, or badly distorted, then maybe the stove was overheated.. BUT this doesn't mean it can't be used safely..

I'd get a can or two of PBS Blaster at your local automotive supply store [NAPA, AutoZone, etc] or some other good rust pennetrant. soak the pivot points, hinges and linkage for the shaker and the hinges and latch on the doors.. Don't forget the draft [air] control knobs or sliding doors.

just wiggle the parts, handles, doors every day, then apply more pennetrant,, in a few days it will loosen up.

Unless the stove, the door and grates look like they are so distorted that you think you are seeing them in a fun-house mirror, I'm pretty sure you can make this stove work for you,, you certainly can't critizize the price.

I'd plan on new gaskets all around, and I'd wait on deciding about glass or steel panels untill you discover how good the stove's condition is,, if it is stright and not warped,, I'd spend the $$ and bring it back to 'new' condition, and enjoy it!!

Please post some photos of the stove and the interior of the firebox. A photo of the bottom of the shaker linkage will help too.. There are plenty of guys here who can help [make suggestions] about getting your stove making heat.

Greg L

 
Dance
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Post by Dance » Sun. Aug. 17, 2008 5:05 pm

I have the shaker working well, it isn't warped. The hinges on the doors appear "loose", as the hinge part on the body of the stove bends/moves before the hinge part on the doors start to rotate.

Questions:
In the third picture (also the 5th picture): Are those elbows/protrusions in the space between the top outside door and the shakers supposed to hold something or do something?

In the sixth picture: The slot between the upper and lower doors has a piece of square stock in it that won't move so far. Should that slide? Its the dampner?

In the seventh/last picture: The bar on the bottom is the shaker bar. What is the 90 degree silverish elbow above it for?

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