New used Hitzer 30-95 with pic

Here are the factory chain setting on my stoves. These settings are from the very end of the chain which locks in the thermastate hook. (opposite of the tin flapper door) 30-95 = 5-1/2 inches , or 23 chain beads. 50-93 = 6 inches , or 25 chain beeds.

Awesome! That seems reasonable when I look at it. At that adjustment, even with the thermostat set to its lowest setting, the tin flapper door remains open about 1 1/4" measured horizontally at the bottom from the stove opening to the bottom edge of the flapper. I didn't actually measure it but its about 2 fingers width so its no more than 1 1/2". Stoves is not on and the temp is about 77 degrees.
I installed the new baro damper into a tee but I mounted it so that the bottom edge of the damper is even with the top edge of the stove and facing to the side. It may not be as convenient to clean the pipes as it would be if mounted in place of the top elbow but it won't be too bad. I painted the baro black but I masked off the RC label and the weight adjustment so they are unpainted. I painted inside and out. We have a large cast iron kettle that sits right in front of the damper so it doesn't show that much. I think the stove really looks good and fits the hearth more proportionally than the old Tempwood wood stove. I'll miss that stove. Not the wood mess,bark,sawdust,etc.but I'll miss the way that stove could burn 24/7 for a month and burn so completely that I could easily wait that long before having to scoop out the ashes. You would never find even a piece of wood bigger than 1/8" round in the ashes. I haven't sold it yet. Gonna wait to see how the coal works out first.

If you have at least 18" straight below the barometric you should be fine.
If you have the space have the barometric face the brick wall, check for clearance @ wide open, no one will see it.
Of course the reason for putting in place of the elbow is so you can vacuum the horizontal run which is where the ash will settle out.

Actually, I don't have 18" below the baro. I have a 90 dgree elbow connected to the stove and the tee attaches to that elbow. So that puts the bottom of the damper about 5" into a straight, vertical run. Below that straight run is the elbow to the stove. If I measure the outside length of the pipe (the outer part of the bend) I end up with about 16 1/2" to the bottom of the damper from the back of the stove. The Field R-C instruction sheet says to place the damper "close to the furnace but 18" beyond a stack switch (if used). Doesn't say how close to the stove you can go w/o a stack switch.Don't really know what a stack switch is and I don't have one anyway. I basically have it installed in the 2nd location pictured in fig-1 in the directions. Do you think this is a problem??? I may take a picture tomorrow and post it if I have time. Looking at it I thought it looked reasonable. My pipe is only 2" from the brick so that the stove does not sit to forward on the hearth so putting the opening in the back isn't an option. I think it looks fine anyway.

Others will chime in but I think it may end up higher.
The pipe to brick distance is a bit close.

The pipe to brick distance has always been about 2" to 3" using the wood stove with no damper. There is nothing to burn there- all brick, mortar and cement block behind. I have it about an inch closer this time due to the depth of the stove being a little deeper than the old stove was. Not sure why that would be a problem?? Also, if the damper is too close to the stove exit (not sure that I think it is) how might the problem show itself? The instructions seem to infer that closer to the heating appliance is a good thing-just stay 18" outboard of a stack switch if used. I'm guessing a stack switch might be an electric damper that opens or closes for some reason?? Or it might close off another exit from some other burning device? I dunno. Thanks for making me think-and giving me an uneasy feeling
Oh, ok I found some info on the stack switch. It's basically a heat probe that checks to see if an oil burner has ignited. Its an earlier version of the CAD cell that optically detects a flame when an oil burner fires up. If it sees no flame in a short time it just shuts the burner off so as not to be pumping unburned oil into the firebox. Like flooding an old carbed motor. So to me it is only important to maintain that minimum distance so as not to cool the heat sensor down and fool the sensor into thinking the burner isn't igniting. I guess time will tell. Here is link to stack switch: http://www.inspect-ny.com/heat/StackRelaySwitch.htm

Key words are all masonry. Brick face with studded wall behind equals future fire.

http://www.fieldcontrols.com/draftcontrol.php
Draft Control (Installation Options)

Recommended Locations for Field Draft Controls
For gas-fired equipment, the preferred location of the control is on the bull head tee. This location provides maximum relief of downdrafts with minimum positive pressure. (See Fig. 1, Dia. A-C)
With oil or solid fuels, the bull head tee is not recommended, so locate the control as shown. (See Fig. 1, Dia. D-J) These locations are acceptable for gas units as well. Except on forced draft systems, locate the control as close as possible to the furnace or boiler, at least 12" beyond a stack switch on oil-fired units, and at least 18" from a combustible ceiling or wall.

http://www.fieldcontrols.com/pdfs/02702600.PDF
http://www.fieldcontrols.com/pdfs/01428000.pdf

Hmmm...seems the various instructions are a bit different the M contradicts the location in a tee that is not allowed in an RC.
You can see how one might say 18" minimum to the stove from the PDF's but it does say "as close to the stove as possible"

Yes my chimney is solid masonry and about 30" thick and completely open on the back side all the way to the ceiling on the 2nd floor. there is about 2 ft. to the ceiling from where the elbow enters into the chimney flue on the stove side of the chimney. There is also very little horizontal run outside of the masonry chimney itself due to the fact that the elbow actually enters into the masonry and it has a small extension on it in order to reach the actual flue opening. So not much standing heat at the top of the pipe due to so little horizontal run. Only wall is on the right side which has a 2" air space as per code and this area is at least 3 ft from the stove pipe. The chimney has 3 flues Oil burner on the left, cellar wood/coal boiler on the right, and stove on first floor in the center flue. I also have a place for a wood stove to use the same flue as the oil burner in the 2nd floor master bedroom but I took that stove out cause we never needed the extra heat. Plenty of heat comes up the open foyer and heats the entire upstairs just from the stove on the first level. The opposite end is open with solid brick in the foyer as is the back side. So the chimney only has one end with a framed wall next to it but with 2" air space.Nothing to burn here.
I was not sure by your comment but I assumed you understood that was the case?
The last pdf file http://www.fieldcontrols.com/pdfs/01428000.pdf actualy shows a damper very close to the heater in the first horizontal run with no stack switch. That would be even closer to the stove than where mine is. You are right though in that the wording and the differences in the 2 models having some contradictions. Sometimes the more you know the less you know. I am thinking I'm OK and certainly safe at least. If the damper causes me some type of problem that can be easily moved further up if I need to. I have a feeling it will be all good. Are you uneasy about it still? BTW, have you begun installing your Hitzer insert yet? That looks mighty purdy!

Yes I did not know what was behind the brick face. Nothing but non combustibles, excellent!
I have been on demos where it was just a brick face and/or there was no gap and the wood behind it had been cooking very nicely!
One good hot fire and poof!
You should be fine with your location.
Another day and more continuing education credits earned!
No the install is on hold while work is being done on the crown of the chimney.
After 29 years it needs a little work to fix some of the original work that was not correct to begin with.

I think you got a great deal and the stove looks really nice with the new paint job. That new paint will make some stink and smoke. I'd recommend you fire it up while it's still nice enough to have your windows open to cure it. One good hot fire should do the trick.

Cure it outside with a short stovepipe!

Yup, I guess I should fire it up with the windows open. Better to do it outside but due to the weather I had to get it moved inside. I'll have to deal with the smoke and stink. It's just too heavy for me to try and move it again. Bad back and 1 strong wife -but too much to deal with again. I hate the end of summer but I am looking forward to lighting the coal fire (in both of my stoves). Do you think I should light a wood fire or two or just fire up the coal one time?

A wood fire should do the job. It would have been better to do it outside but I don't blame you for not moving it again.

Second the wood fire.
Keep it small to start.
The third you can have an almost normal fire.
The fourth, let it rip.
Broke in the VC Vigilant 27 years ago that way, cast iron never warped.

Well Bob considering I'm a day away from buying a new 50-93 with a blower shipped from Lehman's for $1749 and then another $251 for shipping to my door, I'd say $600 is a good deal. And you got coal too! I'm in Mass. also and I had all sorts of trouble finding anything new or used. Most were sold out until January. I did find one in CT but I'd have to pick it up and it was about $1900 without tax. Yours looks great!