New used Hitzer 30-95 with pic

Hi all. Well I think i made out OK locating this stove on Craigslist. It cost me $600. It had surface rust from sitting out in an enclosed.unheated porch. They took it out because they were unsure of the integrity of their 200 yr. old chimney. The great thing about it was that it came with 800 lbs of nut anthracite in bags from a local grain supply in Raynham. The bags just say deep mined anthracite. When he listed it on Craigslist he thought he had only 300 lbs of coal but when I got there he said he actually had a lot more than he thought . I had 2 friends and the owner help me load it up. We just unloaded it to my yard yesterday and I jumped all over it to clean and sand and repaint it all up. I took out the grates and firebrick and the doors and myself and my wife moved it up about 5 steps to go through the front door. Dang, it was still heavy. I am scheduled for a cortisone injection in my back this Tuesday so I gave it all I had. Anyway I thought I might try purdying it up just a bit with some detailing. My wife likes it- and so do I. This replaces my 35 yr old or so tempwood wood stove-which is still an awsome wood stove but not that attractive.
The Hitzer does not have the blower on it and I am fine with that. I have a large ceiling fan overhead that moves all that heat throughout the entire house (3000 sq ft. aprox.). Now my boiler is ready to burn coal also-always burned just wood in it but it is anthracite capable. I posted before about this boiler. I always found the first floor stove to be more efficient and warmer actually. I do get my domestic hot water from the boiler too. Not sure but I think most of my coal will be going into the Hitzer stove mainly for efficiency. My oil burner really doesn't run much just to make hot water. But I might give it a try with coal and see how it performs.Btw I have not connected the pipes to the stove yet. I just ordered a baro damper to complete the install. I also have a Tee that I am going to use to install the damper. Do you think I should have the baro face forward or to the side in the vertical pipe??

Two more pics.
I downloaded the Hitzer manual but it does not show how to adjust the chain for the heat control. Can someone help me with that? Also, there is an air inlet adjustment in the ash door but it doesn't really explain how these 2 air inlets need to be set and how they are different???? Confuse on that ,too. Other than that I am happy as a clam!

Nice lookin' stove! Scott

Replace the elbow with a tee and paint the baro black. Nice job with the paint. Good shape and not that expensive given the current market conditions.

CapeCoaler wrote:Replace the elbow with a tee and paint the baro black. Nice job with the paint. Good shape and not that expensive given the current market conditions.

So replace the top elbow with the tee and have the Baro facing forward (so I am looking directly at it when facing the stove)? When I set it up like that which side will the weight on the damper be? In other words will it be set up as vertical or horizontal. Since it is right at the junction of both will the markings on the baro be as accurate as it would be in the middle of a horizontal or a vertical run? I don't want to get anal about it. I'm just wondering. And thanks. I have a feeling that this is going to be waaay better heating up the house than the smaller tempwood wood stove just by looking at it.

Anyone have any input on the setup of the thermostat chain. I don't know how much slack -if any- should be in the chain and at what temp setting it should be adjusted to be closed or open?? No idea. Right now I set the thermostat setting to the lowest # and took all the slack out of the chain with the damper door shut. Surely this adjustment info should be in the manual but he one I downloaded says nothing about it. I also don't know where the slide on the ash door should be set at or how this is actually determined. I guess eventually I'll figure it out when I start to burn but I'd think it would be explained somewhere.

stokerscot wrote:Nice lookin' stove! Scott

Thanks- but my name is Bob

Hence the need for a manometer! Need to dial the baro in. The marks are meaningless in the hybrid location.
manometer install
Baro damper?
Manometer Loaner Program
Was that paint you used Buick Black?
There are several Hitzer free standing users but you should move this to the hand fired section!
The front slider I believe would be for a base constant air and the thermostat keeps the stove from over or under firing if it is set halfway to start. The VC wood burner had a similar setup and worked well.
Did you see this?
http://www.hitzer.com/pdf/installation.pdf

OPERATING YOUR E-Z FLO
After proper installation you now are ready to start the fire and enjoy the comfort of
your heater. To start your E-Z Flo you open up the automatic damper on the rear of
your stove to #10. You need to open the slide damper in the ash door all the way.
Place kindling on grates, add a small amount of anthracite nut or pea coal on top of
kindling. Ignite the kindling. When the coal begins to burn add a small amount of
anthracite nut or pea coal until you have a large area of coal burning. Now begin to
fill your hopper slowly. (To fast may choke out the fire). When the coal is burning
properly and receiving and desired warm heat, adjust your automatic thermostat on
the rear for a desired temperature. Now regulate your slide draft on the ash door to
keep the stove burning at the temperature you desire.

There is more!

I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and get a manometer. No I did not use Grand National black paint I used Rustoleum semi gloss High heat. Used 3 1/2 cans altogether. I did read that pdf file but I must be stupid cause it just doesn't read right to me. Can't quite understand what they mean.
Now how do I move this post to the CORRECT forum?

Ask the Great, Merciful and Wise moderator to move this to the Hand Fired Manly Man section! Please. Oh and an offering of Beer or Coal!
The way I understand it
Wide open to start.
Get a bed of coal going.
Once the bed is going slowly add coal to the bottom of the hopper.
Once the bottom of the hopper is reached fill it.
Adjust Chain to #5 cut air to 50% on front slide
See where that gets you and adjust accordingly.
The chain is to maintain the temperature/setting, the front air slide determines heat output, more air more heat.
The barometric damper keeps draft from running wild.
There will be a learning curve. I have a 503 to be installed soon Hitzer 503 Arrives

Nice job Bob, looks very good. Great deal on the price!

Great job !!! I would say you got a very good deal on that stove. You should be able to find a manometer on ebay for a reasonable price or get one of the loaners from this site. Buying you own is a better idea. You can keep track of your draft and know when you are getting a build up of fly ash in your level section of stove pipe.

I also used the Rust-o-leum high heat ultra to paint my Kodiak. We'll see how it holds up.

Rust-o-leum high heat ultra to paint

What is the degrees rated to with it?

1200*. The thing I like with the Ultra is that it is a semi-gloss.I could only find high heat paint in spray cans.

It does have a nice deep black appearance and just enough gloss to really make things look nice in my opinion. I did buy a pint of flat black 1200 degree paint in a True Value Hardware store. I had used it on my old stove inside the house.I had a good brush but it still left brush marks and I didn't care for it. I ended up using 1200 degree semi gloss paint from Krylon over it (walmart) that is also very good. I used the Rustoleum this time mainly because the stove had already had some surface rust and it is designed to stop rust too.

Nice stove Bob. You'll like it a lot. looking at your pictures , it appears to be a model 50-93. If so , it would have 2 grates. Average operating settings are as follows. 1.) back dial is straight up & down. Without looking , I believe setting is #8. Front holes in draft door should be round. You can tweek it from there.

Duh! You are correct. I don't know how I mixed up the model # cause I knew it was the bigger one. Thanks for that info. What I'm trying to figure out is where to set the adjustable chain. I'm not sure at what dial setting or temp of the stove to set the chain and inlet flap so there is no slack? The chain can be connected at varios point. I was wondering if Hitzer has some sort of starting point for adjusting the slack. The info on the air inlet size may help. I'm sure I can get it figured out when it gets cold enough to lite it but I didn't know if there was a recommendation somewhere with regards to chain slack, dial settingm actual temp of stove while burning, and amount of opening for the flap-or closed -or whatever?