"Stops" For Harman Shaker Mechanisms?

Devil505 · By: **Devil505** On: Wed Aug 20, 2008 10:59 am

Now I'm thinking of getting real fancy! :lol:

If you look at the pic of the inside of the ash pan box & look at the rail (left hand side just below the arrow) ....If I drilled a few holes in this rail & mounted a flip-up lever, I could keep it flipped up to block the connecting rod assembly travel for regular shaking down, but then lower it to allow full travel for dumping.

Anyone have any ideas for a metal, sturdy flip-up lever?

LsFarm · By: **LsFarm** On: Wed Aug 20, 2008 11:42 am

Do the blocks have to be 1.25" wide?? if you can use 1"x1" then any steel shop can cut you some blocks,, 1" square hot rolled bar is cheap. Or buy a bar and get out your hacksaw,, and raise your body temp a degree or two !

Greg L.

Devil505 · By: **Devil505** On: Wed Aug 20, 2008 12:10 pm

LsFarm wrote:Do the blocks have to be 1.25" wide?? if you can use 1"x1" then any steel shop can cut you some blocks,, 1" square hot rolled bar is cheap. Or buy a bar and get out your hacksaw,, and raise your body temp a degree or two !

Nope....1" wide would be fine since the rail they are sitting on is about 1.5" deep & the connecting rod assembly appears to ride about 1/2"away from the stove wall.. Think Home Depot would have anything I could use?

LsFarm · By: **LsFarm** On: Wed Aug 20, 2008 3:22 pm

I'm not sure if HDepot would carry steel pieces that heavy, I know they have some assortments of steel rod and strap, but I'm not sure if they would have 1" square..
I would look in the yellow pages for steel suppliers.. My steel supplier has a scrap rack just inside the entrance door where they fill shelves with various short pieces of different types of steel, angle, flat stock, bars, square tube etc.. I'm sure most steel retailers would have something similar.. Shouldn't be more than a few bucks..

I'd mail you the blocks, but the postage would cost more than the steel !!

Greg L.

Adamiscold · By: **Adamiscold** On: Wed Aug 20, 2008 3:27 pm

I'd mail you the blocks, but the postage would cost more than the steel !!

Devil wouldn't mind as long as you were paying for the postage. toothy

Devil505 · By: **Devil505** On: Tue Aug 26, 2008 8:18 am

I replaced the wood block with a metal conduit pipe connector that fits perfectly! (standing up on the rail) :devil:

Adamiscold · By: **Adamiscold** On: Tue Aug 26, 2008 8:29 am

It's not as shiny as the tin foil.

Just think how great it would look if you only had a wet saw :yes:

That looks like it'll work just fine for you devil, nice work.

Devil505 · By: **Devil505** On: Tue Aug 26, 2008 10:36 am

Adamiscold wrote:t's not as shiny as the tin foil. Just think how great it would look if you only had a wet saw

I guess your right Adam. Basically the world can be divided between those who actually own a wet saw & those who can only wish they owned one.

Devil505 · By: **Devil505** On: Sun Nov 09, 2008 11:48 am

JB Sparks Just posted some pics of the much more professional block he made for his Harman furnace, but the idea should work for most Harmans. I'm working on a slant top design to shed ash better.

JB Sparks · By: **JB Sparks** On: Sun Nov 09, 2008 12:30 pm

Devil505
Attached are a couple of pic's showing the block with a sloped notch. i'll firing up the stove today as the temp is dropping. i'll let you know how it works. i think it will work much better cause ash shouldn't build up in the notch.

i see you found you ("stops") post. Very good!

JB

Devil505 · By: **Devil505** On: Sun Nov 09, 2008 12:34 pm

JB Sparks wrote:Attached are a couple of pic's showing the block with a sloped notch.

What the hell took you so long!! :lol:

(nice work!) :up:

(still looks like an awfully short throw for shaking down easily?? Let us know how it works)

JB Sparks · By: **JB Sparks** On: Sun Nov 09, 2008 1:25 pm

Hey devil505,
A couple of little saw cuts and a little chisel work and presto - uno sloped block. :lol:

I hope the addition i'm gonna put on the garage to hold more coal next year goes as fast. :roll:

JB

captcaper · By: **captcaper** On: Mon Nov 10, 2008 8:54 am

good idea. I've had 1 jam a week for the first 2 weeks of running this new Mark III. I bought it because of the grate system but never realized it can jam so easily.I've always owned a single piece grate that rocked side to side. No way would it jam. I've jammed the Mark III up both times were the fire will just drop down into the ash pan and also making the ash pan hard to get out or should I say it won't come out unless I dig out all the chunks binding it in first. What a mess to clean up not to mention having to restart the fire.
I realize the trick is to just shake short stokes and or wait until the coal chunks in the bottom burn to ash for a smoother shake. Easy to fall into the trap when it binds up and by going just alittle further it sometimes will unbind. Of course there is the point of no return to total wide open jam...
Practice makes perfect so they say.

Devil505 · By: **Devil505** On: Mon Nov 10, 2008 9:21 am

captcaper wrote:good idea. I've had 1 jam a week for the first 2 weeks of running this new Mark III.

Try the STOPS....they work! (either Spark's more elaborate system or just my blocks will work)

JB Sparks · By: **JB Sparks** On: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:05 pm

Ya devil, a 2-ba-4 is real elaborate. :lol:

Captcaper, Try making a poker that Greg L descibed, it works very well. You can if you like playing with the stove as i do just use the poker without using the shaker or use the shaker after you use the poker and it seems to work pretty well. i haven't dump my fire since i started using the poker.
JB

"Stops" For Harman Shaker Mechanisms?

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