Need some help fixing up/operating stove

i have this hand fed harmon (no idea what model) i was goin to replace it with a stoker but none are avaible untill next summer so i decided to keep this one, fix it and learn to use it. first question is can i replace the shaker grates, and if so how do i keep them from bending . next question do i use the manual draft or get one of those baromertic one ive read about on here? most improtant question how do i keep this thing goin. is there a thread about how to light and keep a fire goin, including when to shake, how much to shake, how much coal to add, when to add it , where to add it. im at a complete loss with this, ive had wood stoves before but neveer a coal, i tried to use it last winter but coul dnever keep it goin mor ethan a day. and another questionm what kind of coal do i get? heres a coupl epics of what i have.

Harman Mark III is the model. Grates are trashed. Try burning wood.
Where's Devil when we need him?

Beermonley,
You have a Harman mark III stove http://www.harmanstoves.com/callouts.asp?id=15 you will have to replace the grates. I'm guessing they are around $100.00 a piece. You have to be able to shake down the ash about every 12 hours or so to keep the fire going. You should get a baromertic damper.

Try doing a search on all the different questions you have and you will come up with lots of info. You have time to do some homework and you will become fairly knowledgeable rather quickly. Get some coal ASAP. Better to stock up now than be stuck later.

Yep Mark III.
So that is what warped grates look like.
Check to see if there are any broken welds or other gaps/warping inside the stove.
Put a light inside the stove and darken the room to check for split seams.
Would replace the fire bricks as they are inexpensive.

thanks fo rthe help so far. i will go to local harman place tomorrow if i get a chance and order new grates and bricks (some are already broken) now as far as the barometric vent is there a certain brand thats a good one to get? and i see on the harmon web site it can burn pea, nut and stove size coal, whats the difference (besides size) is pea easier to get goin and i never saw stove size before.

The Harman dealer may charge a premium for the grates. There are other people who sell replacement grates who may be less expensive.
Start with Nut it is relatively forgiving to the beginner mistakes. Try a few bags of each size once you get the hang of Nut.

The reason those grates are badly warped is that the ash pan was not emptied often enough.. a red hot fire can sit on the grates without harming or warping the grates. BUT if the ashes in the ash pan are deep enough to touch the bottom of the grates, then the cool air coming in from under the grates is blocked, there is not cooling air circulating over the bottom of the grates,and they overheat and sag..

So, keep the ash pan emptied every 12 hours or so, this will depend on the burn rate you need for your weather.. Once you figure out a routine you will be very happy with that stove..

Get rid of the manual had damper in the chimney flue pipe.. install a Fields Barometric damper, type RC in the flue pipe.. This will make keeping a fire burning for the whole season much easier.. Many coal berners take pride in starting the fire once for the whole season,, and it burns till they let it go out in the spring..

What is your chimney made of, how tall is it, and have you had it cleaned since you burn wood too??

Once you get your grates replaced, read about starting and maintaining the fire, there are many many threads about those subjects on the first few pages of the Hand Feed forum..

Hope this helps
Greg L.

Here are A few Places That you can buy grates For your stove compare Price To your Dealer See who is cheaper Also Look
At the Link For a baro RC 34 Or Model M Witch is Made for coal You should buy a Manometer Dwyer 25 Mark II To Set up
the baro correctly Your draft should be set at .04 to .05 look at there link aswell Also check the baffle plate to see if it is

warped aswell and get another one If it is warped bad that will increase or decrease the draft inside the stove and and will send more heat up the chimney and cut your burn time down take the plate and lay it down on a flat surface to see
how bad it is Then you can go from there if you need one or not good luck on getting it set up and Keep warm

http://www.stovepartsplus.com/Merchant5 ... ode=HARMAN

http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/4864/S ... uplex.html

http://www.hearthstove.com/catalog.html

http://fieldcontrols.com/draftcontrol.php

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/PDF_files/mark2_iom.pdf

I have nothing to add but don't give up on burning coal once you replace the grates. Great point by Greg! You don't want to warp those grates again! New firebrick will cost you very little money & I would definitely replace the door gaskets too. & buy good coal for it. (avoid Reading Coal) I'll bet it'll clean up real nice!
Good luck with it!
As far as operating it, there are many good threads on lighting & shaking down hand helds in general & Harmans in particular.

where is the baffle plate, and what does it look like?

The baffle plate is ~1/4" steel plate that is across the top of the inside of the firebox. There is a couple inches between the baffle plate and the top of the firebox. It is open at the front of the stove and channels the exhaust to the back of the stove to the flue pipe. Vacuum off the ash that is no doubt sitting on top of it.

ok i checked the baffle plate and it is slightly bent down at the front (by door) but i dont see how it comes out. can i just beat it back with BFH or possible heat it up with a cutting torch to bend it straight or should i just leave it alone?

Post some pictures of the baffle. Then we can give you some idea what to do. The baffle is welded in.

There is no harm done by the baffle plate having a sag in the front of it,, i'd leave it alone..

Greg L