Do I Need a Stainless Steel Liner for My Chimney?

 
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mmcoal
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Post by mmcoal » Sun. Feb. 19, 2012 12:15 pm

Thanks for the info and video. Being a mason, rebuilding the chimney isn't a big deal for me, but I want to be able to get by until I gather enough funds to rebuild the chimney plus giving me enough time to see how the insert works out also.


 
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Berlin
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Post by Berlin » Sun. Feb. 19, 2012 12:55 pm

If you're just looking to get by for a while, I'd just slam it in and see how it works for you. If it was an interior stack that was 3' higher than the peak and was 25' high it would probably work very well as is. with a larger flue size it will probably still work fine, but you may not have very strong draft when it gets warm outside.

 
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Post by jrn8265 » Fri. Feb. 24, 2012 6:49 am

I have a 8 year old 5" inch 316TI stainless steel liner.

I have been burning Anthracite coal now for 4 years, oil for 4 previous years.

As long as you have a good rain cap, no water leaks around the liner and clean out the fly ash throughout the liner with a brush and vacume once a year the liner will last many many years, perhaps 20!

In four years of burning coal my liner looks the same as it had 4 years ago.

 
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I'm On Fire
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Post by I'm On Fire » Sun. Jun. 03, 2012 8:27 pm

That video was awesome.

I always thought you had to cement the clay liner together. It'd be cool to do that to my chimney when the SS liner fails. If I need to do it. Which I doubt, I'd only need a new throat plate and that's it.

 
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Post by franco b » Wed. Jun. 06, 2012 9:08 pm

I'm On Fire wrote:I always thought you had to cement the clay liner together.
You do normally, but those clay sections had tongue and groove on the ends so they fit and aligned themselves for a tight fit in the joints.

 
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2001Sierra
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Post by 2001Sierra » Wed. Jun. 06, 2012 10:21 pm

I would skim the joints with refractory cement, just to be on the safe side. Butter the bottom end of the tile before lowering, or the the top of the one being lowered.

 
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Berlin
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Post by Berlin » Thu. Jun. 07, 2012 2:26 am

yup, just butter the bottom of the tile you will be sliding down with a very carefully applied, thick, (non-premixed) high temp mortar. if it has ship-lap joints (male/female ends) you don't want to butter it as much because you want it overlap.


 
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I'm On Fire
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Post by I'm On Fire » Mon. Jul. 02, 2012 3:38 pm

I'll be embarking on making my chimney taller...well one terracotta section taller at least in a few weeks. Only problem I foresee is that the top most terracotta flue pipe in my chimney has some slight water damage and is chipped at the top. When I ran the liner down the chimney I chipped what pieces were going to break apart away. But then again, it is at the top of the chimney so I can't see it making that huge of a difference if the last flue pipe section is messed up or not. When I put the new piece on I was going to cement it in place anyway. I'll take pics before anything is done anyway and post them here for analysis.

 
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Post by kstills » Mon. Aug. 06, 2012 10:57 am

Just to re-cap what I've been reading here, when burning coal an unlined masonry chimney should work fine, and the coal ash even if it gets wet will not rot out the mortar between the bricks.

This would be accurate?

 
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Berlin
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Post by Berlin » Mon. Aug. 06, 2012 7:25 pm

kstills wrote:Just to re-cap what I've been reading here, when burning coal an unlined masonry chimney should work fine, and the coal ash even if it gets wet will not rot out the mortar between the bricks.

This would be accurate?
No, it will, but it will take more than a lifetime to do it. As long as the flue gasses don't contain a lot of moisture (which they don't with coal) it is a VERY VERY slow process. Any flue gas venting system will deteriorate, stainless will do it in less than five years and masonry (lined or unlined) will do it in over one hundred, which do you want?

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Mon. Aug. 06, 2012 9:17 pm

I think Berlin was trying to say--YES, that would be accurate :clap: toothy

 
kstills
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Post by kstills » Tue. Aug. 07, 2012 2:02 pm

Berlin wrote:
kstills wrote:Just to re-cap what I've been reading here, when burning coal an unlined masonry chimney should work fine, and the coal ash even if it gets wet will not rot out the mortar between the bricks.

This would be accurate?
No, it will, but it will take more than a lifetime to do it. As long as the flue gasses don't contain a lot of moisture (which they don't with coal) it is a VERY VERY slow process. Any flue gas venting system will deteriorate, stainless will do it in less than five years and masonry (lined or unlined) will do it in over one hundred, which do you want?
Well, given that I have less then a lifetime left to burn coal.... :D

 
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nortcan
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Post by nortcan » Sat. Apr. 13, 2013 2:12 pm

Thanks for the video. Just would be nice to be able to dropt these liners in a SS 6" chiney.

 
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Post by lsayre » Sun. Dec. 01, 2013 12:02 pm

When I was at Lehman's Hardware in Kidron, OH a week or so ago they told me that they are not legally permitted to install any stove (coal or wood) into a tile lined chimney, and they would have to install a stainless steel liner into my chimney if I wanted them to do the install of a cookstove. This has me wondering about liner codes and regulations.

 
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Berlin
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Post by Berlin » Sun. Dec. 01, 2013 3:00 pm

Larry, they're flat-out lying to you. Find a business that's not completely full of *censored*.


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