Struggling With Oval/Round Liner Dilemma

 
speerstra
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Post by speerstra » Tue. Aug. 26, 2008 10:54 pm

Guys,
Need to line my chimney for my LL hearth. I want a liner since I have way too big a flue, 12x12, as well as a short chimney and I don't want any problems in fall or spring. Unfortunately I have a damper that is 5 5/8" wide. Any chance I can ovalize a 6" round liner kit enough to get it through the damper and then unovalize it enough to connect to the tee in the hearth? Too much of a hack job? Could a bad seal result?
I would just go to an oval setup but for several issues. It costs more and I have concerns about cross sectional area not equivalent to that of 6" round. Also, I have terra cotta tile and I don't see a terra cotta cap for oval kits.
Thanks,
Speerstra.


 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Tue. Aug. 26, 2008 11:10 pm

http://www.chimneylinerdepot.com/

Everything you need, call as they have more items than on the web site.
Specifically:
transition kit
6" round appliance adapter to 7" oval
section of oval
7" oval to 6" round liner

or

Grinder out the damper to 6.25" for 5" so the single piece of liner can go top to bottom.
Do not crush the liner.

I went with the grinder option.

Terracotta cap extra $55 but more secure.

 
speerstra
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Post by speerstra » Tue. Aug. 26, 2008 11:23 pm

Thanks. Good options. Did you seal your damper around the liner?

 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Wed. Aug. 27, 2008 12:03 am

The mason is still working up top.
The insert seals at the face of the fireplace.
Have a SS cap going over the chimney top, three flues, including the upgraded top for the liner. Water entry should not be an issue.
Insulated flue liner half inch thick.
Grind out the damper for clearance of 6" liner and insulation, 7.25" total.
Going to stuff some high temperature insulation in the damper area to cut down on air circulation but not sealed.

 
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Post by LsFarm » Wed. Aug. 27, 2008 10:31 am

You must seal the damper around the liner,,
You don't want uncontroled warm air from your house going up the chimney around the liner.
You don't want there to be any way for the coal fumes to come back into the house, it can reverse and come down the chimney space around the liner..

You can use sheet metal, and screw it in place, and caulk the gaps.. or some folks tightly pack the space around the liner with fiberglass insulation, either way you must seal the chimney from the house, so only the liner, hooked to the stove, is the path to the outdoors.

Don't forget to install several Carbon Monoxide detectors.. Digital ones are best.

Greg L

 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Wed. Aug. 27, 2008 11:18 am

The liner is sealed at the very top.
The insert seals at the face of the fireplace.
That is the top and bottom of the captured air space.
No air will infiltrate unless the captured air space has a leak.
Extra care taken to caulk the insert face, brick is not a smooth surface.
Hi-Temp insulation placed in damper throat to minimize thermal circulation.
Liner insulated with half inch High-temperature insulation blanket.
There will be thermal circulation in the flue because it is not backfilled and by its very nature conducive to thermal circulation.
Throat is filled with insulation, infiltration from air space in fire box area to flue is minimal.
Liner is single continuous run, no couplers, I ground out the damper for clearance.
The only way any flue gas is backing into the house will be when there is a hole in the liner or windows opened on both ends of the house with a northerly wind.
Detectors are installed in multiple locations.
Going to check things out with a smoke stick.

 
speerstra
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Post by speerstra » Wed. Aug. 27, 2008 2:05 pm

I was planning on adding a barometric damper to the LL hearth which sits directly in front of the fireplace. I assume for this to function I could not seal between the stove and and fireplace opening. In fact I would need some decent air flow into the fireplace for the baro damper to function. That being the case I should seal only at the flue damper and at the top cap. Correct?


 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Wed. Aug. 27, 2008 2:11 pm

Yes, good air to the barometric needed.
Barometric damper can go on the horizontal before you go up the flue.
Solid pipe. Tee for a clean out/ash pit. Solid pipe to flex adapter.

 
speerstra
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Post by speerstra » Wed. Aug. 27, 2008 2:47 pm

Ok. So for connections I go out the back of stove to a tee for barometric damper. Then to tee for cleanout and connection to flex pipe. If I buy a kit the only thing extra I need is baro damper and its tee. Appreciate the info...

 
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Post by gambler » Wed. Aug. 27, 2008 3:06 pm

If you have an ash dump in your fireplace you could use that to supply air to the baro.

 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Wed. Aug. 27, 2008 3:27 pm

Yes just add 12-18 inches with a cap to the bottom of the tee at the invert to vertical flex to catch the ashes and avoid pulling the beast out in the middle of the winter.
Good idea to buy a real tee instead of the strap on that comes with the barometric damper.
Find a good place to tap the manometer while you are at it.

 
speerstra
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Post by speerstra » Wed. Aug. 27, 2008 4:57 pm

All Good ideas. The stove outlet is only 1" above ground. Don't see how I could add 12-18" for fly ash to the tee.

 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Wed. Aug. 27, 2008 5:26 pm

Oh well looks like you will be doing some mid season ash removal!
If you put in an access port to suck the ashes it will make the chore easier.

 
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Post by speerstra » Wed. Aug. 27, 2008 7:40 pm

Access port? Gotta ask. I know the tees in the kits have a removable bottom for ash. I assume you are talking about something different? Actually wondering if I can use a kit at all since their tees look like they need a couple of inches.

 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Wed. Aug. 27, 2008 10:14 pm

Was thinking about a tee but have the leg point up with the cap on top so you would not have to disassemble the whole thing to get at the point where the ash piles up.
However if you have or know someone who does have metalworking skills.....
Tap the base of the vertical part with a 2" metal 'vacuum port' that runs to the front/side/basement so you just suck the fly ash out of the liner without moving the stove!


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